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Projects Poly begets a Hemi begets a Model A

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by wstory, May 21, 2020.

  1. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Ha Ha Gary. more like this. The flat head was pretty hot. Put a Hemi in it and blew it up. So, I went to school and started a family.
    0202a.jpg
     
  2. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    The yard stick was too short to span the rails and the 48 incher too long to fit within the body.
    Sometimes you gotta make your own tools :rolleyes:
    IMG_3696.JPG
     
    grumpy32, fauj, Okie Pete and 7 others like this.
  3. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Hope I'm not boring y'all with too many pics. Starting this journey with the Model A on a Deuce frame and the gas tank relocation, I was apprehensive, didn't see a path. Now I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. 2/3 of the tank will be under the body with the fuel pump and sending unit accessible from inside the car.
    Also, sneakin up on the challenge of connecting the sub-rails to the body's crossmember (across the back) that will take the rear most load of the body and,....finessing that element into the '32 detail shown in earlier pics.
    The last pic illustrates the amount of the frame horn that will be whacked off.
    IMG_3701.JPG IMG_3702.JPG IMG_3703.JPG
     
  4. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Two interrelated sub subjects are the current challenge. That is,... completing the sub-rail body mount and figgerin how to finesse the 32 detail bead into the model A sheet metal. The location of that bead is determined by the A sheet metal and the 32 tank. However, the structure supporting that needs to be connected to the sub-rail which is also influenced by the rear most body mount.
    I started (coupla days ago) on the rear crossmember, discovered a decades old stash of acorns. Still tryin to figger how to make the transition to the A sheet metal.
    IMG_3710.JPG IMG_3715.JPG IMG_3723.JPG
    In the meantime, getting the sub-frame pieces fitted. The wood model in the last pic illustrates the level of the raised floor and projects that plain toward the rear where the last body mount will be located as well as the area of connection to the modified 32 detail mounting crossmember.
    IMG_3725.JPG IMG_3729.JPG

     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2021
  5. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    IMG_3735.JPG
    Got the wood mockup resolved in steel. Rear most body mounting tab located and tacked in place. Last pic shows an issue I've been worried about, i.e. accessing the tank mounting bolts after everything is buttoned up. The driver side has two attachments, one of which will be accessed thru a plug in the floor. The passenger side as supplied, has one bolt right in the worst place. I'll re-drill the tank flange on the passenger side to mirror the driver side locations.
    IMG_3733.JPG IMG_3738.JPG
    Soon, now that the whole structure is pretty much under control, I'll do a lot of finish welding tho still scratching my head re resolving the 32 sheet metal detail across the back off the body as earlier imagined.
     
  6. Good gracious,,,,look how many oak trees were lost because of that acorn stash.

    Tommy
     
  7. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Pulled the frame in order to address the mounting bolt challenge. An issue has been getting the body's sub rails and frame matched up and the attaching bolts located. The location of several of the threaded inserts provided in the frame were not usable so had to rethink that.
    A friend tipped me to these "hex" detail inserts. Pretty cool I thunk as they will not rotate after installation. Took a little file work but worth the effort. Another friend lent me his insert tool but neither of us had the "juice" to collapse the 3/8-16 insert, so I made my own. Worked pretty slick with a dab of anti-seize.
    IMG_3756.JPG IMG_3761.JPG IMG_3764.JPG
     
  8. I like those! I've had to remake or beef up a tool once or twice before too. Nice simple solution. Keep at it.
     
    grumpy32 and loudbang like this.
  9. Guy Patterson
    Joined: Nov 27, 2020
    Posts: 372

    Guy Patterson

    Nice , need to stick that in my bag of tricks
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Well boys,...I've given up on the 32 detail to finish off the sedan's sheet metal adjacent to the tank. Too many angles/surfaces coming together at the corners for me to resolve. Man, it's really painful to give-up on what I thought was a pretty cool idea!!!!
    Sooo, I took the rear body crossmember (shown split w/acorns in previous pics) and patched in some similarly corroded pieces to extend the width and to provide an acknowledgement of the tank. IMG_3772.JPG
    IMG_3775.JPG

