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Pre prepping frame for paint issues

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56 ford custom, Jul 7, 2013.

  1. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,922

    Fenders
    Member

    If you are building a car for a customer this is a useful thread.
    If you are building a show car for yourself this is a useful thread.
    If you are building a hot rod for yourself to drive, just paint the damn thing and DRIVE IT.
    How long will the frame paint last? How long will YOU last? Do you care if the frame is rusty when you are 70 years old?
     
  2. Its for me..well as long as I feel like keeping it and it should be for a good while.
     
  3. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,197

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Advice for "the next time".

    A frame is a good place to use Shopline PPG products vs their premium (expensive) line. However:

    6qt of epoxy primer and catalyst, $150

    6qts single stage gloss black, $300

    5gal of solvent (cheaper than single gallons), $60

    Professional stripping or sandblast service, $200

    Misc consumable supplies like respirator, masking paper, clear plastic to tarp the shop, you'll easily piss through $50.

    Grand total, $760, and I could be a bit off here n there. Some blasters closer to me want $300 to blast the average frame but I went with the best price found within a reasonable distance from the shop. You can add those costs as well, transportation at 10-11MPG. So were the better part of, if not over, $800 and we haven't picked up a tool or turned on the shop lights yet. No matter who I get a quote from, $850 to prep and gloss black powder coat the average vintage pickup or muscle car frame. A Model A frame is a couple hundred less, and I was quoted $1,000 for a Packard frame (a fuckin monster!).

    You results may vary, no purchase necessary, tax and title extra, void where prohibited, see your retailer for details, offer expires Feb 30, 2014...
     
  4. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,122

    indyjps
    Member

    When I shoot rustoleum I generally use acetone, mineral spirits takes a lot longer to dry. Naptha is faster than both. All 3 thinners are available at home depot. I use it for equipment and exterior doors and I don't always shoot in the best environment so I need it to set up to avoid dust. With mineral spirits the paint stays so fluid you have a high likelyhood of sags as you build coats. I start 5 parts paint and 1 part thinner and see how it shoots, some colors are thicker. Prep _ soap and water scrub with scotchbrite, sand it down and use the thinner I'm mixing with as a final wipe. This is for regular rustoleum, I've never used the alkyd version.
     
  5. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    yes its American , but possibly not Californian because of your air quality rules .

    go to a good paint shop like a sherwin williams store and ask for it as they should know if its legal or not for your area .
     
  6. young'n'poor
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,280

    young'n'poor
    Member
    from Anoka. MN

    I've only done one paint job in my life, and I used all products from one company and followed their instructions exactly to a T. It was a pain in the ass sometimes, and I'm sure I could have done it cheaper or faster if I tried some shortcuts here and there. The car i painted still looks great. For peace of mind and a great finished product I don't think you would regret it if you were to strip that frame and start from scratch with a full line of products from one company. Use the company whose paint you will use on the body and by the time you get there you will be familiar with the way it goes on.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  7. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,240

    nexxussian
    Member

    THANK YOU.

    I hadn't heard Naptha was available @ Home Despot.

    Is it labled as Naptha, or some other name?


    Edit....

    If I recall correctly, isn't Stoddard solvent Naptha?

    I can get that by the 5 gallon pail locally (I already have some).
     
  8. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,172

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    For you that is. I do a frame off on every ground up car I build and then I DRIVE IT.
    Just because it is a driver doesnt mean it cant be clean.
    I use tractor supply's valspar stuff, probably the same as rustoleum. When they stopped selling it I bought a lot of it to have around and I use the hardener as well. Takes awhile to dry but seems durable once it is. I use naptha to reduce it as noted on the can, home depot has it but here they only have it in smaller cans and not gallons.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013
  9. Thats a whole lot of green paper.
     
