So I've read the whole thread and am thinking of doing my interior floorboards, is dynamat gunna stick to this? Or what prep am i gunna have to do to get it to stick? any hints/tricks/tips.
Paint it, let it cure for a week or two, stick the dynamat. Once you do the proper steps for the POR, peel-n-stick deadeners are just fine. BTW foil faced carpet jute is a better sound deadner dollar for dollar when talking floors. Dynamat's more for the side/top surfaces. good luck
Anyone know where to get por at in the houston area? Went to home depot today and they didn't have it.
I ended up grinding out all of the permetex Extend, and recoating the floors with POR 15 after the Olds sat outside under a tarp for a winter...and...I brushed it on the OUTSIDE of the gas tank to stop some fuel leakage temporarily(five years ago). And I used it to seal up some of my amateur welding on an oilpan. yeah, I'm sold on the stuff. But, nothing shiny or greasy, or it wont stick.
Don't have anything worthwhile to offer, other than thanks to all of the above for a very informational thread! The above info is worth thousands of dollars of knowhow and experience! -90% jimmy
Maybe she can convert that stiffy you got to just a soft wet spot. Good luck and remember herpies is the gift that goes on giving. Be careful
Ive used Por 15 and like it. I'm trying a product called Chassis Saver that is the same base but cheaper.
Hey how does the por and chassis silver fill in pin holes? Is it pretty tacky? Although some pin holes I wouldn't exactly call them pin holes more like the size of lincolns head on the penny.
I just used the Chassis Saver satin black on the frame to my dad's truck. It's very close to Por15 from what i can tell, but, is 100 a gallon. From the info i read before using it, it seem's to have the same type make up at Por15 etc.. I put two coats on it..time will tell how it holds up as this will be a year-round truck.. It is pretty thick, and will fill small pits in the metal providing they are not heavy scale type pits. I sandblasted the frame before i shot it too. It said that would give the best adhesion etc... I even used the silver chassis saver on his steel wheels..looked good..hopefully it holds up the same. I'd use it again. Tony.
I have a yard decoration that is an old cast Iron Pump. It was rusty as hell so I decided to give it the old POR-15 test. Used Marine clean, there Metal prep, used the POR-15 silver, (2 coats), and top coated it with chassis coat black. That was 3 years ago and the pump still looks like I did it last week. Just follow the instructions and you'll be a happy camper.
Paint isn't going to fill those. You need to weld. A couple of tiny pin holes, you can get away with POR-15.
I've used both, but I tend to use stuff from Ace, Home Depot, Lowes more and more. The shipping on POR is really up there because its supposed to be Hazardous Waste I guess. That and if you ever have to use the POR a 2nd time its usually junk and your out that much more. Nothing against POR, I like it but I'm on a buget!! Michael
Somebody gave me some POR15 once, it was great. I didn't paint it over rust however, I sandblasted the rust off then put it on. When I buy my own for frames and such, I use rustoleum. The price is right.
I just replaced my floors form the toe boards to the back.And when I took out my back seat I noticed the damaged panel underneath it. Yes sir I am leaning more to cutting out the pitted metal panel and weld in a new one .I just have never used it before and didn't know if it was really tacky.But I will be using the por15 on the complete new floors and welds both inside and under the vehicle as a preventive measure for corrosion. Thanks.
If you use the POR on your new floorboards, you just wasted your time and money. The POR only works on old rusty stuff, it will come off the clean metal and painted surfaces in sheets in a few months. Just ask how I know. Gene
you can paint over Por 15, I just did it last weekend. I just followed there intructions. first off it is best to use a ENAMEL based paint not laquer. use marine clean, and then metal ready just like the instructions say. then when compleley dry paint on the por15. while it is still "tacky" spray a light coating of your primer on.. NOT HEAVY JUST A LIGHT COATING. once it is dry go ahead and put a coat of primer, then your paint. as far as quality... unsurpassed. seriously, a few years ago I painted some por15 on a door panel of a car out back. the bottom of the door has compleley rusted off EXCEPT where the por 15 was applied... it just plain stopped the rust. NOW.. it CAN rust from the back side to the por 15 though. I just bought a gallon of marine clean, a gallon of metal ready, and a 6 pack of black por 15. I plan to paint the inside of my floors in the 53 and the underside of the floors and frame. my experience with it has been great. well worth the extra money. if your on a budget... well then it doesnt' matter, por 15 is not cheap and if your buying based on cost and not quality then this is not the product for you...... it works AWSOME on window openings too.... if you have your window out I HIGHLY recommend painting the rusty metal with it... I wouldn't paint over it unless it is a part that the quality doesn't matter, the part I painted over is just barely seen, so it didn't have to be perfect,, just red.LOL..... I have no connection with the company except that I'm a customer,, but if quality is what your after.. its the stuff to buy. ON a side note....... The ONLY panel on my car that had rust...... was the only panel that was undercoated...... now that it's rusty I'm sealing the inside of the panel and underside with por15 so it doesn't happen again....
these instructions are from there website 2. Make sure surface to be painted is bone-dry. Use a hairdryer if necessary. 3. You must use Metal-Ready fi rst if you are painting POR15 on new steel, galvanized metal , aluminum, or any smooth metal surface. 6. If your job had to be degreaed or cleaned , you must use Metal-Ready before applying POR-15. 8. Use POR-15 in well ventilated areas only. We recommend the use an organic vapor particulate respirator, NIOSH/MSHA approved, when applying POR-15. If you are spray painting, you must use an airsupplied respirator. 10. POR-15 should not be applied over other paints. It is UV sensitive and must be topcoated with an opaque paint if left exposed to the sun. note number 8!!!! DO NOT SPRAY THIS STUFF WITHOUT AN AIR SUPPLIED RESPIRATOR!!!! not a joke, not just a safety warning to be ignored.. do not do it... brushed on is one thing, but if you SPRAY this stuff it is NASTY, and could be fatal or REALLY bad....
I was reading some of the instructions and you have to rinse off the areas after using the marine clean don't know if that will work inside a car. Maybe I can just paint the new floors on the inside and apply the por only on the underside of my car. Is there anything I could brush on the welds only inside of the car to help it from rusting in those areas?
if the floors are NEW then por 15 is really not the stuff to be using,, same as using it over NEW welds. Por15 is really made for old rusty stuff. OR.. sand blast or ruff the hell out of it... if you sandblast you don't have to use the marine clean..... its in there instructions also. like others here have said... and I'll say it again... it is for SEASONED metal... IE pitted, rough, rusty. not for new metal. also, you don't apply it over paint. if you put it over paint (per their intructions) you could get rust in the spots that still have paint. it is made to go directly onto BARE SEASONED metal. it's one of those products that if used right,,, in the right application,, just can't be beat... i'm going to do the Bottom of my front splash shield on the 53 pontiac with it. the top is painted. they usually rusted from the bottom up..... I am also going to paint the bumber mounts with it... I will take some pictures this weekend of the process....
I use POR over new metal a lot. New floor installs, body patches, even sandblasted frames and suspension parts. It's a tough paint, why limit it to rusty parts? Just sand or lightly etch the new parts before painting them.
Everything I've heard about POR says that it needs a good, roughed up surface to stick. You can use it over new stuff, but I would probably take some 36 or 40 grit to it first.