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Hot Rods Primer choices

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Donald N Wemple Jr., Jan 20, 2022.

  1. Hi, I am trying to sort out what I can use over Dupli color Self etching primer. had body panels sandblasted ( rusty old race car) and the blaster put Dupli color self etching primer right away to prevent rusting. I need to now put a filler primer over it as there are more than a few pits in steel. I was hoping to use a roller to apply the primer on the panels as I live in a residential neighborhood and homes are very close. Not set up for spraying it on with the modern requirements for respirators. Called Dupli color tech line today. They were not very helpful with information or what I could use over the self etch primer. I asked if it is Enamel or Lacquer based. He said neither. He said to use their Scratch and fill primer FP 101 which is Lacquer based. So what primer could I use with a roller (know alot of sanding involved) over their product. Going to have someone paint car when I get the body in better shape. The car will be used so not going to be a trailer queen. Thanks for any guidance on this.
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 51,244


    Talk to the guy who's going to paint the car.
    dirt t and Chili Phil like this.
  3. Well my only choice so far is Macco. They want to use Base coat /clear coat on top of what I use as a primer. Quoted $1000.00 for 6 pieces if I primer everything for them. There are some deep pits in some panels so I was going to primer the hell out of it and sand it down. Thought maybe a roll on primer would work. See that you can roll on 2K primers and sand but have no experience with these things as to what would apply over the self etching primer. No not a painter!
  4. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,305


    It says it works under all types of paint.

    MyGarage LoginRegister

    • Self-Etching Primer
      Dupli-Color® Self-Etching Primer etches and primes bare metal in one step, making it ideal to use as the first step in all automotive priming projects and for use on spot repairs. A high-quality formulation allows for maximum adhesion under all types of automotive finishes on plastics, fiberglass, bare steel, aluminum and stainless steel surfaces.


  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 51,244


    It's pretty common to use 2K primer over self etching primer. Make sure you follow directions carefully about treating the surface before applying the next coat--proper grit sandpaper, cleaning, etc.

    It might work, when you're all done with it. Have fun!
  6. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,166

    from Ks

    And it's interior/exterior.
  7. O.K. great. Tech offered no help only said cannot comment on using anything over it except their filler primer. That was not helpful to a novice and disappointed in his answer. Local shop I buy the primer from said it was enamel so I needed to use primer for enamel! Guess he is not correct. I know there are many professionals here that eat and sleep paint but I am not one. Trying to learn on this job. Now what 2k to use. Well know you get what you pay for on this one. Are there any different types of 2K I should be using? I read some will gum up sandpaper so again a little guidance would be of great help.
  8. Wanderlust
    Joined: Oct 27, 2019
    Posts: 494


    Pretty sure no one wants to stick their necks out on this, most companies want their products used start to finish and ensure they are not compatible with the others, meaning you might be best to start over depending upon the end result you’re wanting
    loudbang likes this.
  9. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,035

    from kansas

    I have a buddy that's used this primer then used the duplicolor fill and sand on top of that. Wet sanded out then applied auto base clear on top of it.

    It's held up just fine, he did a truck bedside this way and drove it 3 yrs and now I have owned it for 5 years and still looks like the rest of the trucks oem paint.
  10. Call a local Paint Jobber…if they’re worth a crap, they’ll help you out…don’t look for a lot of love from them on the dupli color stuff..and I wouldn’t use lacquer primer on anything but lacquer’s not a stable foundation for anything else…

    I’d be looking looking at a 2K epoxy primer if I were in your situation
  11. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,033

    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Pros don't use spray can paint, so don't ask them. Spray bombs are low quality, and sometimes of unknown composition. No pro painter will shoot good paint over an unknown foundation. If you're going to spend good money on paint, use a proper primer, even if you have to sand off the self etch. Again, ask the guy painting it.
    safetythird, loudbang and Just Gary like this.
  12. O.K. Well I guess I will ask sandblaster to not use this stuff any more as it is causing this much of an issue. Appreciate the help.
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 51,244


    I recently moved to a neighborhood where doing the blasting/painting work on my cars that I used to do, just won't work out easily. I decided before moving that I would not build any more nice looking cars...they have to keep the finish they had when I got them.

    The neat thing is that today you can get away with that, at least among the general public.

    No, it's not a a traditional look.
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 51,244


    Also, consider that most of the pro painters guarantee their work, and they've learned over the years that you can have problems if you don't use products exactly as recommended.

    In real old pickup truck I covered with lacquer primer after stripping it, then did bodywork and covered it with patches of different kinds of spray can primer, then a friend sprayed enamel primer/sealer and acrylic enamel over it. And none of that has lifted or anything in the past 40 years.

    So maybe you can get away with using the spray can primer, if you make sure it's well adhered, and you sand most of it off as you're doing the bodywork and priming with 2k.

