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Technical Primer or clear ??

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by sickiee32, Sep 16, 2020.

  1. sickiee32
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 151

    from So Cal

    Just got a new Model A frame ... What is the best way to seal the frame and parts for right now so they don’t rust ?? I’d like to keep the bare metal look for now.... so not sure what to use ?? gonna powder coat when ready so they will sand blast it away anyways

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  2. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,078

    from Florida

    I use Picklex, expensive but so is your frame.
    -Brent- likes this.
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,270


  4. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    from NJ

    Wipe it down with rust remover/metal prep with zinc. You can store it indoors for a year and it won't rust. This will leave a phosphate film and will increase the longevity of your chassis coating

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 52,835


    which side of the mountains are you on? If you're on the east side, just keep it in side. If you're on the west side, I guess you have to do something, eh? I'd just spray it with cheap spray can gloss black....after a quick degreasing. Good primer that will keep it from rusting will cost money.
  6. 8flat
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 1,386


    I did this to my coupe body after soda blasting, 9 yrs ago, still looks perfect sitting in cold storage. It was also nice because it got in all the nooks and crannies were sprayed primer will not.
    31hotrodguy likes this.
  7. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 6,934

    A Boner

    Gibbs oil...refresh occasionally.
    bill gruendeman likes this.
  8. If you have the frame inside I wouldn't worry about it, your going to be welding and grinding and like you said you plan on powder coating when the time comes, they will sandblast it before coating, HRP
  9. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,803


    I really like picklex20, too.
  10. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 7,824

    from Oregon

    Depends on where it's going to be stored. Inside, or outside? I usually just dilute some black Rustoleum with acetone, and spray the whole frame. I paint my frames and bottom side of bodies with Rustoleum anyway, so it's a good way to stop rust, and prep for final painting on the frame. Easy to grind off spots where I want to weld later.
    JNKYARDDOG_1 likes this.
  11. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 1,867


    I second the motion of A Boner's recommendation of Gibbs!

    bill gruendeman likes this.
  12. msgt tank
    Joined: Aug 14, 2018
    Posts: 109

    msgt tank

    linseed oil is cheap and seals the metal and leaves a dry finish after a couple of days. it also looks good on rusty metal.
  13. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,038


    There is no such thing as bare metal. It is, instead, a canvas for Mister Rust --- the old man who lives on a rain cloud and never sleeps. Untended bare metal that is touched by what Birdman Stewart once called 'piss hands', dog urine, and any and every casual encounter with moisture brings glee to the that crazy old bastard who pits and weakens, and destroys what was only hours before a nice and shiny surface. And, a word of caution, rue be he who waits, who hesitates, who plans and does not use something to counter oxidation. Myself, I like Por15, no matter what the naysayers post about it. If you should nap while Mister Rust does his dirtiest, this paint will save your bacon, and can be applied quite smoothly with a brush if you lack the proper tools (compressor, paint gun, respirator, etc.) And, a word of caution: breathing the aerated mist is extremely harmful to the lungs. No, I'm no trying to discourage its use. I say this because to me, powder-coat being only melted plastic lacks the actual chemical action of changing the molecular structure of the surface of the metal as etching primers and so on, being in fact simply a wrap rather than an integral part of the metal. This is just my two cents worth.
  14. Regg88
    Joined: Feb 21, 2021
    Posts: 2


    I got a 1960 Ford Thames Trader here in Australia and it has original paint. It was a barn find and didn't want to mess with what finish it had left on it.... I've use boiled Linseed oil with White Sprit or what we call Turpentine and found that if I give it a thick 20% sprit and 80% Boiled Linseed Oil coat and leave to dry for a good few weeks then use a premium wax over the top I get a deep shine and it has a great water resistance on the finish... We have Autosmart here in Australia and think you have it in the States also? It's the premium wax and after a couple of coats it looks great.. It's not syicky and a cloth just sides off it.. Will see how it stands up, but after 8 weeks it still looks good after a few coats of the wax.. Here in Australia the sun is very harsh and being summer with 100 deg F 40 deg C + over summer it looks like the goods so far... Some spots are bare meatal and looks to be a good protective coat.. Pics of how it looked when I found it and now... Untitled_1.png Untitled_2.png Untitled_3.png Untitled_4.jpg
  15. Regg88
    Joined: Feb 21, 2021
    Posts: 2


    May have made the pics a bit small... here's a bigger one
    A good shine on what was almost gone and shows the colour up nicely <AU spelling for Color :)> Untitled_5.png
    TrailerTrashToo likes this.

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