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Projects Proper '32 Pickup build thread??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pkhammer, Nov 24, 2018.

  1. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    So I've had this desire for a long time to do an early 30's pickup. I've asked questions on this forum and have gotten some excellent advice, however I'm not certain that my build would be proper for this forum or even interesting to the good folks that frequent this site.
    I say that because although I enjoy turning wrenches and spending time in the garage I am not a great body man, fabricator or mechanic so a lot of this build is going to be more like the assembly of aftermarket parts. I have a great deal of respect for those of you who can make something from nothing but I'm not that guy. What I have done is a lot of reading, attending events, asking questions, and making up my mind what I really want. I sold my '42 pickup, saved some cash, and may even sell my '64 Falcon (2 dr hardtop 260 4-spd) to finance this project 'cause it ain't gonna be cheap. Here's the plan:
    -'32 Ford Pickup (already bought a nice '33 cab)
    -Brookville '32 chassis
    -9" Ford rear, 31 spline posi drum brakes
    -Dropped I-beam front axle, 4 bars, vega box, disc brakes
    -Brookville pickup builders kit (bed, fenders, running boards, grille shell, etc.)
    -331 Cadillac engine (I love the early, not often seen mills)
    -200 or 700R4 trans (all my previous rides have had 3 pedals, ready for an auto)
    -Steelies, caps, and radial tires (this is going to get driven-a lot)
    -A/C (I want comfort in my old age)
    -Matte black paint

    So there's the plan. I know many of you will criticize some of my choices but hey, it's my ride and it's what I want. So, back to the original question; is this a proper build for this forum and would anybody other than me find it interesting?
     
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  2. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 9,934

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    To answer your question yes it is a proper build.
    Post away! And good luck.
     
    Randall, pkhammer and loudbang like this.

  3. You are in the right place. Your last paragraph sounds like you don't want constructive suggestions, I am not sure that is a good idea.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2018
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  4. B Bay Barn
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 363

    B Bay Barn
    Member

    Love the 331, post away.
     
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  5. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    I didn't mean to make it sound like I didn't want constructive suggestions, or criticisms for that matter. I welcome both. I just know there are those, say for instance, that will only run bias ply tires. I have ran both bias and radial on my '57 and '60 Ford pickups and even though bias ply tires have "the look" appropriate for an early hot rod, I prefer radials. Same with the manual vs. automatic trans debate. I like both, but I'm going auto on this build.
     
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  6. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 10,229

    AHotRod
    Member

    I'll follow along as long as it is a Hot Rod :)
     
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  7. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    It'll be a Hot Rod, I promise! Just don't expect any skilled home fabrication like we see in other threads.
    HotRodPrimer, if you're lurking around please post a pic of your '32, that's the look I'm going for. Not trying to be a copy cat, but that truck is just about spot on what I want.
    I started with purchasing this very nice '33 cab from Gene's Hot Rot Parts in Knoxville, Tn. It's 99% rust free. The doors were a little beat up so they are at my buddies shop being re-skinned from the belt line down. The gray '32 dash came with it. It's pretty pitted so I picked up the better '32 dash and the '33-'34 at Hershey. Not sure which I'll end up using. 102_0833.JPG
     
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  8. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Grabbed this beater '34 cab for $200 to scavenge a few parts off of. Need a couple of door hinges and a the cowl vent handle and hinge. windshield frame, window mechanisms, rear window frame, and the firewall is solid. Roof could maybe be saved. 102_0831.JPG 102_0832.JPG
     
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  9. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    So I sold off my '42, much to the chagrin of my wife, but I had a plan. Called my friends at Brookville Roadster and ordered a '32 chassis complete with 9" rear end, dropped front axle, suspension, vega cross steer setup and brakes installed and plumbed. I had them leave off the motor mounts (I am skilled enough to tackle that) since they only do sbc, sbf and flathead mounts I think, not 331 Cad. I also ordered their '32 pickup full fender "kit" which comes complete with custom shortened bed, fenders, running boards, hood, grille shell, radiator apron, frame horn covers, and '32 passenger car gas tank. The bed comes from them with hidden latches but hey, I like the original tailgate chains so I had them do me a setup with the chains. Picked up all these goodies at Hershey. 102_0834.JPG 102_0835.JPG
     
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  10. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    The tires are 155/80R15 front on 15x5 and 235/70R15 rear on 15x7 smoothies. Yes, I need to turn the raised white letters in. Thinking I might be able to go 255 on the rear??
     
  11. Be sure to visit DMV early and find out their requirements. Probably receipts for major parts but each state is different.

