I know this is a common problem and its just that I miswired it, but I did as the directions say and whenever I put the key in the off position, it does nothing. I can even remove my battery fomr my car and itll still run. I made a little drawing of my current setup. If someone could point out to me whats wrong with it I would appreciate it. The alternator is a GM internally regulated alt. PN 7127m-12 on kragen if that matters at all. engine is a ford 302. The writing is a little hard to read, so bat. post goes to + battery, post labeled 1 goes to ignition switch on, and post number 2 goes to ignition switch constant power.
I had a problem with my 454 chevy one time. I had to pull the coil wire to kill it. The alt was bad ,amoung other things. What I found ,fter much hair pulling, was the hot wire connection on the starter was touching the ignition post on the starter. Kept it hot all the time. Just my 2 cents worth.
everything runs fine and If I pull either the wire labeled 1 or 2 it cuts off. Now that I wrote that maybe I mixed up posts on my ignition switch so that both are getting constant power and neither of them dont get power when the key is in the off position.
Wire # 2 is the VOLTAGE SENSING WIRE ..... easiest fix is to combine #1 wire and wire #2 together ON TERMINAL #1 ON THE ALTERNATOR ...... JERSEY SKIP
Start the engine, open the hood, turn off ignition. While engine continues to run ,pull wire ( 1 ) this is the exciter wire ,if engine stops go to Radio Shack and get a diode,thier # 276-1661, solder it inline on this wire with the stripe on the diode facing the alternator. your'e done.
Thanks for the input. Ill try the diode method first then Ill try connecting them to eachother. My local radioshack didnt have the part suprisingly, so Itll have to wait till manana.
An easier way is to put a small light bukb inline on the exciter wire. Works exactly the sane as an idiot light in a stock dash. I hve done quite a few this way with no trouble with run-on. jerry
I had the same problem until I hooked up an idiot light like Jerry suggested and it worked great. Same alternator installed on an aluminum AMC 195 I6. That idiot light is actually a functional, required item in the system.
It is? Shucks. I have the diodes now, but I also have light bulbs. should I just plop a blub in there and go? If so I should finish up on that gauge cluster I have to build. **edit** Could you also tell me how well this alternator worked, like what amp it put out. I went to kragen looking for a different one, but they didnt have it so the guy pulled this one up. Seemed pretty cheap at $45 with a $15 core.
The Jalopy Journal
