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Project 29 Tudor in Mass.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Mikel50, Apr 17, 2015.

  1. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    I'm in the need of a Tudor top door hinge cowl side of anyone has one they would be willing to part with

    [​IMG]


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  2. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    I found a hinge ...well kinda. I decided to try to make one.
    So now I have 5 Henry hinges and 1 Mike hinge
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    Had to fill a few small spots on the weld seam but broke my sanding belt on my finger sander.
    So I need to find the spare I have to finish sand it.

    But it should finish up good.


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    Last edited: May 6, 2017
  3. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Made some progress today on a few things. Kinda putting things together on the roof section to get things fitting better. I realized there were quite a few things not bolted or fasted to things they should've been. So I buttoned those things up and placed the wood supports in the roof to get my spacing kinda where it needed to be.
    Got my drivers side roof panel fit really well and got a good idea how things are supposed to look.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    I also decided to get a handle on the steering and sandblasted some parts ...went digging through boxes and found part of an F3 steering arm and also a drag link I picked up at some point.
    Pressed out the steering ball and tapered it to fit into my steering hoop after boring the hole to 5/8" on my drill press.
    Fit like a glove and somehow I had a drag link that appears to be the correct length for my set up.
    Pretty pumped about that ...[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    I welded the bottom of the steering ball post afterwards.

    Nice when things go smooth


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  4. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,835

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Nice
     
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  5. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,594

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Man....that body is nice!! Starting to look like a complete car now! Good work.
     
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  6. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    I am fortunate the body is pretty much solid...I have a few spots to fix, but it's minimal.


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  7. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Fabricated the roof/windshield support piece that goes from the A To B pillar.
    Got the pass side roof together and fitting nice for now. [​IMG]
    Because of the step in the rear frame and running the 40 rear w the spring behind I needed to remove the rear portion of the subrail.
    I know I will need to rebuild some type of support for the back.
    I needed to get the body on blocks and where it would mount to the frame.
    Then removed the firewall and things fit perfect.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    Plans are to get the body sured up as straight as I can then lift it off the frame. Cut out the subrails and plan/start the channel.

    Unchartered territory as usual.


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    Last edited: May 10, 2017
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  8. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Set the old grill shell and fiberglass hood (came with the car) on to see how everything fit and looked.
    [​IMG]


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  9. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,454

    mike bowling
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Almost time for burgers and ice cream!
    Lookin' Good, Pardner!
     
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  10. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Thank you Mike.
    I really appreciate the support.


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  11. Your Project is building up nicely. I saw your floor is wood, can you weld there?
     
  12. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Thank you !
    I sure do ... hasn't stopped me yet !
    I have a fire extinguisher on the wall and marshmallows in the cabinet ... depending on the day


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    Last edited: May 10, 2017
  13. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,015

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Buddy doing a '30 Tudor, can't wait for rear subfloor kick up picks... me kneetha...
     
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  14. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Spent some time tonight focusing on getting the pedals sorted... had/wanted to cut the lower portion off the pedal mount because I didn't like the way it hung down past the crossmember, it was below about 1/4" but ehh. Didn't like it. [​IMG]

    So why I did that was because I thought I had F1 pedals.
    However I think they're 39 pedals maybe. I don't know...doesn't really matter I suppose.
    With the mount cut I positioned it and re drilled the crossmember for it.
    I'll fill the other holes when I tear things down.
    Then moved on to the clutch linkage.

    Doesn't seem like there's a real set way people set up the linkage or a hot set up from what I can tell.

    So this is what I've got and I like it.

    [​IMG]

    I used the clutch actuator shaft from an F1 because I thought everything else was F1 and it just made sense.
    [​IMG]

    I purchased a Wilwood brake Master Cylinder push rod kit for my brakes.
    But when I ordered my Master it came with everything I needed so the Wilwood kit was "Spare parts"
    [​IMG]
    I had to modify the linkage loop on the pedal side by fabricating my own using the thread portion of the piece in the kit.
    [​IMG]
    After some fine tuning it bolted right up and fit like a glove.
    [​IMG]
    The bolt is temporary just to hold it in place.
    I'm going to use a pin with cotter pin for final. [​IMG][​IMG]
    Inside the frame rail from the steering box. [​IMG]
    I need to fabricate the carrier mount that the clutch shaft will rotate on. It will be welded to the underside of the frame rail ...going to go hunt for bearings tomorrow...then get to work.




