Poor Mans Model A frame

I love this line.

 

If I did Poor Man's 32 Frame I would get a A** Kickin Bad ....LOL.

 

I'm in the same boat, doing up everything on the dirt-cheap or free. I like the swoop, definitely sets you apart a bit. Work it!

 

Me ad my boys took the frame apart yesterday and between all of us it took 4 1/2 hrs with a couple breaks. It wasn't to bad to take apart just time. We tossed the body over the frame rails just to see what we had to do. The frame is to long by about 8" and it needs one or more pies to bend it to a 32 side sweep because it has a 17' spread at the front. First I have to shorten it and i already narrowed it by peeling the frame rails off of it and cutting the x member behind the X. Right now it is way off but it is going to work out fine with some work.

 

Good deal. Don't forget to show your progress.

 

I took some pictures yesterday. When is Tech week coming again?

 

Hey where are the pictures ,I've got dimensions if you need them .......Hey you left the funny part out about taking the spring perches out .The three of you will get that done in no time......

 

Here is a couple of pictures that i have. That's me and my older son Jr. aka Bagged and Chopped 40. The other is a side shot of the body thrown onto the frame for gazing reasons.

 

So wotz the big deal? Make one out of wood..Then you'd have sumthing. Use apatung...hahaha , Heck it's metal for Chrissake! Get out your torches and go for it! Then arc weld it back together with a buzz box. A couple o three dayz.. A couple a 4.98 for some welding rod and yer done,shoulda used a 29 RPU body instead......Lol,Mikey

 

Here's what you need to turn it into... no problem! Mikey

 

That right there got my vote for a title!! Hellwidum I say!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yes that is my dream chassis. Send me one for free and ill use it.LOL

 

What front and rear cross members should I use? Im thinking a Model A in the front because i have a 1 3/4" wide front spring. In the back is another story. I have "40 Ford" front spring for the 8" mustang rear. The frame does have some kick up in the back.

 

Well, we used a Model A cross member in the front of mine.

 

Here is a video of me and the wife with the new frame. Well we do this when no one is looking.

 

I have been sick as a dog for the past week Kevin with a sinus flu. I looked at it and that's about it. I will post on the progress but I need a Model A front X member to get going and I need to figure out what im going to use for a rear X member/rear spring combo.

 

Here are some more crappy pictures.

 

i like the enthusiasm, and if you got the skills it would look great.
and i understand that model a frames are cheap, but where im from..you dont see one for sale everyday.

that frame is just way to long and wide, goodluck tho.

 

Heck yeah! Cut that mother up and use it. If you find out you just can't get it right, so what? You learned along the way and what did it cost you, a old beat up rame and some time. I can smell what you're cooking there and if you do it right it'll look awesome.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. I dont get it when people say its to wide or its to long. Here on the HAMB people cut,box,weld,gusset,pinch,C-it,channel,Z-it,bob-it,build one from scratch so whats the difference of me using frame rails that I have to modify? I narrowed it in no time and it is a rear and front Z-ed factory frame that is partially boxed with lightening holes. When it is done it wont look like the 32 frames that are so common in most builds but it will be different and mine for the cost of labor. Like i said before it is Free but free doesnt make it right..I have to make it right. i dont have to buy a $550 X Member so cost is reduced quite a bit.

 

I like the idea of daring to be different, and it goes right back to the way hot rods used to be built......built from what you have!

 

I'd cut the model a subrail out as much as you can and get the frame to be as wide as possible.
You're losing at least 4" of width that will be needed for the pedals and stuff.
Also once the width of the frame at the body is set,
you'll have to pinch it right behind the firewall to get it to clear.

The most important thing is cutting a long curved wedge/triangle out of the bottom of the front side frame,
hopefully matching the line with the top curve.
Make sure you mark it to the newer shorter wheelbase as the front crossmember is farther back.
Than hammer it to fit to make it look nice as it will be visible.

After that try to kick up the front and back so it will sit right,
this will change the wheelbase a small amount,
so don't have the front crossmember permanent until that is done.

Looks like fun!

TP

 

I was mocking up the frame rails under the coupe today. Like Zibo said I moved them out but I have to x the body and get that square first. I have to brace it up and weld the roof to front pillar and tack weld the doors first before I cut out the rear sub frame. There is more figuring how to do it than actually doing it. How do you guys like my front "RED NECK" jack stand? Three legged dogs walk right?

 

The frame rails are funky but workable. Im wondering if the rear crossmember is going to work if i take 2" out of it. The rear suspension is another factor but since im channeling the body to where I want it the rear stuff might work less a couple of springs or should I stick with a "40" front spring that I have? Man i cant wait to get this stuff sandblasted it looks like s**t.

 

Keep pluggin away at ,I dont look at this hobby anymore as just restoring a car ,All us guys and girls on this site are preserving much more ,,,HISTORY

 

You can make anything you put your mind to, trust me........

 

ThAtS WhAt MoMMa aLwAyS sAiD.....tHaTs mY cAr. sIgNeD FoRrEsT gUmP

 

i bought two clean A frames for 80 bucks. id have 80 bucks in grinding disk to make that one work. but i think its possible!

 

As stated over and over, Model A frames are cheap. You could MAKE money by parting that chassis out and getting yourself an actual A frame or maybe even a new fancy one like Eric at Riley Auto offers.