With the carburettor mounted that way there is a possibility that the forward main jet will become exposed during a run and cause a lean out condition on the front two cylinders. The Holley should really be fitted with the bowl facing forward so that fuel is driven back against the jets for drag racing.
Pants / Four, Thanks for the feed back. ya cant see it, but the block IS TAPERED, Going from the oval 2bbl, out to match the four port, I made an additional block that is open that can go in between intake and shown adapter,. I though about tapering the cloverleaf, but wasnt sure how far up the water jacket came, so i am making a clay mold to cast a cone to epoxy in. I dont plan on throwing my wallet at this project, I might shave the head and go up one click on the cam, thats it! this mostly an engineering exercise, (yea right).
All 4 cyliners are running to a common plenum now, and I only wish this thing would leave hard enough, or turn fast enough to expose the jets! Thanks for the vote of confidence! I'll be happy to bust 10.00 in the 1/8! Mostly i just want to cruise the pits with my ww1 skid lid and goggles on!
This is an interesting engine build to watch. Four Banger, how many ponies did your race engine produce?
Bob, our engine was right at 200 hp. It had an oval port head that had the port floors epoxied flat, and mated to the d port intake. Flowed like a mo-fo! It had Kieth Black hyperutectic pistons, and stock rods with arp bolts, stock crank, balanced. It has a high volume pump and a good oil pan. It used a Mallory Unilite distributer, and a Schoenfeld header with 1&5/8 primary tubes and a 3 inch collector. The Crane hydraulic roller was .480 lift and around 234 duration @ .050 as I recall, (my memory isn't what it once was) We ran the thing as close to 7500 rpm as we could gear it at a specific track, but I don't recall ever going over 7800. That thing was as reliable as tomorrow. Fantasy, don't worry about striking water on that intake. Just go down about 1 inch and blend the four holes toward the center. When you're done, it should look like four eggs laying with the narrow ends pointed toward the center, and there will still be a flat spot in the middle about the size of a dime, or slightly smaller. You can build up a little point in the center with epoxy, and blend it into the four holes. It will be beneficial to have about an inch of plenum area above that highest center point. Don't worry about not spending too much on the thing. The details get good results on these motors. Buy a cheap hydraulic cam with around .430 lift or thereabouts. With the stock valves and porting, you wont see much benefit to a larger cam. On the exhaust side, see if you can find a factory Ford Ranger header, and run a 2 1/2 inch pipe off the collector back about 3 feet. This will make a sweet combination. If you don't want to spring for an adjustable cam sproket, mill the head .085, and turn your cam sprocket around backward. That will bring the cam timing back to near zero. You'll be suprised how much snap this little guy will have! By the way, what are you thinking for a transmission??
WOW, did this thread run away., 200 hp at 1200 lbs is good for a 10.30 according to the MOROSO dream wheel!. @130mph! Trans.. well i got the c3 under the bench, its fesh, but i want to put a glide behind it with one of those hydro clutch external dumps you guys use on the chevy's. looks like the adapter for ford 4cyl/chevy is gonna be another home made piece, My bud has an extra chevy engine plate from his scatter shield set up, maybe a few holes and wallah.?? If not, i'll just shoot a trans-go kit in the c3, We scored a ford 8 inch at the SPOT last nite.
Personaly, I'd use the C-3 for a couple reasons. First, it will bolt right up to your engine, and you already have a good one. Also, it is much more compact around the bell housing area. Second, A buddy of mine decided to use a powerglide in his Pro Four car, behind his twin cam Nissan engine. He eliminated the converter in favor of the direct drive and pump valve set up you previously mentioned. The combination of his lack of flywheel torque effect, and the extra power it took to turn the glides pump, just KILLED his low end snap.....the car was a TURD off the corners, and he had quite a bit of power, too. When when you eliminate the torque converter, and use a pump valve, two things happen. First, with just a flex plate you lose your bottom end torque. Second, the valve that vents off the pump pressure is very touchy. Moving the car from a dead stop becomes something like shifting into second or third gear in a manual box, and trying to take off at an idle. It's jerky, and very hard on the clutch packs. This works okay when you're talking about a 600 horsepower V-8 in a 2900 pound Late Model Sportsman car, but it's gonna SUCK when you only have a little four banger with maybe 150 pounds of torque. These valves usualy are so touchy that I think 9 times out of ten, you would red light just trying to stage. The little C-3 is by far your best bet if you must run an automatic, but you'll need a very loose torque converter, and some low rear gears to get off the line. Both require spending more money....a sad reality of racing. Given my druthers, I'd druther use a Mustang or Ranger four speed, with the heaviest flywheel I could find. If you want an automatic, use the little C-3. Just remember that with a little motor, rpms are your friend!
The Voice of experience wins again, the c3 came with the engine, and yea its is VERY compact! The 8 inch rear thats coming already has a set of 4.? somethings in it. scored a pair of knarly cragar SS 14's last night. FREEBIE!, gonna bead them and redo in flat zinc and bar b que black for a torque thrust look!
I gotta tell you, thinking about doing more with less has always been one of my favorite things. I made the decision to finish up my Morris Minor engine swap (Toyota 3TC Hemi and 5 speed and 3.70 rear end into my 67 Morrie Convertible) before I start on my HA/GR. But every day I look at the west wall of my garage, at all those parts I have waiting.....and my ADD starts kicking in again. I'm just foaming at the mouth to get started on my "Time Machine". I figure about two more good weeks, and Mo's heart transplant will be finished, and the fecial material is gonna hit the rotating oscillator!!! And like yourself, my deal will be a wee bit different from the rest, although it is not the drive train, but rather the chassis that will be odd!
HA talk about distracted, i have an L88, and an LS-6 under the bench, and a 22 year old son, the work in progress chevelle got totaled, and i lost interest in building another streeter, although the streeter was to keep me away from the track, talk about full circle. He did 8 years in Jr. Dragster, then 3 years in pro et with my SBC S-10. sold the S-10 for the chevelle, well.. round we go.. For the chassis, i am ordering the t-bucket chassis from spirit set up with mounts for BBC and th400, ya know just in case! contingency plan and what not.
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