  10. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 748

    Ralphies54
    Member

    56, these guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill, I'ts just the frame not the body. Sand blast with 000 sand,prime with rustolem brown primer in spray cans,coat at any time after that with Gloss black rustoleum again in spray cans from the local hardware store.At about $4 a can you'll get out a lot cheaper than any thing else. the new cans spray in any position so easy-peasy. Top coats must be 2nd coated within 1hr or wait 48hrs. I just finished all the suspension parts on my 57 chev. and they look like they are powder coated amd I expect it to last 20 years,although "I" will not.This way no thinners harbners, clean up or bull s--t. Trust me on this.
     
  11. Did it come out real glossy and smooth?
     
  12. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 748

    Ralphies54
    Member

    Yes.It was as smooth as the metal. I didn't do any filling of the pits were threre was some, but the good metal was perfect and the finish reflected that. I wish I had taken some pictures but I didn't. Get a can and try it on some thing.Keep back 12-16 inches as you spray.
     
  13. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 748

    Ralphies54
    Member

    56 Degrease and wash with 409 and rinse before you blast.Do not metal prep or any thing.Prime asap.
     
  14. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,515

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Valspar from Tractor Supply: I bought 2 qts., and a customer gave me a quart he didn't use. Great single stage stuff! Affordable!
    Lots of running gear and 3 frames to paint, 1 set of 16" V8 wire wheels.

    Went back to Tractor Supply to get some more: Kevin (the mgr) told me the Calif EPA nazis goose-stepped in 2 days before and removed ALL stock! (lead content?)

    They still have it in other states...

    "May the urine of a thousand camels permeate the existance of crats in bureaus..."
     
  15. Damn..I would like to have tried that.
     
  16. Well it has already been primed and seems to have failed. You are saying to wash it with 409 on the primer then send it out for sand blast?
     
  17. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 748

    Ralphies54
    Member

    I'm just saying make sure all the grease is off the parts or the blaster will just drive the grease into the metal if he's not taking it down to white metal. Any contaminates will ruin the next step which is prehaps what happened to you all ready. Spray 1 med wet coat of primer.let that tack, do not sand,Spray top coats now or later.
     
  18. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 748

    Ralphies54
    Member

    If your doing bodywork to the metal[filler] Bondo or ? do it on top of the primer.
     
  19. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,122

    indyjps
    Member

    Naptha at home depot or lowes is generally next to the other thinners, at my stores, its in the small quart size, metal can.
     
  20. The blaster had rhe frame blasted to bare metal so I guess thats "white" ?? Should I use something to clean the bare metal? Like that green can "prep all" I had?
     
  21. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 748

    Ralphies54
    Member

    No, Bare blasted metal is perfectly clean so keep it that way. Unless he used very coarse grit just 1 coat of primer. Triple o grit is perfect [ooo]Also called 'Three ought'
     
  22. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,922

    Fenders
    Member

    Post 91
    Post 100
    Done !
     
  23. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 748

    Ralphies54
    Member

    Thanks for the backup Fenders, It's really a simple job unless you name is Foose
     
  24. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,172

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Tractor supply valspar with hardener, under $25 a gallon. You can do 3 to 4 frames with a gallon. The valspar is now gone but they do have another brand there for sale, I was worried that it was going to be water based but it is still oil. Little glossy for me, going to use the semigloss next which I like a lot better.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  25. Well I guess its back to the 1st step.. have to re blast the frame and now have to pay again.
     
  26. That looks amazing!
     
  27. Huh?

    Yeah, I doubt that Chip could figure out how to spray bomb a chassis with that top-shelf Rustoleum stuff.......Wow.
     
  28. Is the paint coming off the whole frame or just that one spot?
     
  29. Really just thatvone spot. I wasnt aware I was supposed to use hardener in the primer, I sas jist told for the gloss. So like a few have said who knows..maybe it isnt dry or who knows when it will?
     
  30. This ^^^has been asked a few times already.
    Also it looks like ( from the one pic posted) that coat #1 on the metal is not coming up, but the subsequent coat/s of primer are not stuck to the first.
     

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