    Make sure you can control the film thickness as you apply the primer...I expect it could have problems if it has thick areas.
  15. rod1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,021


    I kinda like to hear you say that. I have a few more higher quality cars to build,but the " beater is neater "works to take some of the stress off the "Build as you Go" projects.
  16. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 3,684


    I share your dilemma. My Morris woody was stripped and primered 10 years ago with who knows what. (It stuck pretty good) Small rust colored spots have appeared over the years so I have been sanding off the old primer. I have only the two front fenders and the grille surround left to strip and of course all of the stripped panels are starting to rust. I had planned to paint it myself using the Duplicolor system from the auto parts store but my tests using their complete system were not too successful. I have no idea who to take it to for paint and I need to get protection on it very soon.
    Do I metal prep it and apply a name brand DTM primer or leave it in bare metal and let whoever paints it deal with the surface rust? This body and paint stuff is a pain in the ass.
  17. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 7,537


    I would put an epoxy sealer on it before using 2K primer. I would think you could roll it on also.
  18. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 4,607


    I thought epoxy over etch was a non no or is it the other way around?
    buffaloracer likes this.
  19. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 2,893


    I'm going to go out on a limb here, but I suspect that the Macco that is willing to shoot a car delivered to them in primer for $1,000 isn't going to guarantee much of anything. They are going to spray it and collect the money and wish you luck. It will probably look pretty nice for a while, but maybe only a short while, or it could be a couple of years, or more.

    The primer the sandblaster put on your car was probably intended to protect it until you started doing body work, maybe for 3-6 months, but not last forever. If the body was exposed to water while waiting for the body work to start, or its been over 6 months in that primer, all bets are off. The odds are pretty good it was a decent starting point, but he probably thought it was going to a body shop and they would remove whatever he put on it and start with the products the body shop uses.

    If you are intending to fill pits left from sandblasting with primer, expect to be giving it a lot of coats, any primer will not fill pits very fast, especially if there are a lot of pits close together.

    I don't pretend to be a body man, but I have done a lot of self painted rides that have looked pretty good for 4-5 years. If your up to the idea of roller priming and sanding between coats, the current industrial, or tractor enamel paint will hold up for years, if taken care of. You might want to consider saving the $1,000 Macco paint job and laying down hand painted enamel paint, sanding between coats. If you go that way, you can buy the other products you need that will work with the paint you choose. the $1,000 you were going to give Macco will probably cover most of your cost.

    Starting at the point you are currently at, as long as the current primer was not exposed to water, I would start by sanding the surface of one panel at a time that you will be working on (leave the other panels protected if the current primer is still standing up). I don't believe you need to remove the primer that is deep in the pits. Once sanded, you can either use body filler, or lots of primer to build up the pits and make the body smooth, then cover that area with a sealing primer and move to the next panel. When you have completed the entire car, you can scuff the entire surface, and prime it again, and start the painting process. Gene
    Fortunateson likes this.
  20. Hollywood-East
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,736


    I would skim coat the heavy pitted with a product called Icing, Rite over the etching primer, I have used that etch an top coated single stage, And B/C never had an issue, There is also a 2K primer that's a rattle can that You activate German brand.
  21. Hi great ideas. This project is an old race car. All the panels are bolted on so I can attack each one separately. Car has been in a garage so no water issues either. I do not expect a cherry paint job in the least but just hold up since dirt tracks tear up your work. Not trying to cheap out and trying to learn on bodywork. Started out in 1968 with Black knight and fiberglass mesh to plug hole back then on my first car. Yes not great but learned from that. Graduated to watching bodymen using steel wool, cardboard stuck with bondo then slowly wetting cardboard to thin cardboard and using bondo over everything. Yes the real bondo buggy. Have gotten much better cutting out rust and installing patch panels and priming. But never painted a car. Left it to others. Willing to try but not my forte. Had a suburban a friend painted for me after I did the prep work. Used Dupont Centari back then. Wow did she shine with no buffing but those easy paints are gone. Thanks for your help on this.
    connielu likes this.
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 51,244


    Cromax Centari 500 is still around, single stage acrylic enamel. DuPont did some name changing over the past decade
  23. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 4,607


    Is the Chromax Centari as good as the old stuff? I’m no painter but the first two cars I painted was with Centari and people wanted me to give them the name of my “painter”!
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 51,244


    I don't know. I use the cheaper Axalta (used to be Nason) acrylic enamel on the last few I did, and it seems to not be quite as good as Centari was when I used a few times long ago.
  25. safetythird
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 170


    Just to take it in a different direction, you could do a roll and tip for finish paint.

    Or, if you wanted to go with the alexseal boat paints, they have a rolling additive that makes their topcoat paint lay down fairly nicely.

    I have a military truck that won't fit in my shop, and that last method is what I'm going to give a try to.
  26. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 551

    from NJ

    Intoduce your sandblaster to metal prep. This will prevent flash rusting until you can get a decent primer over it. Primer is to prevent corrosion. I tested self etching primer in the tests it did not perform well. Sand self-etching primer off and you can put a decent primer on. What I do on my stuff I put two coats on with a 4 inch foam roller my silver primer and then a urethane or epoxy primer surfacer over it. If you go to Maaco get a price, tip the guy spraying a tip going in ,if it comes out perfect on the other side it'll be another tip, 100 on each end usually works good
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2022
  27. ssffnomad
    Joined: Jul 23, 2008
    Posts: 872


    Donald, our Mom was a big fan of your Dad.
    Parents before marriage would ride from Saratoga to Fonda with Starter Chet Hames.
    Who painted your Dad’s stock cars back in the day ?Stretch
  28. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 6,544

    A Boner

    Joined: Nov 29, 2011
    Posts: 158


    Get rid of that rattle can self etch primer then lay down a good epoxy. You then can do your mud work a good foundation means everything.
  30. Eastwood makes a roll-on primer kit, considering it for my car, just for the protection and I can do it a bit at a time.

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