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Technical PPG 2050 high build epoxy review

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by anthony myrick, Nov 8, 2022.

  1. I’ve heard good stuff about this product. Wanted to try it. Not cheap but name brand epoxy isn’t cheap anyway.
    It’s a high build, direct to metal epoxy primer.
    it’s from the Vibrance line.
  2. Has a nice glossy finish (for a primer)

    A little grainy. I didn’t fully reduce.
    I will next time. It’s thick. My 1.8 gun struggled with it reduced 10%
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
  3. Sands OK. Great for epoxy.
    We let it sit over the weekend and started sanding yesterday.
    This is 2 full coats. Started with 220 followed by guide coat and 320.
    So far I’m impressed with the product.
  4. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 9,740

    Bandit Billy

    I spayed polyester primer on my PU last year and I used a 2.5. It's like spraying oatmeal.

  5. Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
    SS327, Atwater Mike and guthriesmith like this.
  6. It powered nicely while sanding. Most epoxies gum up. This one didn’t. But we also let it sit about 72 hours.
    Atwater Mike and Bandit Billy like this.
  7. 2 mils per dry coat is about 1/3 what a good poly will do. Don't see too many guys wanting to block out a car giving up that much build characteristic in addition to losing standability.
    guthriesmith likes this.
  8. 8 mill final build.
    2.5 mills per coat. Up to four coats.
    I can work with that.
    2 coats handled everything we needed on these fenders.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
    guthriesmith likes this.
  9. I generally use polyester on large or older stuff.
    I’ve seen a couple shops use this product on their restoration work. They claim it eliminated shrinkage issues.
    Urethane kinda bothers me. It shrinks up a lot in a cup. A painter friend of mine blames the “cottage cheese” look some cars have on urethane primers.
    I’ve used the DTM Clausen polyester and liked it. seems to be holding up well.
    applying polyester over epoxy can bite ya if you don’t allow the epoxy to cure for a day.
    I generally prime over epoxy after it sits over night.
    The epoxy I was using costs around $150 a kit. Then add for the polyester.
    This prices out about the same as using both products.
    Bandit Billy and guthriesmith like this.
  10. Was the price per gallon or quart?
  11. No quarts. Dang it
    This kit was around $325. Should make 2 gal sprayable.
    Not cheap.
    DP isn’t either.
    I usually use the PPG industrial epoxy. Around $150 per 2 gal set up.
    my paint guy said PPG is moving away from quart set ups. Not good for us small time guys.
  12. metlmunchr
    Joined: Jan 16, 2010
    Posts: 833


    Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see anything in the PPG docs that says this is epoxy.
  13. Well I be.
    It doesn’t mention what it is.
    The catalyst isn’t MEK. Looks like extra thick epoxy catalyst.
    Some message board guys call it epoxy. One guy said “hybrid epoxy”
    Now im curious.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
    Just Gary likes this.
  14. Tow Truck Tom
    Joined: Jul 3, 2018
    Posts: 935

    Tow Truck Tom
    from Clayton DE

    Anthony Thanks For the report
    Just Gary and anthony myrick like this.
  15. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 945


    Hmm. Now I’m curious also. Is the catalyst as thick as the CRE catalyst is? I’ve been using it instead of DP and really like it, but lately our local jobber has not been able to get any black in CRE or even EPX.
  16. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 5,630


    This is the kind of stuff the HAMB needs more of.

    Have you ever sprayed HOK KD3000? If so, how would you compare this product to that? Granted, the KD3000 can be sprayed as either a sealer or a high build depending on the ratio it's mixed at, but assuming the high build, how does it compare?
  17. I haven’t used any
    I’ve heard good things about HOK undercoats though.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
  18. Here is the catalyst
    It’s thick like STP
  19. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 945


    Looks like it. The CRE catalyst is like molasses right out of the fridge. :D
    anthony myrick likes this.
  20. I haven’t used CRE. I have EPX.
    No issues. It even sands decent.
    My ppg rep said it was old DP
    Mixes like old DP, 1:1.
    Smells like it
    Lays down better than the 2:1 epoxies.
  21. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 26,281

    Staff Member

    I use Tenaco epoxy. It is the same stuff that Squeeg's hot rods buys and re labels. really good stuff, high build easy sand but because it is epoxy you have to wait 2-3 days before sanding. Denny used this material exclusively on the Predator showcar that I own and he painted it in 2015 and there is zero sand scratch swelling and zero shrinkage of any kind and that car has a ton of custom bodywork. it has been a couple of years since I bought some but 2 gallons sprayable was 150 bucks tenaco.JPG denny5.JPG denny7.JPG

  22. I hear good things about Tamco.
    I generally use PPG as I have a supplier in town.
    Don’t have to order things if I run out or the temp changes.
    These fenders are for my 49 GMC Ive been putting off for about 20 years.
    I might actually paint one eventually
  23. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 26,281

    Staff Member

    Tenaco, which is what Squeeg's re labels as their product
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
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  24. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,474

    Dick Stevens

    Primer shrink tests

    anthony myrick likes this.
  25. Them too:)
    Moriarity likes this.
  26. But again the point is I can get poly's that will do that in one coat and can be sanding in 2 hrs. It will take me close to an hour just to spray the same build with the PPG. I am sure it's a great product but it's not a real substitute for a high build polyester primer
  27. Cool stuff.
    Thanks for posting.
  28. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 26,281

    Staff Member

    I think the key is that there is an advantage to using the same product (epoxy) from start to finish. I don't mind waiting several days to sand. We should not be in a hurry with this stuff anyhow as the longer you can wait between operations means less sand scratch swelling and less shrinkage
  29. A DTM Polly you can sand quickly
    I’m not applying polly over epoxy until it sits a day. Ain’t worth the possibility of having to scrape it all off.
    I even wait till the next day for urethane over epoxy.
    As far as film thickness needed, depends on the amount of body work or how pitted the metal could be.
    These parts I primed were finished off with 180/220. Then DAd with 320 on an interface pad to remove straight line scratches.
    A polly wasn’t needed.
    It was nice using a one step product.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2022
    guthriesmith and Tow Truck Tom like this.
  30. Dang skippy.
    Roll it out in the sun and work on something else.
    Let it shrink before ya sand it

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