A few of you have asked about how I grafted the 32 Ford header and windshield onto my A Vicky, so here's a brief explanation along with a few pictures to help illustrate the steps. I'm sure there's a thousand other ways to accomplish this, but this is how I did it. Preface: When I decided to build a hot rod, I was searching high and low for a 32 5W that I could afford. That's why my user name is DRuss32 – I was pretty sure I'd find one, but I digress. The more I looked for that elusive coupe, the more I became familiar with the details year to year on early 30s Ford cars. I discovered that in 30/31, Ford introduced the slant window. They had several of the features that I admired about 32s, like slanted and tapered A-pillars and flush fitting doors. Victorias, A-400s and some Fordors are of the slant window variety. I believe all slants were made by Murray, but Scootermcrad would disagree. FWIW, the body tag on my 31 Vicky says Murray Manufacturing Corporation. Anyway, since there was no slant window coupe in 30/31 (although that's an interesting idea for a possible future project) and I wanted only two doors, a Vicky was the obvious choice. And as an added bonus, I'd gain a back seat for the family. So I started looking and found one in Georgia. In my humble opinion, the slant window is a beautiful design, but the header panel above the windshield could use some work – it just doesn't flow. I've seen some guys run Model A visors on them – that cleans it up a little, but they still don't look quite right. I intended to change this detail even before I bought my body. So now on to the 32 header transplant. It turns out that the angle of the A-pillars and windshield on slant windows is nearly the same as a 32 5W or sedan, so that made this modification much easier. However, the width of the 32 header (and the windshield) is slightly narrower than the A Vicky's. The Vicky's A-pillars flare out slightly from the cowl, so with a mild chop of, say, 2-1/4 inches, they lined up nicely with the 32 header. I removed the brackets that bolt the cowl to the roof and cut the A-pillars 2-1/4 inches and then welded the brackets onto the chopped A-pillars. The Model A header was originally made up of a wooden block that was bolted to the front of a piece of angle iron that mounts onto the tops of the A-pillars with the brackets mentioned in the previous paragraph that are located on each end. There was a stamped sheet metal skin over the block of wood to finish it off. (BTW, that skin now resides on Scootermcrad's modified) The Model A windshield hinge was a part of the windshield frame and bolted to the header. The 32 header was different. It had a steel substructure, probably about 14 gauge, along with a few tack strips of wood to attach the top and headliner. The windshield hinges were bolted to the metal substructure. Since I saw no easy way to attach the 32 header's inner structure to the Vicky's roof wood, I decided to just use the skin off the 32 header in the same way it was done on the Vicky header originally. I drilled out all the spot welds on the 32 header and removed the rotten wood and inner structure. This made it much easier to hammer and dolly out the dents in the 32 skin. I then started to fit the skin onto the Vicky to check for clearance issues. I had to cut and grind away the front outer corners of the Vicky's roof wood, cut back a bit of the original roof sheet metal and I had to round the top front door corners. I also cut a big notch into the front of the Vicky's A-pillars to clear the curve in the 32 skin along with a relief cut to pinch them together slightly to match the width of the 32 A-pillars. Once the 32 header skin was fitting nicely, I took some rough measurements inside the car to draw up a pattern for the new wood header block. It would bolt to the back of the original piece of angle, but the top and front would be carved and shaped to fit and support the contours of the 32 skin and provide a place to nail the header skin on at the roof opening. It would also be the mounting point for the 32 windshield hinges – of course I still wanted the windshield to open and close. Since the rest of the wood in the car is red oak, I decided to make the new header from the same. To get the thickness I needed, and save on the cost of the wood, I glued together three 1x4 pieces and two 1x6 pieces. I then began the long process of shaping and fitting the two blocks. I have almost no woodworking tools, so I used my circular saw to remove the bigger chunks of material, and then used a combination of a block plane, a coarse wood rasp and a palm sander to work the header into it's final shape. After shaping the two individual pieces, I glued and screwed them together to form the new header block.