Just got a new Model A frame ... What is the best way to seal the frame and parts for right now so they don’t rust ?? I’d like to keep the bare metal look for now.... so not sure what to use ?? gonna powder coat when ready so they will sand blast it away anyways Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Wipe it down with rust remover/metal prep with zinc. You can store it indoors for a year and it won't rust. This will leave a phosphate film and will increase the longevity of your chassis coating
which side of the mountains are you on? If you're on the east side, just keep it in side. If you're on the west side, I guess you have to do something, eh? I'd just spray it with cheap spray can gloss black....after a quick degreasing. Good primer that will keep it from rusting will cost money.
I did this to my coupe body after soda blasting, 9 yrs ago, still looks perfect sitting in cold storage. It was also nice because it got in all the nooks and crannies were sprayed primer will not.
If you have the frame inside I wouldn't worry about it, your going to be welding and grinding and like you said you plan on powder coating when the time comes, they will sandblast it before coating, HRP
Depends on where it's going to be stored. Inside, or outside? I usually just dilute some black Rustoleum with acetone, and spray the whole frame. I paint my frames and bottom side of bodies with Rustoleum anyway, so it's a good way to stop rust, and prep for final painting on the frame. Easy to grind off spots where I want to weld later.
linseed oil is cheap and seals the metal and leaves a dry finish after a couple of days. it also looks good on rusty metal.
There is no such thing as bare metal. It is, instead, a canvas for Mister Rust --- the old man who lives on a rain cloud and never sleeps. Untended bare metal that is touched by what Birdman Stewart once called 'piss hands', dog urine, and any and every casual encounter with moisture brings glee to the that crazy old bastard who pits and weakens, and destroys what was only hours before a nice and shiny surface. And, a word of caution, rue be he who waits, who hesitates, who plans and does not use something to counter oxidation. Myself, I like Por15, no matter what the naysayers post about it. If you should nap while Mister Rust does his dirtiest, this paint will save your bacon, and can be applied quite smoothly with a brush if you lack the proper tools (compressor, paint gun, respirator, etc.) And, a word of caution: breathing the aerated mist is extremely harmful to the lungs. No, I'm no trying to discourage its use. I say this because to me, powder-coat being only melted plastic lacks the actual chemical action of changing the molecular structure of the surface of the metal as etching primers and so on, being in fact simply a wrap rather than an integral part of the metal. This is just my two cents worth.
I got a 1960 Ford Thames Trader here in Australia and it has original paint. It was a barn find and didn't want to mess with what finish it had left on it.... I've use boiled Linseed oil with White Sprit or what we call Turpentine and found that if I give it a thick 20% sprit and 80% Boiled Linseed Oil coat and leave to dry for a good few weeks then use a premium wax over the top I get a deep shine and it has a great water resistance on the finish... We have Autosmart here in Australia and think you have it in the States also? It's the premium wax and after a couple of coats it looks great.. It's not syicky and a cloth just sides off it.. Will see how it stands up, but after 8 weeks it still looks good after a few coats of the wax.. Here in Australia the sun is very harsh and being summer with 100 deg F 40 deg C + over summer it looks like the goods so far... Some spots are bare meatal and looks to be a good protective coat.. Pics of how it looked when I found it and now...
May have made the pics a bit small... here's a bigger one A good shine on what was almost gone and shows the colour up nicely <AU spelling for Color >
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