Hey guys, I just got back from the Kyana swap meet in Louisville and went to talk to the POR-15 guys. I asked them about the truck floor on my Apache, but wanted someone else's opinion. They said the acid etch/cleaner stuff would work really well under the POR-15 to allow it to stick better. I was looking to use some POR-15 since it is cheaper than buying epoxy primer for the interior floor of the pickup. They were trying to sell me overpriced quarts for $55 each at the show. Locally I found some for $40 per quart. Am I still being screwed on this price for $40? Is there a better place to buy this stuff locally other than NAPA autoparts (not very bright in my opinion around here)? Is this stuff even going to work or is it going to flake off like I have heard in the past? Keep in mind the floor has been stripped to bare metal
My dad used the etch and everything on his jeep frame. Flaked within a year. From what ive read bare metal is por's worst enemy, ive read tons of reviews where guys said it was great, and tons where guys hated it. my other buddy used it on a diesel frame and it looked great when he sold it 3 or so years later. My dad and 3 others i know havent been so lucky, imho its not worth the cost to risk a repaint...... Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Pricing...I'm surprised you're finding that much difference in pricing unless someone has marked it up higher than retail A few years ago I looked into selling that stuff as I was so impressed with it, but found the markup was so small it wasn't even worth thinking about it. $40 a quart is less than I was paying for it. If anybody has had a problem with that stuff "flaking" it's only because they haven't prepped the surface properly. It is not meant to go over smooth sheetmetal. A sandblasted finish is perfect, and yes, the metal-ready por-15 phosphoric acid should be used. Follow the instructions on product and you won't have a problem. It will etch the surface to insure you have enough tooth for the por-15 to grab. You should be able to feel a drag on the brush when appyling it...if you don't and the brush just wants to slip on the surface, the metal is too smooth, and you will have an adhesion problem. The metal needs to be kept wet for at least 15-20 minutes with the prep, and work it with a red skotchbrite pad. The metal will turn to a gray when it is been on long enough. Clean the residue off well with water, blow excess off with air, and let dry. The interior of the cab is one of the many places the por-15 is perfect for. jmho
Let me add...I've found adhesion problems with por-15 usually come in to play when you are trying to topcoat the por-15. Trying to get stuff to stick to the por-15 is a problem. If you are planning on painting the floor of your cab with paint, I'd use the epoxy primer and forget the por-15. If your just gonna por-15 it without paint, and it's gonna be covered with carpet, it'll be fine. Por-15 is not uv resistant, but as long as it's not in direct sunlight it's not a problem.
When I started my project I read the pros and cons of 'Rust' products vrs Epoxy Primers and ran some cost figures and when compared to PPG the POR was reasonable but researching Epoxy Primers lead me to SPI. Now I start with EP on bare clean metal and use it all the way through to the sealer coat. One product for preservation, build, and sealer. less than a Benjamin for a gal to boot. I still can't find a better deal for the quality.
Two weeks ago a popular automotive paint supply store wanted $50.00 a quart for POR15. Bought two quarts on AMAZON dot com for $32.86 each. Shipping to California was $5.33. Total to my doorstep was $71.05.
Por 15 likes rust so it has something to bite to. On the floor of my 49 pickup, we coated it with herculiner, bed liner. You can buy it at menards in quart cans or a gallon kit. The kit comes with a roller, brush, and I think a cheap paint tray. We scuffed the floor with green scotch brite. And haven't had a problem in 1.5 year. And if you catch it on sale, plus the menards $20 rebate, you can get it for like $50 for the gallon. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Rust mort!!!! It's an acid!!!!! I've used it a lot with minimal issues!! There is no bandaid cure to rust!!! Sandblast and remove it completely is the only way to rid the shit and never have it come back!! Here's another issue I never really see any one deal with... Rust fighter!! It's a cavity wax that sprays in the area of potential rust issues??? Basically areas you can't get paint primer etch primer....
$40/qt is a very good price for POR 15. Don't use it out of the can or pour back any unused 15. Pour what you need into a disposable container and brush it from that. Wear disposable surgical gloves (cheap at any drug store). Don't get it on you, it will take weeks to wear off. Cover the can with suran wrap, then put the lid back on and put it in the refrig.
a couple folks said they used bed liner on the floor too, I have been doing a lot of research in silence, but just can't seem to find a good answer. I could epoxy the floor and interior, but it costs a lot of money. The POR15 has mixed reviews, but as stated before if someone applies it right then there shouldn't be a problem. Bedliner... seems like it would be a bitch to remove if I had to remove it. I guess I am just going to have to pull the trigger on it and just hope it works. Thanks for the help guys!
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