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Technical Primer or clear ??

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by sickiee32, Sep 16, 2020.

  1. sickiee32
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 120

    sickiee32
    Member
    from So Cal

    Just got a new Model A frame ... What is the best way to seal the frame and parts for right now so they don’t rust ?? I’d like to keep the bare metal look for now.... so not sure what to use ?? gonna powder coat when ready so they will sand blast it away anyways


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  2. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 822

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

    I use Picklex, expensive but so is your frame.
    picklex20.jpg
     
    -Brent- likes this.
  3. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,230

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

  4. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 412

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Wipe it down with rust remover/metal prep with zinc. You can store it indoors for a year and it won't rust. This will leave a phosphate film and will increase the longevity of your chassis coating
     

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,851

    squirrel
    Member

    which side of the mountains are you on? If you're on the east side, just keep it in side. If you're on the west side, I guess you have to do something, eh? I'd just spray it with cheap spray can gloss black....after a quick degreasing. Good primer that will keep it from rusting will cost money.
     
  6. 8flat
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 1,372

    8flat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I did this to my coupe body after soda blasting, 9 yrs ago, still looks perfect sitting in cold storage. It was also nice because it got in all the nooks and crannies were sprayed primer will not.
     
    31hotrodguy likes this.
  7. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 5,726

    A Boner
    Member

    Gibbs oil...refresh occasionally.
     
  8. If you have the frame inside I wouldn't worry about it, your going to be welding and grinding and like you said you plan on powder coating when the time comes, they will sandblast it before coating, HRP
     
  9. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 5,663

    -Brent-
    Member

    I really like picklex20, too.
     
  10. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 5,865

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Depends on where it's going to be stored. Inside, or outside? I usually just dilute some black Rustoleum with acetone, and spray the whole frame. I paint my frames and bottom side of bodies with Rustoleum anyway, so it's a good way to stop rust, and prep for final painting on the frame. Easy to grind off spots where I want to weld later.
     
    JNKYARDDOG_1 likes this.
  11. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 1,094

    lake_harley
    Member

    I second the motion of A Boner's recommendation of Gibbs!

    Lynn
     
  12. msgt tank
    Joined: Aug 14, 2018
    Posts: 47

    msgt tank

    linseed oil is cheap and seals the metal and leaves a dry finish after a couple of days. it also looks good on rusty metal.
     
  13. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 983

    fortynut
    Member

    There is no such thing as bare metal. It is, instead, a canvas for Mister Rust --- the old man who lives on a rain cloud and never sleeps. Untended bare metal that is touched by what Birdman Stewart once called 'piss hands', dog urine, and any and every casual encounter with moisture brings glee to the that crazy old bastard who pits and weakens, and destroys what was only hours before a nice and shiny surface. And, a word of caution, rue be he who waits, who hesitates, who plans and does not use something to counter oxidation. Myself, I like Por15, no matter what the naysayers post about it. If you should nap while Mister Rust does his dirtiest, this paint will save your bacon, and can be applied quite smoothly with a brush if you lack the proper tools (compressor, paint gun, respirator, etc.) And, a word of caution: breathing the aerated mist is extremely harmful to the lungs. No, I'm no trying to discourage its use. I say this because to me, powder-coat being only melted plastic lacks the actual chemical action of changing the molecular structure of the surface of the metal as etching primers and so on, being in fact simply a wrap rather than an integral part of the metal. This is just my two cents worth.
     

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