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Projects Proper '32 Pickup build thread??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pkhammer, Nov 24, 2018.

  1. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    So, the fine folks at Wilcap responded quickly saying that some of the mid fifties Cadillac engines had an odd bolt spacing on the crank flange and apparently I have one! I was sent a return label to ship back the spacer and flywheel and was told I'd soon receive the correct parts. I like that kind of customer service!
    In 10 days or so I had a new spacer and flywheel that looked to have correct bolt hole spacing but still no hole for the crank pin!:mad: I emailed Wilcap and they said to just remove the pin. After pondering that for a while I decided that I didn't want to disassemble the engine in order to press out the pin and also wondered if it'd affect the balance? I took some careful measurements and took the spacer to the machine shop and had a blind hole bored for the pin. Now everything fits perfect!
    The instructions say that the adapter plate to flywheel face should measure between 3/4"-7/8" and it is spot on! Yay! 102_1548.JPG 102_1549.JPG 102_1551.JPG
     
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  2. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    The kit came with studs which I like to fit the transmission. Time to get this sucker mocked up! 102_1550.JPG 102_1552.JPG 102_1553.JPG
     
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  3. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    I went ahead and bolted on the Mopar mini starter to check the fit to the adapter and the chassis once the engine was in place. Picked up the engine and set it into place to find the correct position. Once bolted up to the trans (fit perfect!) I moved everything forward to get the desired radiator to fan clearance and saw trouble right away. With the carb surface level the fan actually hit the lower radiator hose outlet and there would be no possibility I could plumb up the auto trans lines. I picked up the engine and now have about 5/8" from fan tip to radiator outlet but trans cooler ports are still blocked not to mention the carb surface is half bubble off level. :mad: I raised the tail of the trans as much as possible (about 1/2") and that helped some but I think the stock fan needs to go away and go electric. The stock fan just sits too low on the radiator. 102_1554.JPG 102_1558.JPG 102_1554.JPG 102_1558.JPG 102_1559.JPG 102_1560.JPG 102_1561.JPG
     
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  4. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    Very pleased with the way the Caddy engine fits this chassis. It looks like using the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds there will be adequate clearance to the hood sides. 102_1562.JPG 102_1563.JPG 102_1564.JPG
     
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  5. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    Oh, got the wheels painted too. Cadillac blue with '48 Ford caps. 102_1555.JPG 102_1557.JPG
     
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  6. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,210

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    Love the color and wheel combo. Really nice build.
     
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  7. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 29,116

    loudbang
    Member

    Good choice on the wheel color and caps.
     
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  8. ..why not run your trans cooler along side the trans on the frame rail, easier and they work great there in my experience...
     
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  9. Or use 90 degree fittings at the radiator....
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2019
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  10. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    That's an option for sure. I was just expecting to use the built it cooler in the radiator.
    Anybody have any good arguments on mechanical vs. electric fan?
     
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  11. 1 Electric looks out of place. 2 Everything I've used electric (fans and fuel pumps) got replaced by mechanical and has out performed in duty and longevity.
     
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  12. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,247

    nunattax
    Member

    Anybody have any good arguments on mechanical vs. electric fan?

    ELECTRIC.wins for me compact and powerfull only cools when you need it important in cooler climates.buying quality electrical products like SPAL should be reliable and last. slim black fan mounted on a black rad is hardly noticed plus if you mount it high up on the rad you can cool the hottest water.mech fan in the photo looks to be very low on the rad[​IMG]
     
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  13. ^^^^^
    Another issue for me going electric. "Room". Yes there are slim units, but when not modifying firewalls or stretch nose isn't an option. Mechanical will take up less space.
     
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  14. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    Yes nunattax, although the stock fan is large (18"), it really only covers the bottom 2/3 of the radiator which is a concern. For this rod I was hoping to use the mechanical however to get the engine as far forward as possible as Johnny Gee points out.
    If using the stock fan I have had folks suggest to set the blades anywhere from 3/8" -1" from the radiator core. right now I'm at about 3/4".
     
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  15. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,628

    thirtytwo
    Member

    Great project , would you happen to have an extra firewall to sell?
     
  16. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    Thanks! At some point yes, probably. I need to get a little further along however before I let my "spare" go.
     
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  17. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,456

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  18. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 516

    pkhammer
    Member

    Yes, it's been over a year and there has been progress but not nearly as much as I'd like. Sound familiar? I have made much progress on the '64 falcon and it will soon be back on the road hopefully. Anyway, back to the truck!
    It took 8 months for the back-ordered main bearings for the Caddy 331 to come in! Once everything was mocked up and looked good the motor mounts were welded in and the engine and trans now rests comfortably in the chassis. I installed the 3.70 Posi rear diff and set the cab and bed up on the chassis. Next on thre to-do list is figuring out exact;y where the cab/body mount holes go. The frame is '32 Brookeville with Model A front crossmember. The cab is '33 which has different mounts than a '32 because of the deeper firewall. What I'm trying to figure out now is what is the best way to figure out exactly where everything goes. It wouldn't be as important if I was planning to go fenderless but I plan to to run full fenders and full hood. The frame was ordered with NO mounting holes because I knew they wouldn't be right for a '33 cab. anyway. 102_4103.JPG 102_4104.JPG 102_4105.JPG 102_4107.JPG 102_4108.JPG 102_4109.JPG
     
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  19. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 2,215

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Man I like your truck. I’m building a ‘33 too but on a ‘33 frame and with a Nailhead Buick and TH400. I did what you’ve done, mount the radiator and grille and work back from there with the fan 3/4” from the radiator. There are quite a few GM fans of different pitch and diameter. I bought a few at the swap meets so I’d have some to experiment with. You can always elongate or redrill the fan mounting holes to fit the Cad water pump. I hate the look and sound of an old hot rod with an electric fan. And I like to see a chrome mechanical fan spinning behind the radiator.
    I removed my ‘33 firewall and moved the whole thing back 2” and welded it back in. Looks stock but has 2” more engine room without a big recess. Like you I’m working multiple projects simultaneously so progress is sort of on and off but it’s moving forward.
    Keep up the good work.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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