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Pre prepping frame for paint issues

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56 ford custom, Jul 7, 2013.

  1. oltruckag
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 114

    oltruckag
    Member

    From your first post:

    A few days for any non-activated rustoleum product isn't long enough. That stuff will be drying for WEEKS. And it likely will not ever be hard enough to actually scuff without it loading up your scotchbrite. It will peal and roll up on you if you try to sand it before it's dry.

    Rusto does have activated product and 2 part epoxy product, that will cure better, but if you can still smell it, it's not dry.
     
  2. Dry primer needs to be sanded before recoating with more.
    Once more - the second coat of primer doesn't appear to be adhered or bonded to the first.

    Once more - with your fingernail, are you lifting :
    A* the second coat off of the first
    B* the primer off the metal
    C * some combination of those two.

    Remember , your top coat is only going to stick to what's underneath. What's underneath doesn't pass your fingernail test.

    So if its A, then sand down the lifting second coat and reapply it.
    If its B, then it's back to bare metal.
    If its C, I'd still take it back to bare metal.
    If its not sticking this will be easy and further ahead to do it now instead of after the top coat.

    Rustolem takes a while to dry, but "not dry yet" and "not stuck" are two very different things.
    Even when it's not fully dry it should still be well adhered to what ever is underneath.
     
  3. Ok here is the primer I used
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,001

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    Give that primer about a month to dry before you sand or scotch brite it !


     
  5. Cv740 requires 333402 thinner ( common name acetone)
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2013
  6. From left to right... Thinner, primer, hardner, gloss black then last is the prep-all
    [​IMG]
     
  7. This is the area that had came up but the rest seems good. I mean I know its not completely cured but the scotch brite scuffed up the rest with no issues. What should I do as of now? The first coat seams fine its just the last couple in that section came up and can come up.
     
  8. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,684

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    maybe try soda blasting the top coats off.
     
  9. This would be my bet. If you didn't sand it after blasting it will soak up wax and grease remover. It MUST be completely removed while still wet. It suspends the contaminants in the liquid so you can remove them. If it dries it just moves them around, and leaves a film.

    BTW I wouldn't use rust-oleum on a tractor let alone a car.
     
  10. I have spoken with multiple guys that have sprayed their whole frames with rustoleum and its still holding up from years ago..still looks great!
     
  11. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,320

    badshifter
    Member

  12. This ruined my day!!

    So this cant be used at all? It seems to be good just in that one spot it messed up
     
  13. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    use this:

    Rust-Oleum 7769830 Stops Rust, 12 oz. Spray, Flat Rusty Metal Primer


    works great
     
  14. Can by can gets super exspensive and ai already have multiple coats of primer on this frame.
     
  15. The way I read it is you need to use the primer you have before you put your top coat on. The top coat can also be applied dtm unless the surface has been blasted then you have to use the primer you have.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  16. I have spent all this money and cant let it go to waste. Im going to give it a shot! Can that little yellow bottle of hardner in the pic be used for the gloss black rustoleum?
     
  17. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member


    by all means keep doing what you are doing....
     
  18. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,125

    indyjps
    Member

    Man, I always thought rustoleum was pretty straightforward, I shoot a lot of it on equipment and its very forgiving. Someone else already posted the recommended thinner, I would say the thinner you are using is not compatible.
     
  19. Yeah im thinking the same. What brand and type should I use?
     
  20. hotrod40coupe
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,562

    hotrod40coupe
    Member

    My personal experience is I have the best results using product from the same manufacturer. You have a hodge-podge of chemicals there that my not be completely compatible. You are also using an industrial paint that is designed for machinery, not automobiles. I wouldn't use Rustoleum on anything that I cared about.
     
  21. I have never heard anyrhing bad about rustoleum before.
     
  22. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    VMandP Naphtha

    Can be used in place of Paint Thinner for oil-based paint, varnish and enamel when a faster drying time is desired. It can also be used when spraying to help prevent runs.

    amazon.com
     
  23. Is that American? I highly doubt I will find that local.
     
  24. ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,371

    ANDEREGG TRIBUTE
    Member
    from Bordertown

    Well sir with all due respect I guess you now have first hand knowledge.

    For answer see below, and the tech data that someone has been kind enough to link.
    And you get a big affirmative on using something "automotive" on my "auto" for paint.

    I think the advise you have been given here by these guys has been spot on..
     
  25. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    They used to sell it at home depot, my cousin and i were told it was the best thing to thin rustoleum for the camper shell we were painting because it dried faster.

    There are other brands as well, i just copied that off amazon so you could find it easy.

    You may have troulble finding it in California with all the water based paint laws.
     
  26. Ok so now I need to use acetone to reduce the primer..The hardner I posted a pic of is good?
     
  27. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    the hardner is for a different type of paint, not likely to work...
     
  28. I didnt buy it for the primer its for the gloss black. What brand or type do I need?
     
  29. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    alkyd enamel dries like concrete, it takes time, in the old days they said not to wash a newly painted car for 3 weeks.

    i doubt there is a hardner that will change how this paint works.

    your polyurethane catalyst is for polyurethane paint.
     
  30. So what you are saying is I dont need any hardner since its self hardning?
     

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