Projects Quain Stott Willys build

Thanks Don some parts look a little ruff but I was in a hurry. Total build time was 3 1/2 months took 5 1/2 but I had to stop for 2 months to do another project. And keep in mind this willys was a one man show. By the way I love your car you beat on that thing like i'm going to do mine I'm sure we will run into each other some where alone the way.

 

That's all for tonight hope this is not to boring for ya'll well I guess if it is you don't have to look LOL. Thanks ~Quain~

 

Quain good talking with ya car looks great you will have a blast in that puppy good luck with your race class keep out the people who want to reinvent the wheel and you will do good say Hi to Jim see ya soon
Trouble

 

I have the very same seats, Mine are Empi

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Certainly not boring for sure Quain

 

I'm enjoying this, don't stop!

 

More!!!! I need MORE!!!! Please continue on with the updates.

 

I'm on a little break from work right now I thought we would build some ladder bars. I'm going to be busy tonight so this is all I'm going to do today. I could not find a good built ladder bar that was at least 48" long all the ones I found were just to weak looking or had rubber bushings I guess they were for a street car or something. An old school gasser needs long bars to look right I think. In this pic the brackets are drawn out on 3/16 4130 plate.

 

Cut out on a band saw then all 4 are clamped together and ground down. I'm a freak for the brackets to all be the same.

 

While there are still clamped together I drill the holes. The holes are 5/8 but I drill one size smaller then use a 5/8 ream for a perfect fit don't need any slop in the bolt holes here. Then take them apart and sand the edges smooth

 

The only way to thread the tubing and keep it straight is on a lathe. I used 1" with a 156 wall 4130 tube it has 11/16 hole don't even have to drill it for a 3/4 fine thread tap.

 

This is the bottom bar I cheated a little here old school gasser didn't have this adjustment but it's hid under the car unless you were looking for it you cant see it. I had this turn buckle laying around the shop but you can do the same thing by welding (plug weld it don't weld around the end where the studs exits the tube it will brake) a stud in the end of the tube and threading a short peace of the 1" tube left and right.

 

Quain, Thanks for posting! I know you worked relentlessly this spring getting it ready for the track and the finished results are superb. Looking forward to more pics!

Oh yeah, I am so glad to hear you will be getting Gene's car back to the 1965 status. Let me know if you need or don't mind some help. I would love to pitch in and be a part of this, even if it was for just a few hours.

 

I bolted them together so they would be exactly the same I welded them as much as I could that way also. I added up rights all the way to the front of the bar because they were so long the uprights are 7/8 x .065 4130 I don't have a finished pic except on the car so that will be later.

 

You better be careful I might be calling there are a lot of rusty parts to work on.

 

I've got to stop for the day maybe we'll build a rear end housing tomorrow night.

 

x2.

 

cool, subscribed

 

Quain .... what process is used to determine the front mounting point of the ladder bar?

I always thought it was to be level to the ground, is this correct?

 

I really should be working instead of reading but..... subscribed! SUPER cool to watch this come together. peace

 

Agreed, but how do you pass tech without some type of head rest / support.

 

Count me in for watching this come together

 

Shakey I did and old school head rest mounted to the roll bar right behind my head I'll post some pic's later it looks cool.

 

The angle of the bottom bar depends on how low your rear bottom bolt is from center line of the rear end housing. Just think if the rear bottom bolt was only 2" off the ground and you ran the bar level the front of the bar would only be 2" off the ground. The hight of the front bolt is whats important. Just remember the lower and longer the front bolt the more the car will wheel stand. I'll try and do a post with more detail later.

 

Good job on the thread Quain! We always do a hot rod cruise up to Quain's shop right before Christmas. Always a good time with lots of cool stuff to see. If anybody is interested in going this year, just pm me here for the details.

 

I decided to go with leaf springs because that's what the willys came out with and most old racers just used what was there. A buddy of mine (Thanks Randall Gilliam) had these laying around behind his shop they were from a 67 camaro. I made new nylon bushing for each end with steel tubing for them to float on (Sorry no pix of the bushings I got slack on the pixs) I made the shackles from 1/8 4130 plate The front mount are .090 4130 plate.

 

The shackles

 

I spent a little money here I bought a new housing it's just to much trouble to dig through a junk yard then have to clean and cut of the old brackets then grind all that stuff down. The brace that I'm fitting in this pix started life as 2x3 x1/8 mild steel tubing. At this point the ladder bar brackets and spring mounts have already been lined up and tacked on. Note the housing ends are not welded on that's the last thing you do because the housing will warp from welding.

 

The finished brace

 

Housing ends tacked in place you can see that there is a jig in place it's a solid 1 1/4 bar that runs through the third member side carrier bearings ( I made bushings to center it up in there) The big 1 1/4 bar keeps the ends from warping when welded but you still have to be careful