Putting a Chrysler Industrial Hemi in a 52 Dodge truck

Nice pictures. Not sure what year that truck is, but I believe the first year for a V8 was in 1955. Probably a lot easier to get it in there than what I've been going through.

 

The truck in the pictures is a '57, so its possible it was equipped with a poly or hemi V8 from the factory. Regardless, it would probably only take an engine mount swap to add the hemi, even if it did originally come with a flathead 6.

Also, I don't see any stampings on the valve covers. I'd have to take a closer look, but that might be a Dodge hemi (270/315/325). Even the tall deck Dodge hemi's are smaller than the Chrysler hemi Dan used. Not a lot, but an inch or two makes a big difference.

Technically, the V8's were available in the '54 truck models, although it ended up being so late in the model year (August) that they basically came out in '55.

 

What about a clutch fan to go along w/that shroud? Like that battery box tailgater!!

 

Spent a lot of time this weekend checking things off the punchlist. Only a handful of things left before I can turn the key for the first time.
Punchlist still includes:
connect the throttle cable
get engine to TDC so I can line up dizzy and connect spark plug wires
fill fluids and buy a battery

As it sits tonight


Got the gas pedal mounted and modified the trans cover



Need to work out the lower radiator hose. I can't find anything at the auto parts stores that has the right shape with tight enough bends to work. I ordered up one of those flexible stainless hoses to see if I can make that work. Didn't want the 'bling' look, but I guess if it works, I can paint it flat black.



Anyone know of a thermostat housing with a 90 degree bend that would fit the lower outlet on the water pump? That might work. I know the Ford 5.0 motors used a 90 degree bend, but don't know the hole spacing.


With the first startup being so close, I'm a bit nervous to turn the key. Never did an engine break in and a freaked out that I might do it wrong.

 

You coulld always change it to a A/N set up or change the angle of the spiket coming off the radiator then you'd only need a hose with right angle eldow on one end.

PACO

 

Crank it up & don't let it idle for about 20 minutes. Fill the radiator?

 

Do I need to modulate the RPMs during the first 20 mins or just keep it over 2000?

Do I just turn the idle screw on the carb so it will stay at that RPM?

Is the purpose of staying over 2000 to keep oil pressure high enough during break-in?

 

The purpose of keeping it over 2000 rpm on start up is to keep the lifters spinning on the cam lobes and keep lots of splash lubrication of the cam happening. If the lifters do not spin right away, you will wipe lobes off the cam and ruin your whole day.

Just set the idle screw up to keep it that high and you can vary the RPM if you want, just don't let it drop below 2000.

 

Hard to tell from the pic, but if the inlet is turned down 90 will you have enough room for a sweep and be able to connect to the radiator? or is it going to be a real tight turn?
What is the vertical distance from the pump inlet centerline to the rad centerline?

2000 - 2500 rpm, min 20 min, steady speed. If you have a water/elec/oil issue that has to be dealt with then shut it off, make the repair, and start it back up.

.

 

Seems like the punch-list just keeps growing. I thought I'd be able to fire it up tomorrow, but all the little shit you have to get done is killing me.

For example: installed the throttle cable. I need about another inch of travel on the pedal to get WOT, so I'll have to mess around with that. Probably don't need to get that done to fire it up...but just one example of things I thought I was done with that need more work.

 

Tried to fire it up today. StatRted it, but couldnt get it to run right.
Found out my plug wires are bad. The distriutor ends dont make a good connection and one of the plug ends is bad. Going to order a new set and try again tuesday.

Please walk me through the process of setting initial timing.
Also, what is the right plug gap? Im at .32 now.

When it fired up, max rpm was 1500, then i got the backfire.

Heres a video. My friends reaction is priceless.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/53Dodge/LocalHemi/HemiFireUp.mp4

 

Nice try .... I guess that was your bud doing the get back shuffle .... he's luckey he wasn't leaning in to the carb area & didn't loose a eye brow or two!!

I'll be watching the next time.

PACO

 

Here's a picture of the truck I'm dropping this in.



.[/QUOTE]

excellent truck! um, you didn't change the wires when you installed the motor? make sure that your trans isn't rubbing on the floorboard. it looks too close. been there done that.

 

I found a set of hemi wires on ebay a while ago...shoulda just bought new ones from the get-go. Live n learn.

 

It was certainly a priceless reaction from your friend. Thank you for sharing the vid. Now get those wires installed! Hope to see a new vid soon. You know we're all watching you.......

 

IT LIVES!!!!!

Installed the new plug wires and after a couple of tries (with minor turns of the distributor to fine tune the timing) and it fired up and stayed running. Got it up to 2300 or so and let it run for the required time.

At idle, it sounds great too...but the camera ran out of memory before I got to that point. Once I get the timing set right, I'll get another short video posted.

No exhaust on the motor, so it sounds like an airplane engine.

Here's the required video...click the picture (couldn't figure out how to embed the video off photobucket).

 

Sounds sweet!

 

That's gotta make ya happy!!

PACO

 

Way to go, Dan! Congratulations!

 

Congrats! you've done a great job so far!

 

Thanks guys. Does feel good to get past that point...but it will feel better when it moves under its own power.

 

Great thread. Nice work getting to this point. Motor sounds good.

 

Excellent thread Dan. Truck's looking good and motor sounds great!

 

Dan,

Nice thread, and aa nice build...Best of luck with that very nice Mopar!

 

Spent some time today finishing up panels that block off the gaps around the new radiator.

My metal skills suck...but it felt good to get these done and have them come out looking ok. Won't win any awards, but they'll be behind the front grill and won't really be visible (and they should help keep the air flowing through the radiator instead of around it).

 

Seems to me your metal working skills are just fine. Looks real good.

 

Looks ok to me, Dan. Keep gnawing on that thing! Remember, it's just like eating an elephant. You have to do it one bite at a time!

 

Yeah, the pics on my screen look good!!

Keep us posted.

.

 

I agree, you got skills Man!

 

Thanks guys.

With Rock's help getting the last two holes drilled out in the steering arms, I got the disc brake conversion done.



Used the RustyHope.com (Charlie Akers) kit.

Last two things to get done before being roadworthy are the rear end/driveshaft swap and running the trans cooling lines.

Seeing light at the end of the tunnel finally.