Por 15

Anyone have any experience with Por 15?
Go Devil

 

Yes, if you follow the directions it works well.

It is not UV resistant so if you coat something that is getting direct sunlight it will fade, the color only, not the the rust prevention.

There are some diferent products available that do the same thing.

Zero rust and a few others... I'm sure someone else will tell ya.

 

I know the UV eats it up.
I am trying Rust Bullit, and it seems to be working well.
No top coat needed.

 

Their products work great...even the paint, just wish they had more selection of paints.

 

Yes, lots of people. I personally swear by the stuff. Some others like other products. There are numerous threads already on the subject, no need to rehash it again... A search might help...

Just a few suggestions...

Ventalation
Disposable brushes
Don't get it on your skin or clothing.

 

had good luck with it on floor boards. I've brushed and my friend has sprayed it. It levels out pretty good when brushed on but it goes farther if you spray it.

however, I will probably go with rust encapsulator from eastwood since I saw this. Yes it is posted on the eastwood site but it was done independantly by a third party.

POR 15 vs Eastwood rust encapsulator

 

I've been using it for years and that article seems a wee bit biased. Hell it sounds like an advertisement. I've never experienced the problems this guy had. Though I must say I usually don't spray it. I use a brush and mainly use it on frames, suspension parts, floorboards, and the inside fenders and tailgate of my truck. My truck has been in the sun pretty much everyday for the last 8 months, 3000 miles to the HAMB Drags and back, hauled trash, scrap, and not a problem....

 

I love the stuff.
It doesn't hold worth a crap on very smooth or plated metal, like a zinc or cad-plated sway bar. Perfect on something with "teeth" like a bead blasted brake backing plate or other suspension parts.
It will get chalky looking in UV, as discussed.
Their engine paints are fantastic, and they've got some real odd-ball colors ('54 Buick Green! and others).

The post on spraying it to make it go farther is a great tip--I hadn't thought of it, but makes sense.
It takes a whole lot of effort to get a run or streaks if you brush it on--usually levels out (as said) very well and brush strokes disappear.
Humidity in the air makes it "kick over", so you can paint on really humid days, unlike regular paint. (damn handy in Florida)

As a side note, I've got 4 gallons of their Gray that I'm going to paint my garage floor with, then top-coating it with their gray top-paint to protect against the UV. I spoke with one of their reps about it, and they're super-paranoid about getting moisture in the paint before it's applied: according to them, if one drop of sweat rolls off your nose and lands in the open can, the can is wasted. I don't know about all that, but...
-Brad

 

I prefer Zero-Rust

 

Hey Fellas,
Thanks for all of the info!
Second question,
Anyone have an Idea of the amount needed to do the frame and axles of a Model A?
Go Devil

 

jsut to throw in the 2 cents worth...painted a whole 1946 chevy truck 2 tone with green and black por 15, painted it with foam brushes...damn good job. we got no rust, and the jobnb lasted about 8 years with minimal fading..I'm in love with the stuff...gonna paint the house with is some day....hahaha

 

I think I am going to try this stuff on the underside of my shoebox. I have surface rust under the entire car but no holes thank God. I don't think the integrity of the metal is compromised too much and I don't want to do a frame off. Is this stuff easy enough to work with that I can get it on by sliding under the car while up on jackstands? Do you suggest using a brush or should I load it into a gun and spray it? Maybe find access to a lift or pit? Would thinner compromise it's effectiveness? How bad does it run or drip? I am just getting some ideas on the best way to attack the rust before it does any damage.

 

It's easy enough to work with. In your case I would defiantely go with the brush. Don't thin it. Hit the areas you're gonna do with a wire brush to knock the loose rust off and go to it. Though wear clothes you don't care about, and a respirator if you have one. Safety glasses are a good idea if you're gonna lay under the car. It doesn't run or drip to bad, but like I said it doesn't come off of clothes or skin. A lift or pit woul dmake the job easier but I have done it on Jack stands...

 

Thanks. After reading my own post I think I made it sound like I have more rust than I do. It's not flaking or anything it just looks like I drove through a really dusty road. I think I will try the brush anyways. That way I don't have to worry about overspray.

