Register now to get rid of these ads!

primer/ sealer

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Greasy Chevy, Jun 13, 2011.

  1. Greasy Chevy
    Joined: Nov 27, 2008
    Posts: 67

    Greasy Chevy
    Member

    Im starting to get the sanding and body work done on my car so i can paint it. My question do i sand the whole car down to bare metal? id rather not. If i dont do i just use sealer on the parts that are bare metal and then prime the whole car? Just seal and prime the bare metal? prime and seal the whole car?
    im nowhere near done sanding just wanted to give an idea of what im talking about.

    and take it to a body shop doesnt cound as an answer unless youre buying. :)
     

    Attached Files:

  2. seventhirteen
    Joined: Sep 21, 2009
    Posts: 721

    seventhirteen
    Member
    from dago, ca

    epoxy primer will stick to both the old paint/primer and bare metal, course best way is bare metal but you know that already
     
  3. Greasy Chevy
    Joined: Nov 27, 2008
    Posts: 67

    Greasy Chevy
    Member

    haha yeah i knew that...
    so are you saying all bare metal then sealer then primer? or bare metal then primer?
     
  4. kroozn1
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 144

    kroozn1
    Member

    It looks like that is old, cracked lacquer paint. Lacquer was the factory paint on your chevy.
    If it is and you don't get all the checked and cracked lacquer off it will show in the next paint job.
     

  5. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,461

    40StudeDude
    Member

    Epoxy can and will seal both bare metal and old paint...worse part is that old Chevy had lacquer on it...old lacquer tends to check over the years and "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link"...it'd be best if you remove all the paint...then use the epoxy sealer, then do your body work, if any, then seal the body work and primer...

    Use all the same product as well...

    R-
     
  6. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member



    Yep, a top quality paint job is only as good as what is underneath it.
     
  7. Greasy Chevy
    Joined: Nov 27, 2008
    Posts: 67

    Greasy Chevy
    Member

  8. csclassics
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 169

    csclassics
    Member

    Hey at this point you might as well go bare metal and then epoxy primer. If you use Epoxy primer, there is no need for a sealer. :)
     
  9. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    primer first then sealer. unless using the aforementioned epoxy primer/sealer. you don't have to go all the way to bare metal, but as said it is best in my book. just make sure you get everything that is left feather edged and get it thin enough you are past the lacquer check. good luck.
     
  10. Chevy54
    Joined: Sep 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,413

    Chevy54
    Member
    from Orange, CA


    Actually, any paint job is only worth whats underneath it!:D

    Get some razor blades and start stripping!
     
  11. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,955

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    You HAVE to go to bare metal. Your car has a lot of surface rust showing, and I guarantee, that what's under the paint that's left, probably has rust under it as well.
    So, strip or sand the car to bare. Treat the rust appropriately (do a search). Then either use an etch primer, to be followed later by urethane primer, or use an epoxy primer. I prefer HOK epoxy, as it is good on bare metal, sands easy, and you can put bondo under, or over it. Most epoxies you can't do this with.
     
  12. overspray
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 1,232

    overspray
    Member

    Mark is the only one that mentioned the rust showing on the surface and that it needs to be treated. If it is rusting like in the picture, that means the original phosphate coating on the bare steel has degraded. A metal prep (phosphoric acid) or an etch primer will treat the rust and re-phosphate the metal and prepare it for a primer. Epoxy primers do nothing for rust, except cover it. Most automotive epoxy primers available today have low to medium solids content and still need to be primed over with a primer filler or hi solids primer as part of the foundation for the paint.

    As Mark said, the HOK epoxy is a good primer with good solids content, but the rust still needs to be treated before the epoxy is applied.
     
  13. Chevy54
    Joined: Sep 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,413

    Chevy54
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    Excatly!! For example I just stripped the cab on my 51 (which was solid paint with a few blisters) and when the sander cut down thru the prime and into the etch rusty dust started flying....there was a surface rust layer underneath everything just because it wasnt prepped rite before it was etched....thats why the blistering happened! You have to strip that...or do a scuff n shoot which is like lipstick on a pig!:D
     
  14. Greasy Chevy
    Joined: Nov 27, 2008
    Posts: 67

    Greasy Chevy
    Member

    Thanks a lot guys. Real good information. Now I just gotta get working.
     
  15. reallylongnickname
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 16

    reallylongnickname
    Member

    HOK has revised their lines of paints to comply with environmental regulations. They also launched a new line: KD3000 series. It's too early to know if their claim of "excellent adhesion" is true or not in the new HOK vs. the same corrosion resistance as the old HOK.
     

  16. Good info, but dont just shoot even an etching primer over rust..it is not meant for a replacement for rust treatment, especially if its deep at all. Most all good epoxy primers can be shot over bare metal but a true etching primer will grab it by the nads..
     
  17. leroys85coupe
    Joined: Jun 2, 2009
    Posts: 148

    leroys85coupe
    Member
    from usa

    i would start by sanding it down good, you can use paint stripper even. just get it cleaned good afterwards. or use 80 or 120 grit paper on a da in grind mode. if you go with the latter, dont stay in one spot very long, if you see sparks your good, move on
    once you get to the priming stage, i would use either ppg expoxy, or zrust, which is made by claussens, available at oreillys or on ebay. i cant speak for ppg, but the claussens builds great. only problem is you have to block it again and primer over it. but its great shit, esp where thats a big paneled car.
    good luck bud. holler if you need any help :cool:
     
  18. Greasy Chevy
    Joined: Nov 27, 2008
    Posts: 67

    Greasy Chevy
    Member

    WOW. 4 months later... so i got primer on my car today. i sanded to down to about 93 percent bare metal and the resy factory primer that still looked good. i shot it with Epoxy primer from kustom shop(tpc golbal). anyway im real pleased so far. no major issues aside from a little spilled paint.. still have to sand and put paint on it but here it is for now.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,955

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Yeah! Looks pretty good, keep us updated as you get ready for paint!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.