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Pre prepping frame for paint issues

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56 ford custom, Jul 7, 2013.

  1. Ok so I had the f100 frame sand blasted then I pre prepped it. I had used industrial rustoleum primer and thinned it out, layed a few coats down and let it cure/dry a few days. Now I am using scotch brite to scuff it up so I can spray the actual paint and the primer had came off a bit and is darker underneath. I can peel it up with a finger nail. What happened?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Did you metal prep the frame before priming? HRP
     
  3. Yes I did
     
  4. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 749

    Ralphies54
    Member

    Did you use the proper thinner? Maybe it shouldn't have been thinned at all and brushed on!
     

  5. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 749

    Ralphies54
    Member

    Did you use the metal prep according to the directions?
     
  6. What kind of prep did you use?,,was the Rustoleum primer a oil base type?HRP
     
  7. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 749

    Ralphies54
    Member

    The can says DTM which means "direct to metal" Do not use primer.
    You may have to remove it and start over.
     
  8. Dane
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,351

    Dane
    Member
    from Soquel, CA

    I'd do a test patch with no thinner.
     
  9. I've never heard of the prep or thinner,,I only use stuff for the automotive body shop,,,Just a thought,,has the paint thoroughly set up?,,has the weather been real humid or damp? HRP
     
  10. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,922

    Fenders
    Member

    Hard to believe anyone goes to this extent unless you are building a show vehicle...
    I've had good luck with Rustoleum red oxide primer, let it dry for a week, cover with Rustoleum black....
     
  11. I do it the way I was taught,,whether its a high dollar build for someone else or something I plan on keeping. HRP
     
  12. Exactly! You are right! I hate half ass work
     
  13. What is it you suggest I do since the primer has already been applied?
     
  14. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,737

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Almost looks like the primer went on to dry.
     
  15. It looks that way because I ha e scuffed it with scotch brite
     
  16. maybe the primer needs more time to dry?
     
  17. I have tried to find some information on the klean strip prep all and all I can find is wax and grease remover,,did you use this on the frame prier to applying the primer? HRP
     
  18. That is not a metal prep, it is merely a wax and grease remover. ( I was typing when you posted^)


    Also, the primer you used has no hardener? If not it never cures, it just dries. I am not surprised you are seeing it do that. The product you are using is an industrial product for a completely different purpose that to which you are using it for.
     
  19. Looks like the 1st coat of primer dried before the second coat went on.
    With your fingernail, are you removing all coats of primer back to bare metal? Or are you just able to pick off the top layer? Kind of like the second coat isn't stuck to first maybe?
     
  20. I had used that spray beforeninshot the primer. That can of paint isnt the primer its just the same brand I used.
     
  21. Yes I had used this before I shot the primer
     
  22. Im npt taking it pff im just able to pull it pff with my fingernail
     
  23. If it's easy to peel off there is some type of contamination between the metal and the primer. HRP
     
  24. Did you get all the wax and grease remover off before priming? I have seen some of them leave a film on the panel, thereby causing a bonding issue. The primer never really gets on the metal??
     
  25. This doesn't answer my question - not even a little
     
  26. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,010

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    You're saying the primer you used was alkyd enamel, right ?
    Alkyd enamel is a slow drying paint and stays somewhat soft.
    Way back when I started painting you had two choices,
    nitrocelulose lacquer or alkyd enamel.
    with todays paints, the catalysed acrylics & urethanes dry quicker & harder
    than alkyd enamel.
    Be sure your top coat color material is compatable with the base primer you use.
     
  27. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    what type of thinner does it say to use on the rustoleum can?
     

  28. Yes the first coat dried before the second. Thats what is supposed to happen. Right?
    No im not removing all coats with my nail im just saying that area is that easy to peel.
     
  29. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    If it's just that area, go back and sand it out, clean it up and reshoot the primer then the paint and blend it in as best you can. With Rustoleum stuff though, you have to let it dry for quite a bit before you shoot a topcoat over it. I like to give it about a week before topcoating, then let that dry about the same.
     

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