I want to try this stuff but I dont really wanna hose down my interior for there prep cleaner stuff.(I think its a rust converter.) Is this the only way. Sorry, I know my threads r kinda lame but i wanna do it right the first time.
Can u grind off the por15 to do spot jobs? I wanted to protect the metal and later grind the paint off cut,weld etc. and then recoat the fixed spot. Can I do this with that stuff?
Well, I've never used the stuff, and I suppose there are alternatives for prep. That said, I think you'd get best results "Using as directed". The manufacturer didn't just guess when they wrote those directions.
POR-15 is on there once applied. You could probally grind it back off later but thats a waste of money. That stuff is pricey.
Well then I must ask, is it wise to be hosing down the floor of my interior? Im sure i can blow some air in some of the crevices but i dont wanna add more rust where not seen.
Only reason i wanna do it after is because the car is gonna sit outdoor soon. No windows, decklid, hood.....etc. Ive learned to use the black plastic tarps instead of those fuckin blue tarps. But I always seem to get a bit of water more rust somewhere. Plus on top of all that its already stripped 65%.
If you do not use the prep cleaner, the por15 will work okay, but will scratch off fairly easy. If you follow the directions, then it is almost like powder coating. You can sand it off, but as others have said, that stuffs expensive.
what hosing? when I applied it, I scrubed all the loose crud off, then used their prep. works great, I did some grinding to accomodate changes and the recote blended just like origional. but try to do your welding first as the stuff will burn
I covered the whole inside of my 34 with it. It's really good stuff and very pricey. I would wait to paint until you are ready to cover. It's 39.00 a pint here in Wa... not sure where your from as far as price there but that's expensive in my book. You can grind off later for like gound and stuff but once it's on it's on. Watch out for drips on your skin. It will NOT come off for weeks. Had the shit on my nose for close to two weeks. Sucked goin to work like that too! Buy a tarp and tarp the shit outta your ride, don't do the por 15 till your ready.
If it's gonna be in the grass, roll out a tarp on the ground first. The moisture from the grass will "boil" up into the belly of the car. Roll the car onto the tarp and pull all four sides up... tie them to the car. Put the other tarp on OVERLAPPING this first tarp... tying around the belly and ends. Presto! instant car-cocoon.
It will actually help the POR 15 set. It works better in damp or high humidity situations if I remember. Its been a while but its good stuff!!
I did a lot of looking at POR15. Expensive. Also, was reading a 4X4 thread (learning about trailing arm suspensions...) and saw where the guy followed directions and had it fall off in sheets. He mentioned, as well as others on the board, that it sometimes just doesn't stick, even if you do it right. I can't see how it would be better than a good epoxy or enamel paint. Especially considering it's in the interior. I'd just paint it with a good enamel paint and then a sound deadener and an insulator.
I used it on the underside of my 40 Coupe floor pan. Knocked the loose stuff off and washed it down. Let dry and followed the directions and it was easy to apply. Just wear rubber gloves. If it gets on any of your skin, it's there until it wears off. After several hours it was still tacky. I threw an old piece of carpet down under the car and poured a bucket of water on it. With in a half an hour the por-15 was dry to touch. That was 4 years ago and still looking good. As for being expensive, I didn't think it was bad as some of the other coatings. A quart will go a long way. I did the whole bottom of my car with two coats and still had a third of the can left.
This is correct, I've used it a bunch. If You prep the rust correctly(acording to the instructions) it will last along time. If you don't... I've had mixed results. If you paint it over clean metal, you are throwing your money away and not using the product correctly, and it will "peel of in sheets". If I remember correctly... For POR-15 To cure correctly, the paint robs the oxygen from the rust therefor stopping it from getting any worse or growing, "permenantly stopping rust" as they claim. I like the product myself but if you are feeling lazy about the required prep work, the Eastwood rust encapsulator is more forgiving. I still don't understand what you are trying to accomplish, but I hope my 2cents helps in your decision.
