Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Proper '32 Pickup build thread??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pkhammer, Nov 24, 2018.

  1. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 11,352

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    I've made that same mistake more than once!
    What I always heard when I asked why haven't you done anything on my engine yet was................"you said you weren't in a hurry".
    Neat truck you're building.
     
  2. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    I didn't leave it quite that open ended. I told him I'd like to get the block back for mockup purposes soon after the holidays. I also told him I'd like to have the engine complete sometime next spring but of course that will depend on how long I have it installing mounts in the chassis. :rolleyes:
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 578

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just a suggestion. Looking at the pics in post # 13, specifically the chain on the tail gate. If you haven't already thought of it, you might want to cover that chain with fabric or a soft rubber hose to keep it from beating the heck out of you finished paint. Just speaking from experience.
     
    pkhammer and loudbang like this.
  4. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,128

    VA HAMB
    Member

    I'll be watching. If you're ever near Shenandoah stop by!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  5. hotrod_tommy
    Joined: Jan 2, 2008
    Posts: 370

    hotrod_tommy
    Member

    I second the taller gear. I have a 283 + .060 with TH350, gear is (I think) 3.06...) in my '34 truck, and have made a few cross-country trips - REALLY glad I don't have shorter gear. Really ringing its neck at 75-80+ (KS, OK, TX, UT roads). Other than in the steepest mountains, I'd want taller gear - better highway cruising. If it's just a town cruiser, the 4.11 will be fun, but may grind at ya after a while...
    Also I wish that I had punched more louvers in the visor, coz that sucker really grabs a lot of wind, pounds the cab at speed. The louvers in the corners helped some, but needs more.
    How long is that Caddy? I had to move back the firewall for this SBC, and foot room is cramped, even for stubby little me. Seat and pedals will be critical for comfort.
    Sure do like your project! It'll be pretty with that '32 stuff under it. '32 frame-fenders about as pretty as a bottom end can get.
    Here's my driver:
    SpdWk70P- 305.JPG
     
    billyt, nunattax, waxhead and 3 others like this.
  6. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    Nice looking truck hotrod Tommy! After doing some careful measuring it seems that the Caddy is more compact (shorter) than most people think. It's about 1 1/4" longer than the short water pump sbc.
    As for the final gear ratio, keep in mind the overdrive makes a HUGE difference. Your th350 has a 1:1 high gear, but the overdrive trannys are .7:1. That's a 30% reduction in rpm. After running some calcs I've settled on 3:70 ring and pinion. At 70 mph with my rear tire size the engine will be slumbering along at about 2,000 rpm which is perfect. With the same setup and a th350 the engine would be spinning 2,900! Big difference. I wouldn't want it spinning much slower or it'd be lugging the engine at slower speeds.
     
    loudbang and pprather like this.
  7. cederholm
    Joined: May 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,508

    cederholm
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Cool project! Looking forward to your progress.

    ~ Carl
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. hotrod_tommy
    Joined: Jan 2, 2008
    Posts: 370

    hotrod_tommy
    Member

    AH, I missed the OD part... yah, it REALLY helps. Had one in a couple cars in past.
    If I switch my pkup to a 9" rear, I'll go with shorter gear, like 3.70, and add the 700R4.
     
    nunattax, loudbang and pkhammer like this.
  9. hotrod_tommy
    Joined: Jan 2, 2008
    Posts: 370

    hotrod_tommy
    Member

    PK - I'm 5'5" and it is cramped for my legs - specially evil on those long cross-country trips.
    If you are fenderless, would be much easier/not so noticeable to stretch that hood-engine space and keep more foot room. JUST 4-6" would make a WORLD of difference for leg comfort. Now'd be the time for it, before build is farther along?
    I have seriously considered stretching mine if I keep it, (and chopping the top) and just add to the running board front and move fenders fwd with hood. I kinda like my 'orig' shop truck look, though, so hoping my coupe will fulfill that need... Truck redo is now 3rd or 4th on the 'project' list, however, so... may never see this happen.
    This long-hood '34 sedan was at The Nugget show, Speed Week this summer... Just for visual reference point.

    kSpdWk70SD- 003.JPG
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,348

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    Looking forwards to seeing this one progess. It's almost the exact build i originally planned for mine. I ended up with a freshly rebuilt sbc for basically free so i sold off the caddy/200 combo to fund other bits. In love cad power but they're spendy to build.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    loudbang likes this.
  11. wow!! I would think the drivers door would be worth more than the $200 purchase price
     
    loudbang likes this.
  12. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    That cab is rusty, rough, and thin. I suppose the doors could be saved but somebody would need them awful bad!
    I am going to run full fenders so I'll just hafta see how much I'll need to cut the firewall. Hopefully I'll be able to keep it to a minimum.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  13. JimmyD3234
    Joined: Dec 3, 2015
    Posts: 498

    JimmyD3234
    Member
    from PA

    KOOL good luck with it :cool: :cool:
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    Got my 331 Caddy parts back today. Jerry's Engines cooked, cleaned, magnafluxed, and measured the components. Bores will clean up at .030" and crank and rod journals need .010" under. Had one broken stud in the head (exhaust manifold) that had to be extracted and a helicoil put in. No cracks or other damage found.
    Still need to mock up my engine and tranny mounts so I guess I'll need to pretty much stick it all back together, at least the crank, balancer and crank pulley to ensure clearance at the crossmember, the heads, water pump and fan to check clearance to the radiator and the intake to get the carb base level. should put the pan on too.
    I hate to stick it all back together at this point but I'd rather do it now before components go back for machining. 102_1122.JPG 102_1123.JPG 102_1124.JPG
     