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    Last edited: May 11, 2017
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  15. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,454

    mike bowling
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I congratulate you on your creative approach and willingness to try some things that are "outside the box". You will end up with a car that is truly yours, not another "blueprint" hot rod (that are all the same except for paint --well, black IS used once in a while).
    At the pace you're going, I better accelerate the search for that "mitered" frame!!
    Keep up the good work, Brother!!
     
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  16. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,594

    NashRodMan
    Member

    What he ^^^ said! Wow, nice work you are doing there Mike!!
     
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  17. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Thank you Mike.
    I've owned my car for over 2 years and I was intimidated to start it.
    I didn't know what to do or where to start.
    I finally talked myself into starting it after I had some other life things off my plate.
    I honestly have no clue what I'm doing ...I look at what I have and what I need/want to do with it and figure something out.
    Now that I've got the ball rolling I'm loving every minute of it and I'm comfortable figuring those things out.

    I'm channeling Henry when in the garage also.
    I'm just doing what he tells me to do.

    Thank you for that compliment, It means a lot coming from you.




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    Last edited: May 11, 2017
  18. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,685

    wheeldog57
    Member

    Mike, the pedal assembly and linkage is quite tidy. I like that set up. It is fun figuring these things out, unless it doesn't work! I re-did sooo many things on mine but this is how we learn.

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  19. Looks great, tucked into the frame nicely
     
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  20. I like your way of practical engineering. Thats what hotrodding is all about.
     
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  21. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    After Mommas day was all said and done I got to spend some time in the Garage.
    Wanted to finish up the clutch rod mount.
    So that's what I did and here's what I got.

    I wanted to mimic the hairpin mount so I made a smaller version of them.
    [​IMG]
    Then I spent hours figuring out how I was going to make it pivot smoothly on it. So I carefully opened up the ID on the shaft cup.
    [​IMG]
    I then pressed on a grease seal and bushing/spacer from a dirt bike rear shock linkage kit I had.

    Then used the bushings and bearings from the same kit. I had to cut them way down to make things work.
    I fabricated up a spacer/seat for the bearings to sit in for the mount itself. I made it from an 1-1/4" Dom tube with a 1"ID (same as the OD of the bearing)
    [​IMG]
    I drilled out the 5/8" pivot pin hole in the mount and pressed in the bearing and grease seal on the mount. [​IMG]
    Things fit together great
    [​IMG]
    Got things fine tuned and fitted up.
    Clamped on the frame and used my clutch tonight.
    That thing moves like "Buttah" as we say in Mass.
    I need to add a small stop for the pivot pin so it won't back out of the mount. So I won't weld it to the frame until that's done.
    But I and extremely happy with the finished product.
    [​IMG][​IMG]



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    Last edited: May 14, 2017
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  22. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,824

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    It should move like buttah with a needle bearing, that is overengineered and I love it!
     
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  23. dylan60
    Joined: Jun 28, 2010
    Posts: 379

    dylan60
    Member
    from ny

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  24. panicmike
    Joined: Mar 31, 2015
    Posts: 11

    panicmike

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  25. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,594

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Keep on truckin" Mike!! What are those square things on the bottom of the frame in that last picture?
     
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  26. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,685

    wheeldog57
    Member

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  27. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Those are 1/2" square strong ass magnets.


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  28. is there enough movement in the shaft/bearing, to allow the motor/tranny to roll when under torque?
     
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  29. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    Ya know that's a really good question.
    Now you've got me thinking.

    Where the shaft meets the clutch arm on the trans it has a 3/8" long slot for the pin or bolt to go through. It oscillates and moves in and out pretty good. The shaft will float in and out about 1/4" with the room it would have if I weld the mount flush with the outside of the frame. (That's the plan)
    I guess I should jack up the motor to see rotation under load.




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  30. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,086

    Mikel50

    I have an option to replace the needle bearing with a rubber bushing. All I need to do is find a rubber bushing


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