I did use the search button on this! The last post about this was over a year ago and my question is , Anyone that used this on their frame and suspension since then had any problems yet? A few people said that it would come off in sheets others said it was hard as rocks. If it comes off in big chunks is this because the surface wasn't prepared correctly? From what I have read it seems to be a good product.
On suspension parts, you might want to cover it with a semi-gloss black. Otherwise it gets chalky after time. I haven't heard anything about it coming off in sheets. --Matt
Never had a problem with it coming off. No sheets, no chunks, no problems... It will gray when exposed to the sun, but will take a bit to do it. I like it and use it regularly.... I always brush it on...
The only time I heard about sheeting was when exposed to gasoline. Give the rust treatment from permatex a try as well. I used it on some parts, and can't get the stuff to chip even when tapping with a hammer. I'm just not sure on paint adhesion for it. I used Eastwood RI on my Chrysler with good results.
My understanding: POR stands for Paint Over Rust, it is intended to be applied over a rusty,or sand blasted surface. If it came off "in sheets",I would suspect it was applied over new steel, that wasn't cleaned properly.
It Will Peel Off On Brand New Sheet Metal Like Repop Floors. We Always Scuffed It A And Havnt Had A Problem Sence.
I use it quite a bit. I've used it on brand new metal and on rusty metal. I've never had any problems. I think if someone had a problem it was because they didn't follow directions.
Had a buddy that didn't think he needed the Metal Ready prep solution that they sell. He had to scrape off what didn't fall off. I did it totally by the book and haven't had a problem.
I've had great luck with POR-15. No adhesion problems, though I have heard of problems if it isn't prepped right. One note: Make sure and over coat it if it is a part that might be exposed to sunlight. It is UV sensitive, and can get chalky or fade. I just hit it with some rattle can over it, and it has held up really well.
"Auto Restorer" did an extended time test & found Rust Encapsulator held up better than the other tested products, including Por 15. " Auto Restorer" does not accept advertisments so I trust thier recommendations. Mark
the bigest problem for paint failure is either wrong or not enough prep.Most paint will do what the manufactors say it will do if done right.They put a lot of time and money into research before the stuff hits the shelves.
If that is supposed to be a before picture there seems to be an awful lot of paint and stuff still on there. And your pic of after looks weirdly greasy for some reason.
We used metal prep following the cleanup. we did not use it on the firewall. This is right after soaking and then prep. It was really clean. I am not sure why. Do you store it in a fridge before using. The guy that helped us do it had the por -15 in his. I just replaced what we used. Not saying it is poor quality because I have heard great things that is why I used it. I have heard about the ecapsolator but have not tried it.
There's also Zero Rust. I don't know if any current HAMBers are dealers. I know that 286Merc is, and he may still buzz in and out of here. Try him; the stuff is different and high quality. It doesn't get chalky, and is used on off-shore oil rigs.
I've also had good luck with Por-15. For the most part I've prepped using Marine Clean and Metal Ready and only enountered problems when it was exposed to gasoline. Exposure to sunlight makes it turn a chalky grey, but from I can tell sun doesn't change it's rust proofing or adhesion properties at all.
I have followed the directions to the letter, and have had it peal off in sheets. I have had it peal off sand blasted surfaces and have had it peal off new metal. Where I painted it over rust, the metal rusted away faster then an area on the same part that was unprotected. Don't think they will ever sell me more of that stuff. Gene
I used it on my T frame & was ahppy with it, I DA'd the surface, de grease it,& painted it on.I used a sponge brush & it never flowed, always had streaks.After about a year is started peeling off I ended up sanding it off & just spraying it with enamal.It probably is good, but i don't think its worth the Prep hassle!!And it did get chaulky after awhile. But on the other hand there POR header paint is excellant!! really good shit. jimV
When I was living in Colorado I redid a tri-5 frame with POR. Before I committed to it I covered an old crossmember which I cut out, preped it, painted it with the POR, and then covered it with the chassis black they provide. I then left it outside in the back yard for 6 months (I got deployed overseas). I knew I was going so I thought this would be a good test on the stuff. It sat outside in the snow, rain, and the sun at 6000" elevation. When I got back I cleaned it off with a water hose and saw MAYBE a slight color change in the coating. None peeled off and was rock solid. I then did the whole frame. IMO - good stuff. During the reassembly of the frame, I dropped a hammer on the top rail and almost chit as I thought I chipped the paint. Nope, not even a scratch. my .02
Prepped my frame to the letter by their instructions as I read prep was VERY important. Even used their prep chemicals... Several areas peeled off within a year - and this is on a show truck that is never very dirty or driven in the winter. Save your money and just brush on black rustoleum. Two coats over so-so prep work and haven't had a problem since!
I have been using POR-15 for years, there was a 'learning curve' involved, I guess I could describe my experience this way, When it says "paint over rust", it MEANS to paint over rust! if the surface is not visibly rusty, DO NOT put POR-15 on it, unless you are willing to risk having to strip it all off again. I have never had any problems with it when it was applied to rusty metal, but where there was any old paint or unrusted metal, the POR-15 could be peeled off like cellophane. Now when I use it I always strip the metal of all old paint first, scuff or lightly sandblast, and let sit a few days until a light coating of rust forms, if the weather is too dry, I spray down the metal with water occasionally. (I even experimented with using salt water to speed up the rusting process, this works but you have to sand the entire surface lightly and flush thoroughly or the finish will eventually form blisters, -because of this, I don't recommend this process) The most common problem I have had here in Michigan is with dramatic temperature changes, if the metal is exposed to freezing temperatures before the paint is able to cure completely it will form surface 'bubbles' that make a very rough and unattractive surface. (when this happens, I have found that by hitting the area with a heat gun or torch, the POR-15 will liquefy and may be wiped right off with a rag, then if the temps will remain warm enough, recoat. These considerations out of the way, I love the product, I have items around here that were painted with POR-15 ten to fifteen years ago, and still look almost as good as the day they were finished. We had a cast iron bathtub that we had 'professionally' reglazed with epoxy, when the finish chipped and peeled within a year (and the company said they could not fix the problem) we brush painted the tub with POR-15 White, the job turned out beautiful and has held up for over 3 years now, because of the style and placement of this tub, replacement would have ran near $5000, we spent less than $100 and it looks as good as new! I am not, and never have been a dealer, I have always ordered all of my supplies factory direct.
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