If you want cheap and durable, ppg has an industrial paint. Sprayable is around $60/gallon, but will take about 2 gallons to paint a car ( has no reducer just paint and hardener).... Now the good part about the paint, it's a very durable strong paint with a good gloss. Scratch resistant, graffiti resistant (you can typically wash and scrub off spray paint). The bad part... It's very strong paint meaning... When you spray it on and it lays out. It's on. If you wanna buff out dirt or a run... You can't, no buffing, and down the road if you decide to paint ontop of it you will kill some sand paper sanding it (its scratch resistant).
If its a true anti graffiti, if you ever have to repair, the whole panel has to be stripped. Otherwise the coating on top will peel off. What line of ppg industrial is it? I sell 3 of their industrial lines.
CAUTION.....cheap paint will result in "patina" way sooner than if you had used real expensive paint. So unless you want your hot rod to look like an old hot rod, be careful with your paint selection.
I'll have to look, I have a can of it. I had a customer tell me about it. He was having issues with people tagging his delivery vans. ***Went and looked at the can. It is Genesis GV... Sherwin Williams, not PPG... I bough it from my local PPG supplier.
Yea, if you repair that or any anti graffiti, the coating has to be completely removed. Not recommend for automotive. Great for bridges, transit systems etc. And that product is high $300 per gallon. Looks great and easy to spray and very neat stuff, I sell a little into the sign industry and I sell to concrete companies for the hopper, the concrete falls right off!
I think it's Alkyd enamel. Maybe Guru could explain the difference between an alkyd and an acrylic (short version for non chemists)
I just tried to answer the question and it looked like a application to purchase a home. I don't want to get to far off op question but I will do another technical article just on paint and enamel. But short answer most ALL topcoat paint is or contains enamel. 3 types are short, medium and long oil enamels. Most automotive is in short oil. "Oil based" and cheap tractor enamel is long oil. Your additives and pigments bring other things to the table. Then the type of oil can do certain things, the 2 main oils used are linseed and soy bean oil. I know this is probably not what you want as a answer, but I will do a in depth one similar to my "difference in primers" post.
I get it. Probably doesn't matter that much really. It's more about what works best for a particular application and why.
I would think that the 1st impression isn't where anybody would wish to cheap out. And make no mistake, the 1st impression ANY CAR gives is the color and finish. What attracts you to get a better look? From 50' away, see something in primer or rust, who really gives a shit unless your build is heading that way? See a flash of color, a mirror finish, a highlight from a metallic or pearl, you're going to get a better closer look at it. Some rare exceptions are those that are so bad you just can't look away, like a bad accident. You should but you can't and it stays in your head, but we hope it stays in the "...I'd never..." department. Good product isn't cheap, cheap product is seldom good. There's enough middle range product to please everyone, and the largest percentage of "our" cars won't sit in the parking lot getting cooked or marinated in salt and acid rain for 40+ hrs a week. I don't do "paint jobs" in my line of work. I restore cars to original (mainly what I do). That's more than an "Overhaulin" overnight mud n color job. Save up for good stuff and you can't go wrong. Put in the hours and it will almost always pay you back later. Listen to "Paint Guru". He offers more info than you can imagine to help one select VALUE over COST. Even if it's not his line he can help anyone here select properly. Good luck, and put up some damn pictures when you finish!!
Exactly!!. I do not believe in a one size fits all coating. Even on a car, there are different products I would prefer in certain areas, example lets say you plan on buffing the car and you want chemical resistance, I would spec acrylic urethane (fyi most clears are acrylic urethane). However under hood, I would spec Polyurethane due to its high resistance to chemicals, so brake fluid wouldn't even effect the coating. If you were doing a rat rod and wanted to go from sand blast to straight paint and just wanted inexpensive, I would say our medium oil or short oil enamel with our direct to metal reducer (roughly $35-$65 gal). If doing a chassis thats sandblasted, I would say a semi gloss epoxy topcoat, but if you just wanted to touch up and on a budget a short oil satin or gloss fast dry enamel I think our gloss black enamel is low $40's gal depending where you buy it and would encourage the use of a activator (just giving you basic ideas)
I don't see how anyone can paint with Omni acrylic enamel. That is like trying to paint a car with whitewash. Dupont's value-line Nason on the other hand paints quite well . I'd rather paint Valspar tractor enamel then Omni to get a decent finish.
Its easy to get enamels to flow and level, but I think 90% of a decent finish is how long it last. Attached is a anti hamb friendly car painted with our enamel. Looks great but wont last. Its a year old now, still has gloss but not the same as when first done. But the shop wanted a $50 gallon paint. Now a lot of people will disagree with me on the life of a enamel even though their theory goes against the laws of physics lol. But I think what I consider a deteriorated finish might still look good to 75% of the population.
Performance Coatings is a great single stage high-gloss paint. Very affordable and acts/sprays similar to PPG DelStar.
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