Projects Quain Stott Willys build

The door hinge mounts I made them adjustable you can see the slotted holes. If I had time I would have done these over I was not happy with them but it's one of those things that I could not get to look neat but unless you take the door off it won't be seen but should still be done better than this.

 

The hinge mounted not finished yet but to the point I could do some test fitting. The willys has a 3 degree angle built into the hinge because the body has 3 degree also. On most all cars the door opens flat the willys swings up hill it was tricky to get right but they open and close better than new when I finished. The body was built for hidden hinges so to get them where they needed to be you can see that I had to cut out the door jam. I rebuilt it later and it looks pretty good. Also you can see a little bit of the unfinished lip for the fire wall to bolt to.

 

This is the part of the hinge that bolts to the door. On an original willys the door jam is forward about a 1/2 inch more than this door was so the hinge was flat instead of cutting all that out like I had to do on the body I just made an offset in the hinge it worked out good.

 

Nice Job!
I have a friend that's building one just like it.

 

Quain I remember setting my hinges up, a tricky job on a glass car, I did exactly the same as you at 3 degrees and the open great, I noticed your doors still drop a bit when opened, mine do too, I've put in extra bracing around the hinges and got it down to about 1/4" but it's still there !!! Every willys I've come across seems to be the same, just not enough distance between the hinges.

What hinges did you use ??? They look like originals.


.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

Got any pics ???

.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

Not at this time Steve. It will take me some time to get some but when I do I will post them.
He's like you he's got a glass car.

 

I made them from scratch, but I cheated a little I had Gene Cromer's original's to copy. I pre loaded mine and that stopped them from dropping down but I don't know how long that will last.

 

This is the start of the bumper mounts

 

I just took and old drive shaft that I had laying around and cut the tubing out of it that I needed. If you remember the bushings that was welded in the rear part of the frame rails on page one of this build thread that's where the alum. bumper brackets bolt to the frame a weight bar will also go there if needed. Never mind the non era correct rear wheels, they were advertised as halibrands copies but they are not even close.

 

Another angle

 

Here's a close up of the slider for the leaf spring for 66galwag. I should have gotten a better pix but you can see that I just made a bracket on each side of the spring out of 1/8" 4130 plate (use 3/16" plate if you use mild steel) put 1/2" bolts on top and bottom.I have a piece of tubing in between the plate where the bolts go for a crush sleeve to tighten the bolts against and for strength. Leave just a little space in between the 2 bolts for the spring to slide and rotate.Also you can see that I drilled another hole so I can change the ride height if needed.If you are not going to add a panhard bar or something to locate the housing from side to side make the side brackets as close to the spring as possible but still be able to slide.

 

Another angle of the spring slider my camera flash messed up the pix sorry.

 

Hahaha, I preloaded mine too, they seem to ok so far

.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

This is a great looking project!

Thank you Quain for sharing all of this info and great pictures of your build!

Keep the info coming.

BTW, I am a long time fan of yours and consider you a Pro Mod legend along with the likes of Kuhlmann, Fuerer, Cannon, Hoover, Oddy, and Vandergriff.

 

Got me some true halibrand mag's for the rear today one of them has a bad place on the bead look's like it's been drug down the road but no problem to fix.

 

Thanks for the pics. Love this build thread and the way you detail all the material that you make the brackets and stuff out of.

 

What size are they?

 

15 x 10 wide chevy bolt pattern

 

Ohh they are nice !!! I had to repair one of my magnsium ARE's so shouldn't be a problem to bring them back.

 

What should I do to make them look like they should, I don't want to polish them I want to keep the mag look. The ones on the rear of the willys now don't belong to me I have them borrowed from Greg Porter. He said that he bead blasted them and then put some kind of oil on them. I would rather have them a little lighter color but don't know how to do it. I'm still looking for front's

 

I noticed the bead on the left wheel in the pic has a little damage, Mine was actually broken, It wouldn't take much to build it back up with a few TIG Magnesium rods and then reshape. mine was machined to bring everything back correct and was shiny but it soon went dark grey.
I have some stuff that i rub on and it gives that dark charcoal look, Will look at the tube and see what its called, let you know later.

Heres what mine needed









And redone

 

You have done an AMAZING job on your car!!

 

Use Gibbs....

www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com

 

The bead won't be any trouble to fix. Nice job you did on yours. I wonder how all these wheels got damaged so bad, but I guess it's a good thing or we couldn't afford to buy them.

 

Here is a thread I posted a while back on "restoring" magnesium wheels. I highly recommend shot peening instead of bead blasting to get them uniform. I etched them also.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ghlight=magnesium+wheel+restoration&showall=1

 

Thanks shakey that's exactly the look I was looking for

 

I've been slack on posting any pix's again, I've been getting the car that makes my living ready for Norwalk Ohio this weekend. This is how I did the wheelie bar. One of the things that makes a period correct gasser is the wheelie bar. It's one of the first things that you notice when you look at a gasser. Plus the old school wheelie bar makes it a lot harder to get down the track. I used 1 1/4" x.083 for the main strut. It slides inside a 1 3/8 .058 with a heavy bushing welded around the end for strength. It's all 4130.

 

The pieces slid together with the holes drilled for adjustment and the finished brackets, the angle cut at the top will weld to the chassis.