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Powerglide swap to 265

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kickitrick, Feb 21, 2024.

  1. Kickitrick
    Joined: May 14, 2016
    Posts: 12

    Kickitrick
    Member

    Hello, the reason I'm contacting you, is if you would know if an aluminum powerglide would work with a 1956 265 in a 210. I'm wondering about the starter and anything else that could be affected? Any help would greatly be appreciated, thanks, Rick Screenshot_20240221-085355.jpeg
     
    tractorguy and chevy57dude like this.
  2. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,804

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    It will bolt to the block but a later starter won’t bolt to the block. But there is this option. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dck-10100
    That said. Been a long time since seeing a 56 265. Maybe someone will clarify if a 56 block can be drilled for a more modern style starter.
     
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  3. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,356

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    @Kickitrick …..I agree with @johhny Gee , but would suggest you search on line for an adapter plate for the starter. I seem to recall seeing such an item ‘somewhere’ in the not so distant past. :confused:

    Best wishes with your project.

    Ray
     
  4. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,804

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Here’s a 56 265 block. No starter holes upper right IMG_2479.jpeg

    Now here’s. later block (327). Note the starter holes upper right. IMG_2480.jpeg
     

  5. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Looks like 2 holes could be drilled, but the third not so much.
     
  6. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,804

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    That’s the thing. Is casting made thicker in those area’s like in later years??? I think not.
     
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 34,166

    Mr48chev
    Member

    They sell the adapter plate but you still have to contend with the front of the block mounts on the engine and rear miunt of the trans thing knocking out front seals in the trans unless you get the sidemount kit.
    Danchuk 10100 Engine Starter Plate for 1955-1956 Chevy Tri-Five with Small Block Chevy 265 V8 with Late Model Transmission
    Screenshot (903).png
    Danchuck is no longer in business though.

    one on ebay eBay item number:153226878328
     
  8. I’ve got a 265 distributor if you don’t have one
     
  9. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    YOU NEVER KNOW!
     
  10. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,804

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    IMG_2483.jpeg IMG_2481.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2024
    chevy57dude likes this.
  11. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 31,599

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    yeah, you are going to lose the bellhousing mount. as stated earlier the front motor mounts and the trans tail mount is not a good combination. there are no side mount bosses on a 265 so you can't use side engine mounts. What is the reason you want to do this? Maybe hang a clutch pedal get an early bellhousing with the side mounts and starter mount and put a 4 speed in it?
     
  12. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,356

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Obviously, the starter mounting is the greater challenge here. As for the front mounts….yes, there are only bolt ‘bosses’ on either side of the timing cover. However, IIRC, Chevy used a sort of ‘crossmember’ or ‘yoke’ one piece mount on early Corvette engines that spanned the front of the engine and was supported by frame mounts at or near the frame rails. Aftermarket mounts (mostly for ‘32/‘48 Fords) were available that were loose copies of the Vette piece. That style provides the resistance to engine torque that the later side mounts provided while using less space, but they worked.

    As for the starter mount, I can imagine the possibility of fabricating a metal plate ….maybe a 1/2” thick…that adds some ‘meat’ to the block in the starter location. It’s just a concept…may or may not be viable. A consequence of that idea is that spacing the starter downward also takes the drive gear farther away from the flexplate teeth. Moving the stock starter inboard may cause starter to pan interference. An aftermarket geared hi-torque mini-starter may help with that. :confused:

    “Oh, what a tangled web we weave when first we practice to modify” :( (apologies to the author)

    Ray
     
  13. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 1,066

    patsurf

    were those thru the water pump bolts?
     
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  14. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 31,599

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Yup 3EB9E269-BDE8-46DE-A4FD-B3D83B46EF83.jpeg
     
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  15. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,356

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL


    Perhaps on the Vette….but the aftermarket mounts dipped below the crank pulley and came up along side and utilized the same threaded bosses on the front of the block that the stock passenger car ‘pedestal’ mounts attached to, not the water pump attach points.

    Ray
     
  16. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 34,166

    Mr48chev
    Member

    Last edited: Feb 22, 2024
    Moriarity likes this.
  17. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,804

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Danchuk is probably who you’re thinking of? But since Woody’s has taken over well, things just are not the same.

    But here’s the side mount kit for later transmissions. POL is just west of where Dunchuk was. Good thing, because Woody’s is just too damn far to drive to get parts. IMG_2486.jpeg
     
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