    Charlie Stephens
     
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  12. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Brookville's suspension front and rear. Rear end has 31 spline axles but comes less center section. I'm thinking since I'll have overdrive I could go as low as 3:90-4:11 and the 331 would only be spinning around 2500 at 70 mph. 102_0841.JPG 102_0842.JPG
     
  13. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Taking the wood out of the bed today so I can send it to the paint shop. Using PPG DP90LF Black Epoxy Primer/Sealer on all steel body parts. Going to powder coat the chassis components. 102_0836.JPG 102_0837.JPG
     
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  14. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Didn't want Brookville's passenger car '32 grille shell and insert. Hey, it's a truck right? Purchased this '32 commercial shell from United Pacific. Looks to be a high quality part but unsure of how it fits as of yet. Passenger car gas filler is accessed thru a nifty little hidden door in the back corner of the bed. 102_0838.JPG 102_0839.JPG
     
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  15. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,173

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have you bought a Cad motor yet?...if you know you want that A/T, I would use the 54? -up design block that does not have the bell extension. That extended block make the A/T swap more $ and some kits have the A/T set way further back, chewing up valuable foot space at the trans tunnel.

    The Cad guru's can tell you the exact year that Cad went away from the early extended block...54 I thought, but not sure.

    .
     
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  16. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 10,229

    AHotRod
    Member

    You will hate it if you put 3.90-4.11 gears in it, overdrive or not …. 3.25 - 3.50 would be my suggestion.... there is no point in beating that old Caddy to death...

    In my Buick Nailhead powered Sedan I went with 3.00 gears …. and afterwards would have went to 2.75 gears if I hadn't sold it.... an No, I did NOT have a overdrive trans, just a 400 Hyrdo.
     
    GuyW likes this.
  17. I am sure you know but wanted to be safe . The dash tunnel in 1932 is unique to the truck in 1932. I don't know if you can use it with the '33 body. You might want to do a fit check before painting. It is looking great, keep the pictures coming.

    A couple of thoughts on the radiator. On my AVATAR I used a Walker radiator with the filler neck under the hood. The top of the radiator was flat. I bolted a stock radiator cap in from underneath. I am happy the way it looks.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2018
  18. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Yes, I had a friend give me what appears to be a decent '55 model that does NOT have the extended bell housing cast in. It is missing a few parts but I think another HAMBer has them covered for me.
     
  19. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,173

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Perfect choice... Those sure are one classy looking motor, even with bone stock valve covers. You will love the torque and low end pull.

    .
     
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  20. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Since i am keeping the radiator in the stock location, the 331 is long enough I am certain the firewall will need to be modified for the engine to fit. Probably not going to use the dash tunnel anyway. I also plan to use a Walker radiator with the under hood filler neck and do the "fake" cap as you did. That's my next purchase.
     
  21. Subscribed. Please post more pics (when the time comes) of how the gas tank and underside of bed and back end work with one another. Also, who's tank is that that you've purchased?
     
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  22. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    The gas tank is from "Tanks Inc." It's a standard '32 passenger car unit that of course bolts in the stock passenger car location between the rear frame rails. The frame turns down at the rear so the bad simply sets right over top of it. A little spring loaded trap door in the rear corner of the bed pops up revealing the gas cap. Very slick!
     
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  23. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 9,934

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Great build. I like your choices. Can’t wait to view the assembled bed onto the frame with the tank.
    I hope you’re short in stature with the adjusted firewall. And do you plan to chop it?
     
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  24. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Started pulling down the 331 and it has the stock bore and little to no ring groove. Need to finish disassembly and hot tank the block and check for cracks. A buddy recommends Ballos Precision Machine in Richmond for the machine work. Anybody have experience with them? 102_0840.JPG
     
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  25. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    I'm pretty short at 5'-7". I have a 29" inseam so legroom typically isn't an issue. :rolleyes: No chop (or channel) on this build. I like the look of a sensible chop but I think I'll be happy with the stock height.
     
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  26. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,079

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    As has been mentioned before, but cannot be emphasized enough : GET YOUR "LEGALS" CORRECT BEFORE YOU GET ANY FURTHER!!! It saves a lot of "crying, bitching & moaning" later!! Way too many threads on here about how someone got screwed because they thought "It won't happen to me!" Murphy's Rules always apply!
     
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  27. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 2,369

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Yes to being interested in your build. Who wouldn't be. I love tech and watching and learning. Every build has something to grow by:cool:
     
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  28. pkhammer
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 329

    pkhammer
    Member

    Absolutely! I do have a '32 Ford pickup title but whether or not I can legally use it is something I need to work out at the DMV. -Thanks
     
  29. Is this the truck you wanted to see? HRP

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    waxhead, GuyW, DA Suede Rods and 4 others like this.
  30. Any chance you can hone it and ring it? Are the bearings useable?

    Charlie Stephens
     

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