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Technical Proper way to store used carberators

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Zuber, Jan 1, 2014.

  1. Zuber
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 4

    from Poconos

    I picked up a WCFB 2x4 setup off a good running motor for my restoration. Removed from motor about 6 weeks ago. The problem is I won't be ready to put the motor back in for at least a year. I would like to store them and not have to rebuild them when I'm ready to use them. I drained the gas but was wondering if anyone had suggestions on how to store them so they stay good.

  2. Shooting WD-40 down the breather tubes and the main body helps.
  3. big M
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 709

    big M

    I've poured auto trans fluid into the float bowl, sloshed it around a bit, and sealed the carb in a plastic bag, as with any lubricant, it will attract dust and dirt.

  4. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,625


    Pour in some fuel stabilizer to keep gaskets and such hydrated then seal them in a good zip lock bag.


  5. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856


    High and dry. Keep them off the garage floor.
  6. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    Member Emeritus

    If it's for a SBC, just send the setup to me, and I'll take the worry off your mind. If it's for anything else, other than a SBC, I can't really help you. I have THREE SBC dual 4 setups, and they're all just sitting on a shelf, wrapped up in plastic bags, waiting their turn to be rebuilt and used. You should probably rebuild the carburetors if they're going to sit for a year or more. Butch/56sedandelivery.
  7. partsdawg
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 3,031

    from Minnesota

    If they have not been rebuilt with components that will handle today's crap gas then bag them and wait until you can use them to rebuild

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  8. trbomax
    Joined: Apr 19, 2012
    Posts: 289


    I would spray them down with amsoil metal protecter, 3 in 1 spray oil,or even fogging oil.Double bag then,getting as much air out as possible,put them in the house in a closet where the temp is stabil.Your biggest challenge here is to protect the plateing on the steel parts and the pot metal finish on the castings. wd-40 would not be a consideration as it will not provide a moisture barrier. Ive stored some holly 3 bbls since the mid 70's this way and they look brand new.
  9. I drain them, clean them up with carb cleaner. Then it goes into a plastic bag and back into the carb box (if I have it). If it sits for more than 6 months, I take it apart and at least put fresh gaskets into it.

    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,422


    After sitting a year no matter how it is stored rebuild the carbs. If for no other reason than you don't know how long the carbs were in use. This is just cheap insurance that the carbs will work O.K. when you put the set up on your engine
  11. PushnFords
    Joined: Dec 2, 2011
    Posts: 52


    Fuel stabilizer will only keep gas good for 60-90 days. I'd dry them out as good as you can & plan on probably putting a kit in them anyway.
  12. Once you get the old fuel out your biggest concern is gasket shrinkage. The WD-40 deal already mentioned is a good idea or soaking them down in light oil (like 3 in 1) is actually a better idea, most aerosol lubricants will evaporate leaving you with no protection. I have even gone as far as to fill the float bowls with oil on a long term storage.
  13. Good idea for a Thread. Most of us have ran across this problem, or suffered the consequences, from not doing it.

    In my 1968 Cadillac factory service manual, it gives step by step instructions, for storing your entire brand new DeVille. Says to "remove and drain carburetor and store in plastic bag, in safe climate controlled room." How cool is that??

    I can imagine some chauffer doing this and giving that big Fleetwood a good coat of wax and bumper cosmoline, then covering it up, with a bunch of cotton sheets. Stashed away, in some NYC parking garage, while the owner flies to Miami, for the winter. HA!

    Will oil screw up the accelerator pump???

  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,856


    The old accelerator pumps were made of leather, and you were supposed to oil them before installing. Oil will probably be OK on the neoprene pumps too....

    Drain the gas out of it, put it on a shelf, and see how it works when you finally get around to using it. I've had decent luck doing that.
  15. carbking
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,161


    I don't want this post to sound like a commercial since I sell rebuilding kits; however:

    I have had ZERO luck storing carburetors using modern fuel, and then reusing the carb without rebuilding.

    So far, I have tried:

    (1) Draining the fuel and running the engine until it dies (seems to work second best).
    (2) Filling the fuel tank
    (3) Adding any of the myriad of fuel condition/stabilizers


    (4) I finally gave up, and start my weed-eaters, lawn-mowers, tillers, etc., etc., etc. at least once a month, even in the winter; and yes, this works the best. What an absolute pain!

    With either (2) or (3) above, it basically is rebuild the carb every time I go to use it, if it sits without use over the winter. With (1) above, its hit or miss whether I can get by without the rebuild. (4) works!

  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,856


    I'll vouch for frequent use of the engine to prolong carb life....
  17. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,331


    I use plastic 5 gal buckets that have lids. Put the parts in and cover with diesel fuel and put the lid on.
  18. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,358


    I wouldn't store the carb. I'd find a guy driving cross country and loan it to him to "test" it for you. Just be sure to get a deposit from him......

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