 

I sprayed it under my 50 chevy. I used the silver so I could see where I painted....worked great. So well, I also painted the entire inside of the rusted body. Sprayed it too but I used a good respirator.
I followed the directions [for once] and brushed it where the belt line had rusted under the stainless moldings. While it was still tacky, I shot primer over it for adherance and later gave it a primer/sealer coat. Worked just fine except where I painted the dash. The UV turned the silver POR a light, puke green. The can says it won't hold up to UV and they're right.

 

Here is a copy of a post I did before...hope it helps...Tom

POR-15
Here are some tips on using POR-15 Restoration Products that I have used. POR-15 is a rust preventative paint and is made to stop rust.
1.Get the smallest amount you can. A quart will do two coats on a 61 Olds floor. A gallon will go a long ways.
2.It is not a topcoat as it will fade when exposed to the Sun. It will not change the characteristics of protection.
3.As far as preparation, all you really need to do is brush off the rusty chunks. It is not necessary to media blast the parts since POR is made to stick to rust. It will not stick to a painted surface. You can put it on new steel or blasted steel but it needs to free of dirt, grease, paint, oil, etc.
4.It is moisture cured so it is important to keep moisture away from it. Once you open the can, it starts to cure and that is the reason not to buy more than you need.
5.Don’t put the can in a shaker – that will put air bubbles in it. Don’t shake it up and down. Roll the can and go from side to side.
6.I very seldom take the lid off the can. Instead, I take a nail or punch and make two holes in the lid, pour out what I need into a plastic cups, put masking tape over the holes, put it in a plastic bag, then put it in the refrigerator (in the garage, of course!) and get to work. It will last a long time like that – 6 months or more. Even if it starts to get thick, it is still usable and can be thinned with a little POR Thinner, if needed. POR-15 comes in 4 colors; Gloss Black, Semi-Gloss Black, Gray, and Silver. Unfortunately, the silver needs to be opened just because of the characteristics of the paint. It needs to be stirred.
7.If you do open the can, make sure you get the lid cleaned before you put it back on the can. If there is any POR on the lid, it will not open again.
8.POR-15 looks thick in the can but you must be careful not to put too much on or it will run.
9.I have had lots of people ask me if it can be sprayed with a paint gun. We have not done that in out shop but it can be. Spray directions are on the can. I have put it in a glass jar and used propellant to spray and that worked well in an area where I could not reach with a brush. If you spray it, don’t use your favorite gun as it will not come off it if happens to dry.
10.I use a foam brush or a regular paintbrush. Foam brushes work well on smooth surfaces but wear out quickly on rough surfaces. Paintbrushes are easier to get into tight or blind spots. Don’t get a real cheap brush, as it will lose bristles. I use a medium priced brush – about $1.00 for a 1”. Brush cleaning is optional. I usually throw the brush away since it takes more thinner than it is worth and it seems like the brush always gets stiff anyway. Foam brushes will not clean.
11.Use rubber gloves. If you get it on your skin and it dries, it will have to wear off of you. It will come off easily with some thinner if it is still wet. I have spilled some on a cement floor and it usually comes up when it dries by using a putty knife.
12.Drying time will vary with the temperature and humidity. I have found that it will take a minimum of 2 two hours and a maximum of 4 hours in dry weather - it can dry in less than 1 hour in 70% and above humidity. A second coat can be applied when you can drag your finger across the surface and not get paint on your finger. It should be a little more than tacky. One tip: Sometimes I use Semi-gloss first and then Gloss Black as the 2nd coat. With Gloss, it is hard to tell where you have already painted.
13.If the painted surface will be exposed to sunlight, you may want to use a topcoat. POR will fade over time though its protection characteristics will not change.
14.As with any paint, the preparation is the key. Do it right and it will work great!
15.Questions? Let me know. I will try to help.

restorit - Tom

 

Just a tip, if you open the can put a piece of saran wrap over it when you put the lid back on, makes it much easier to open back up.

 

Anybody ever use "Must for Rust" from tinmantech?
http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.html

 

i tried that must for rust stuff and wasn't impressed....you can get it at home depot

 

One pint will do it and you'll have some leftover...It goes a loooooong way.

 

It sucks, it is a crutch and a cheesy way to not do it right. Clean all rust off and topcoat with a real product.

 

I used it on my daily driver '72 F100.. I brush painted the inner fenders, bed and inside of the tailgate and the body seams and painted over top.. It has been a year and no rust. Works good, don't get it on your hands, though!