Technical powder coating a brake master clyinder (can it be done?)

Other than removing all the "innards" out of the bore, (cups, springs, plungers, etc). Having the powder coater tape off the insides, bore, port fittings, lid mating surface.
Anything else I am (not) supposed to do? What do need to look for? Thanks

 

Make sure its thouroughly degreased. Powdercoaters usually have a wash process but cast iron is hard to clean properly.

 

Assume you just want the look, when you open the hood?
If so, Put fitting plugs in the ports take the rubber off a cap and trim it, I’d think just the outside would get done.

 

I'm thinking that after you strip it, a good warming (NOT BAKING) in the oven might extract a lot of the oils out of the iron pores. then a decent alcohol wash.

Roger

 

Yes! Did mine several years ago. Still looks great. Brake fluid dosn't effect the powder coat, if it's properly done. Just took mine to the powder coater and let them take it from there.

 

I had an O/T aluminum master cylinder powder coated, and after 3-4 years the DOT3 fluid caused the coating to bubble and peel. Could have been poor prep I guess, but maybe using DOT5 would have resulted in a different outcome.

Just my experience. I'm sure results vary.

 

When I owned a powder coating shop(30 yrs ago) I did several. Yes, they need to be properly cleaned and no, the coating is not (conventional) brake fluid proof but is more resistant than most paints. I occasionally see one I did back then and it still looks perfect but I'm sure the owner has never left brake fluid on the exterior.

 

This, for sure. Equally important is that the part has a good 'tooth' on the surface for the powder to bond to the part. You definitely want to the sandblast the surface. You don't want to be skimpy with the powder either, you want a good, thick coat. I also don't use rubber plugs for the line fitting holes, I prefer to use sacrificial fittings as I get better coverage around the holes that way. I've coated a half-dozen for myself and others, haven't had one peel or lift yet. I use Eastwood gloss black powder if that makes a difference (and I think it does). Lighter colored powders will sometimes stain over time.

And if you want a rust-proof battery tray, this is the stuff. Do any repairs needed, then blast it spotlessly clean of rust. Do a heavy coat. After it cures, pre-heat the tray to 200 degrees and spray it again, then cure again. I'll do this at least three times to get a very thick coating (I've done as many as five times). After 10+ years on several of them, zero rust has reappeared. You will get some staining eventually, but that's it...