The POR Marine clean is for de-greasing parts, your interior shouldn't be greasy. So you shouldn't have to hose out the interior. Just make sure you remove any flaky stuff and vacuum the dirt and dust out. I used the 'Metal Ready' and then painted the inside of my roof,firewall,back panel and floors (inside and out) with POR-15. Looks good if I say so myself. It covers real well and brushes on easily. I've had no problems with peeling so far. It is expensive but 1 pint goes a long way,I bought the 6 pack of smaller tins. It's slightly dearer this way but you waste less. Once a tin's opened it's a bitch to re-seal and save.
It will break down in direct sun light if not top coated as stated in their instructions. So you will have to cover the car when its out side.
Your not doing something right, if you apply to clean metal you use metal ready, it's a por 15 metal conditioner that etches the bare metal and leaves a zinc phosphate coating. Iv'e used this stuff for years and I wouldn't use anything else. Iv'e got parts I painted several years ago and you can't scratch it off with a key. Plus like said before, it's pricey, but goes a long way.
Why is it that some folks think directions from a manufacturer shouldn't be followed? Do as they say, and it will probably work! I have been using it for over 25 years. Only had a few failures. Clean, clean clean! No oil, grease, or water on the surface! Sand, or metal prep clean metal. Wire brush the loose stuff off of rusty metal. Don't let water get into the POR! Don't paint it on damp surfaces! Though humid conditions will accelerate curing. Put on 2 coats, 12-24 hours apart. If painting over it, be sure to paint or primer the POR while it is just tacky...paint won't stick to it if it's dry, unless you sand it (you REALLY don't want to do that!) or use POR's "Tie Coat". Don't get it on your skin, or good clothes! Once dry it doesn't come off!
I was using it on my '50 Chevy and after I was done had some that I had poured out left over. You can't put it back in the can, so I just started painting inside the doors where I could get with the brush and where the sound-proofing stuff had come off the door skin. Long story short, it stuck great and seems to love it in there. But the doors were all rough surface rust inside. It has to have something to bite into, or it falls off.
It says in the directions that when u use one of there preps (I think there was 2 kinds.) u have to hose it down well. Just like rust-mort. I did a lot of looking at POR15. Expensive. Also, was reading a 4X4 thread (learning about trailing arm suspensions...) and saw where the guy followed directions and had it fall off in sheets. He mentioned, as well as others on the board, that it sometimes just doesn't stick, even if you do it right. The pealing off in sheets thing happened to me with the rust-mort. I think its because u have to get the residue off the top coat before painting. With the por15, not sure. Really? Wow! I mean thats a small car but still. Thanks, good to know. topcoat what? the por15?
I have seen POR15 peeling off of clean new metal, twice. One control arm, one tie rod, both DOM. Both had the same thing in common, the surface was virgin and smooth. It had not been sanded or scuffed, in any way.
So if theres rust do u have to scotchbrite it a little to give it a tooth or the rust helps it adhere? im thinkin about lettin my exterior rust a little so i can rust-mort it. Since its gonna rust anyway. If theres a lot of rust, wont it leave a bumpy texture?
I think the hosing down refers to the rust converter in fact if you follow 3 steps it recommends flushing the cleaner/ degreaser and the converter with water. The converter needs to be neutralized. Grease and oil needs to be flushed away. converter works as an etch for zink-seal or gall <o></o> If its dry and has surface rust it will work well with just removing the loose stuff, scuff up (scuff it up good 150 -80 grit) any smooth parts and paint it on- done. <o></o> <o></o> I have use it on rust repairs a lower door skin, and was impressed how the por paint sealed the door frame and the fold of the new door skin. . . .<o></o>
A very old tech sheet said to leave clean metal out until it rusted, now they sell you metal ready. the POR stands for Paint Over Rust, not paint over shiny metal. The kids Rambler is the POR poster child. forget scotchbrite on metal... 180 grit on a DA. especially the placed you just ground the paint off, sand all the shine off. Or it will peel. And weld first, it releases Isosyanates when you burn it.
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