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Prices for AV8 parts and such - sound fair?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chopt49, Feb 17, 2014.

  1. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 925

    chopt49
    Member

    I am starting my first AV8 build and got a quote on the following items, does this sound like a fair price for all these? Thanks in advance for any input.

    1940 hydraulic brake banjo rear end - $400.00

    1940 juice brakes (for front axel) - $200.00

    1936 bones. - $50.00

    1937 X member - $150.00

    16" X 4-1/2" set of 4 wheels - $300.00

    total $1,100.00

    I have a stock 1929 Model A frame. Putting a '26 Roadster on it. with a '53 flatty.



    Again Thanks...:)
     
  2. Alger
    Joined: Oct 8, 2013
    Posts: 51

    Alger
    Member
    from Sacto

    Sounds like the going rates, I'm building a 29 roadster and am paying similar prices give or take $50 and also depending on the condition, $50 for the bones sounds very good!
     
  3. Rear axle is crasy money.
     
  4. Condition is everything. Some of the prices above sound high if the parts are as found. If the brakes are clean, painted, new shoes, etc., or the rear end is ready to put in place, better than a fair price.
     
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  5. ravedodger
    Joined: Aug 24, 2007
    Posts: 296

    ravedodger
    Member

    Not bad prices. Maybe a little high for the rear axle, depending on condition. The 36 bones typically go for about $250 alone. If that's a package deal, I'd try to get it lower, or not convenience can also have a price.

    I started out with these

    36 banjo and bones $250

    Model A front axle w/ bare spindles and bearings $20

    Complete 36 banjo minus bones, complete 36 front end four wide five wheels and complete 48 banjo rear $125

    Complete Model A axle minus spring and perches w/juice brakes $275

    Set of wheels and tires w/spare off a 48 just yesterday $200

    All bought here in central California.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  6. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,651

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    I was thinkin that too but, I pieced one together.

    Open drive center with 3:54 gears $75
    37-41 bells $100
    37-41 axles $100
    Good backing plates $75
    Drums $100

    I went over that before brake shoes, bearings, gaskets etc. If he's got all usable parts I guess $400 isn't a bad price.
     
  7. Sounds like you may be building something close to this. It wares my channeled 30 Roadster body.
    The Wizzard
     

    Attached Files:

  8. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 925

    chopt49
    Member

    P-n-B....
    Nice set up you have there... is that front spring in front of the axle... first I have seen that on an A frame... I was planning a behind the axle set up.

    Do tell me more about yours please.


    ---

    Thank you all who have replied. I have not inspected the parts quoted as they are several hours away... I will confirm with the seller of their condition before embarking on the long journey to acquire them.

    Keep the comments coming.

    .
     
  9. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,651

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Those look like 42-48 bones. It will move the front axle back and shorten the wheelbase.
     
  10. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 925

    chopt49
    Member

    Cool, thanks for the quick response.. I love to learn about this stuff. I have been building customs for years and now venturing into the AV8 world.

    Again thanks.


    .
     
  11. That is not necessarly true. My wheel base is same as stock. It's all in how much work you're willing to do. That is a 38 front Axle as well as a 36 rear Axle with spring behind.
    I don't like a Z'd frame so I lowered my A different than most do.
    The Wizzard
     
  12. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,651

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    My A pickup frame has been lengthened 7 3/8" in the back to use a spring behind rear and keep the rear tire in the stock wheelhouse location.

    By using the spring in front I beam setup in front and a spring behind rear didn't you move both axles towards the center of the frame? Seems like it would have had to in a stock configuration A frame.

    Unless you moved the front crossmember forward and the rear crossmember rearward. Or lengthened the frame somewhere. Which, if that's what you did, maybe let the OP know that since he said he's new to AV8's.
     
  13. Quote; " My wheel base is same as stock. It's all in how much work you're willing to do."

    Isn't this pretty much saying there is work to be done to keep a "Stock" wheel base?
     
  14. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,651

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    I suppose you could say that. I just meant the details of what you did would be helpful to the OP instead of just alluding to the fact that it would take some fab work. I assume they are top secret since twice now you don't want to spill the beans.
     
  15. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 925

    chopt49
    Member

    F-6, looked over your build page... nice work!

    Looking at P-n-B's maybe the front spring cross member is moved forward some seeing the fresh welds.

    I am not to concerned with a slight variation in the wheelbase but I will pay close attention to the rear end so as to get centered within the the turtleneck's wheel arches. The front can move forward some and will do so if I to a behind the axle spring. I want to keep the horns on the frame and most loose them when doing a behind axle setup. I may do a small Z in the front (I think the Done Spenser A had one?) I want to runs stock from axle with no drop, but may opt to have dropped 2" or so. I am not going for a low stance, more late 1940's period correct look if you will.

    Thanks again for this who have chimed in on this.
     
  16. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,651

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Thanks, my truck has been a long time coming. Yeah his setup looks good. I just figured you might want to know what exact work was involved before you start buying parts.

    Wheelbase/proportion is important, it can make or break a car. For me, when the front end wheel base starts to get too stretched out it starts to look wierd. That's just me though. Look at cars and see what u like.

    The Doane Spencer car is a 32, not an A by the way.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  17. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 925

    chopt49
    Member

    Mine will not be pushed way out like a quarter elliptical spring set up does... saw a few at Sac Autorama last weekend and feel that is not the way I want to go.

    I know his was a '32 and recalled as soon as I hit submit and realized I said "A"... duh.. but has a small kick up in the front rails as seen in this pic [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  18. Hay Guys; No secrets on what I've done. Was just throwing out an X membered A frame as conversation and a visual. Being an Old Far I only type with 2 fingers so total explanation is time consuming. Often not understood or appriceated here. I'll answer anything but a total account for no reason don't make sence. Visual and must work is what it's all about to me. My way is always different and I've gotten used to the abuse around here. On my car frame horns were a must. The front crossmember is in the stock location. It's an AA part to accept the wider front spring. I also added caster in it with ride profile and tire size, that's why the welds. I also modifyed the X to mount the un split bones and get caster without wedging at the axle. ON and On and On. There is a lot more to it than what you see. Here is a photo of the Pile I started with.
    The Wizzard
     

    Attached Files:

  19. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 925

    chopt49
    Member

    Thanks for taking the time to write that up...I really appreciate it. Can I ask what the x-member is out of?
     
  20. 36 Ford but worked over. See photos. Look close and you will see the vertical cut to raise the center to put Ball mount at correct level for caster. I also run 39 pedals
    The Wizzard
     

    Attached Files:

  21. chopt49
    Joined: Jul 5, 2006
    Posts: 925

    chopt49
    Member

    Awesome, thanks for sharing those pics...
     
  22. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,651

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Nice work and a lot of it. Very cool. It can be time consuming to type all the things we do but that's how people that are new to all this learn stuff. Thanks for taking the time to explain your work. It looks great and work like that will never be under appreciated by me.
     

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