I will be spraying this stuff on my truck as I prep it for a black paint job. I welded up the cracks and knocked out the dents, sandblasted, rhino lined the underside, epoxy primered the tops and used Evercoat filler on the patch panels and weld areas, leaving an 80 year old pinged up surface to skim coat. This "spray on bondo" should do the trick. The instructions I received with it says it goes on pink and sands grey so it has a built in guide coat basically. No experience with this stuff thus the application question that follows; The instruction sheet recommends a 2.0 tip which I need to pick up (my largest tip is 1.8). But the question is for those experienced, being as thick as this stuff is and as heavy as it goes on, would my syphon cup or my HVLP gun be the better tool for the job?
I've sprayed similar products with both types of guns. I found most products today spray better with hvlp guns. I was old school and hate change but had to get use to a hvlp gun after using a siphon gun for 20 years. Now I love the hvlp gun. Word of caution clean, clean that gun immediately after using. I lost a few guns not cleaning them in time. Sent from my SM-A520W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That is what I hear. Costs more than most guys spend on their finish coat but I want this to look tight.
2.0 is the minimum size we recommend for that product, go bigger. I use a 3.0 to spray it but that's extreme. The product you have shown is not the product that goes on pink that one is grey only. The pink one is Optex SuperBuild like below. The part number 100740 the one you showed is 100730. There are two speeds of hardener available. The 100733 that you have shown and 100734 which is faster. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
I just nabbed that image from google, my can is at home and is the 100740, I have to check the harder, I didn't know there were 2. It is not warm here yet but we are starting to see 60-65 degree days show up. Applying in my garage with the doors open, slower hardener?
Yes you will want the 100733. The fast is for spot repairs in the collision industry. At temperatures like that, I assume colder, over night, make sure the metal is up to temperature as well as ambient temp or you may/will have issues. That is right on the cusp of what we would consider acceptable to spray.
I have about 4 different versions of this gun. They are cheap enough to own different tip versions. This one is 2.0. They have been very reliable. If you want a bigger tip, just search TCP's website and then order it on Amazon Prime. https://tcpglobal.com/products/tcp-...SrZO_leYg_OWF6bZYJ7iECzhZtTBZyAAaArrNEALw_wcB I can not say that about the HF guns. Don't waste your money.
I found this in case you were wondering. https://tcpglobal.com/products/tcpp6600-25 https://tcpglobal.com/products/tcp-g6600-25_2
If you havent shot that yet, let me reccomend this: https://tamcopaint.com/collections/primers/products/dtm-primer Will build almost as thick as that spray bondo, it wont shrink back though like the bondo does, and you can use it direct to bare metal. I've sanded both, and sanding spray bondo suuuuucks! the tamco is like sanding butter
From Tamco's TDS sheet the TOTAL recommended film build with 2-3 coats is 3-6 mils. That is nowhere near the same build characteristics of the product he is using. That is the same build as 1 coat of Superbuild. Not even close to the same products or uses.
I haven’t used that type, with the 4.:1 hardener, but the original that uses the little tubes of clear like you’d use for resin. I REALLY like it. I’m using a 1.8 tip in a stupid cheap HF gun and it lays down great, although it barely goes through a paint strainer. I cut it with about 5% lacquer thinner. Doesn’t seem to hurt it. It’s a little less $$ than the type you have. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I have finished the bondo stage on the rear fenders, I will start front fenders this weekend. I plan to sand the fenders first before attacking the cab and doors. Hopefully we can warm up a few degrees in the meantime. I can always leave the heat on overnight to keep the metal temp up Nice call. 2.5 gun ordered. With a reg for $59 and i am not messing with my finish gun. I can't say i wasn't warned! Since I already own this stuff and have committed, what grit do you think I should block it with? Anyone feel free to jump in there on that one.
I was warned by my paint store to make sure there is no water in the air lines or this product will have issues down the road. So I added this to the system; A IR electronic air cooler/dryer. I cool the air in the copper tower before entering the new air dryer. I have a final descant chamber/filter that my paint hose connects to and a hand-full of those little orange filters for insurance. Not cheap but less expensive than messing it up and starting over or paying a pro to do it for that matter.
You will have no problems sanding it with 180-220. And SuperBuild is no more susceptible to water contamination issues than any other product. It's not good for any product to have water in your lines
Just a heads up but lacquer thinner is not a good solvent to use to reduce paint with anymore. The quality is all over the map with most of it leaning towards garbage. Acetone or a good urethane reducer are much better choices for those types of products.
I use a product from axalta. It's also too thick to go through the strainer. I cut it with urethane reducer. Never had an issue with it. And I'm using a 1.8 tip.
Finish your plastic filler to 80 grit, then Feather fill, dry 120, aggressively. I do that, then another double wet coat, guide coat it, then wet or dry with 220, then 320/400. You should be ready for color. I've used epoxy sealer, and shot color right on the Feather Fill, good results both ways.
Does that stuff work on fiberglass and do you do fiberglass body finish work? Oh, by the way, do you make house calls? If yes to these three questions, let me know and I'll PM you my address.
Any polyester based primer will work beautifully over fiberglass. They are ideal for that application.
The spray on fillers,,, I’ve used similar products and mostly love them. The one issue I have is the texture after spraying. I get a heavy texture orange peel and there’s a lot of sanding before the surface actually starts getting perfected. Seems wasteful in labor, paper, and product. Results are outstanding.
I had the same complaint. Some Urethane reducer as mentioned above will cure that problem. It will lay down smooth and you do not have the texture to sand off before you get to the true block sanding.
I have been using that same copper zig zag cooling method to keep my air system water and oil free since the 1970s and still use it. In my view, those copper condenser pipes are the best way to insure clean dry air. I recommend them for every compressor. Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app