    40FORDPU, mkebaird, LAROKE and 2 others like this.
  15. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    Spent the last two months saving nickels and gathering needed parts. Too cold and too big a Wuss to spend much time in the shop. Also have a '64 Falcon I'm trying to get put back together after new paint.
    Stuck the 331 Cad back together temporarily and purchased motor and trans mounts plus engine to trans adapter. Will hopefully have time to get all that mocked up into the chassis soon. 102_1461.JPG 102_1462.JPG 102_1468.JPG
     
    loudbang likes this.
  16. Pgaines
    Joined: Dec 16, 2013
    Posts: 17

    Pgaines
    Member

    Thank you for the updates. I’m excited to see the progression.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    loudbang likes this.
  17. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    So a friend just called because he knows that I'm getting ready to build a 331 Cad. He just bought a wrecked '62 for parts and the story is the previous owner had the engine rebuilt and drove the car for two weeks before it was wrecked. Wanted to know if I wanted the engine and trans for $500. Well DUH!!!!
     
    loudbang and pprather like this.
  18. k32t
    Joined: Jan 2, 2011
    Posts: 272

    k32t
    Member
    from Hog town

    moved the firewall back 2" on mine ford in a ford
     

    Attached Files:

    sidevalve8ba, pkhammer and loudbang like this.
  19. Moved the firewall back 2" man there ain't a whole lotta room in these pickups, I'm 6'4" and I was cramped. HRP
     
  20. porknbeaner
    Joined: Sep 12, 2003
    Posts: 40,902

    porknbeaner
    Member

    I may criticize all your choices. not that I am exceptionally critical or one who does everything perfect. But I may anyway. :rolleyes: :D :D :D

    Just post it and don't worry about it. Most of us like a pickup and especially and early Ford pickup, and those who don't have britches to get glad in just like the ones they got mad in. ;)
     
    loudbang and pkhammer like this.
  21. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    55 and sunny today and even though I'm dealing with a gout flare-up I had to hobble down to the shop. I clamped the tranny mount to the frame approximately 2" back from where I measured it'll end up, put the rubber mount on the trans and set it into place with my hoist. Got some blocking under the pan to support the front of the trans. Next I took a couple of 1/4" thick pieces of styrofoam and a piece of cardboard and taped/shrunk wrapped it to the radiator/grille shell for protection of a brand new Walker radiator and to give me proper spacing to the fan. That'll get the fan bolts/blades 5/8" off the radiator. 102_1484.JPG 102_1485.JPG
     
    loudbang likes this.
  22. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    Next I got the Wilcap adapter out of the box and I'm old enough now to actually take time to read the instructions. Found out I needed to push the pressed in alignment pins in the back of the block forward to where only 3/8" maximum protrudes from the block bellhousing surface. Hmmmm.... I got out my little propane torch and heated up the area of the block round each pin until nice and warm then took my heavy brass hammer and tap-tap-tapped on the pins and lo and behold they tapped right back easily! The aluminum adapter fit well but had a little "rock" to it so I did a little flat file work at a slightly high spot. Presto! Plate set nice and flat to the block. Proceeded to bolt up the adapter with the supplied hardware and everything looked great. So even though it might not be necessary to attach the flywheel for mockup purposes I wanted to get it and the starter on to check the gear mesh. That's when I ran into the problem. The crank spacer has the six bolt holes to fit to the crank but no hole for the alignment pin. The instructions to not mention anything about that! Soooooo...... Do I remove the pin or drill the hole for the pin? Thoughts? 102_1480.JPG 102_1481.JPG 102_1482.JPG 102_1483.JPG
     
    loudbang likes this.
  23. King ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,152

    King ford
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from 08302

    I'd drill a hole in the adapter, if you remove the pin it will effect the balance of the engine....the only question is how much but why chance it?....COOL BUILD...I am a true blue FORD guy but the other than SBC GM stuff is pretty cool!
     
    loudbang and pkhammer like this.
  24. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 815

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    Really nice build, love the old trucks. Hotrod Tommy has a sweet looking truck, that has the perfect look.
     
    loudbang and pkhammer like this.
  25. 270bob
    Joined: Mar 26, 2014
    Posts: 45

    270bob

    In my opion I would drill the hole. The drive pin is crucial in aiding the bolts to stay tight from the engine harmonics, hence the name "drive pin".
     
    loudbang and pkhammer like this.
  26. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    It seems like Wilcap would've put it in but I'm with you guys. I'll put in the hole for the pin.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  27. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    Well after some careful measuring I have a bigger problem than just a missing hole. The spacer supplied by Wilcap and the flywheel have an evenly spaced six bolt pattern. The bolt pattern in the crankshaft flange is NOT evenly spaced so neither the spacer nor the flywheel will bolt to my crank. CRAP!!!
     
  28. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,129

    pprather
    Member

    That's why there is an alignment pin in the crank, to make it easier to find the place where the bolt holes align. Also prevents putting the flywheel/flex plate on backwards.

    Phil
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2019
  29. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 315

    pkhammer
    Member

    I'll be calling Wilcap tomorrow and see what they have to say.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.