    The crossmember will ultimately be welded to the subframe. The next item of business is to finish the raw edge of the sheet metal to roll under at the crossmember. Did a practice piece to verify before risking the A's sheet metal to another idea I can't pull off.
    IMG_3779.JPG
    IMG_3790.JPG
    This shows a 3/16" spacer between the crossmember and the new metal that will be welded to the inside of the A's sheet-metal. The 3/16" overlap will be hammered over to provide a "rolled" edge, across the back of the body as illustrated in the practice piece shown above.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2022
  11. Nice looking work Bill. It always sucks to have to abandon a cool idea for whatever reason. I like your idea for finishing the edge. Have a happy new year.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  12. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    One of the challenges is, getting my old body contorted into the interior of the A to do welding/grinding, etc. This journey has been like crossing the creek on stepping stones you cannot see all the way to the other side. It takes courage (or naivete) :eek: to make it to the goal. So far, so good! IMG_3799.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2022
  13. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    IMG_3805.JPG
    Finally "sucked it up", quit procrastinating, and took the cut off wheel to the frame horns. Been stressing about the detail for finishing off that area. Still focused on the appearance of the 32 tank hanging out too far, imagining details that will distract from that situation. The chunk of conduit kinda mocks-up what I'm thinkin, probably introduce a subtle "S" curve into it. However, I'm deferring further thinking on that for the time being in favor tryin to make some real progress finishing the sub-frame.
    Nesting the tank into it's dedicated opening worked as planned.
    IMG_3815.JPG IMG_3814.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2022
  14. The tank looks good fitted the way you did it! Excellent job!
     
    winduptoy, osage orange and loudbang like this.
  15. jimpopper
    Joined: Feb 3, 2013
    Posts: 321

    jimpopper
    Member

    Excellent Execution! I feel your pain. A truck 1.JPG
     
  16. images.jpeg
    Looking good. Conduit idea reminds me of something like these.
     
  17. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Discovered a couple items, new to me, I thought to share as I'm particularly pleased with the value that my hard earned dollars yielded.
    The Rust-Fix is a clear spray. Very controllable, no runs or drips to chase. Immediate contact with rust turns black. Couple light coatings, per directions, gets a nice hard black surface ready for paint. I just had to be aware of over-spray on my perfectly rusted body.
    The little mallet I'm a bit embarrassed to say is from Harbor Freight :eek: Comes with four heads and the rounded one shown was perfect for most of the hammer work on the rear panel. I finished the "turn" at the base with real body hammers but this one was too good to pass up! $4.99 :p IMG_3823.JPG - IMG_3828.JPG -
    IMG_3830.JPG
     
  18. Very cool. You're experience with the hammer reminds me of the body shop course I once took. I was expecting to learn about all the specialty tools used to repair fenders and make patches but was surprised to watch my instructor bend a piece of sheet metal using a post in the shop. When I asked, "didn't he have a tool for doing that?" He replied, " I just use whatever works." If that hammer works then it's perfect.
     
  19. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,465

    classiccarjack
    Member

    I am glad to know that I am not the only one that does the "silly putty" trick to measure out the oil pan to pick up strainer clearance... LOL

    Sorry for jumping in late, since 2019 I have never worked more hours! I still remember talking to you over the phone and can't wait for COVID to end so I can actually come by and see you.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  20. ski
    Joined: Jan 21, 2008
    Posts: 111

    ski
    Member
    from San Diego

    I love the various rust "conversion" products available now for many uses especially like this for stabilizing things both short and long term. Buy the way Mr. Bill, How are you these days. Those main caps you wanted back are still here in a box w/your name. Still following your escapades with envy.
    ski
     
    loudbang likes this.
  21. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Body mounts resolved and their unique thicknesses determined. Finally got all the sub-rails finished, fit and tacked into place. Next the frame gets pulled again for the umpteenth time so's finish welding of the sub-rails can happen. After that,....frame paint. IMG_3837.JPG IMG_3846.JPG IMG_3848.JPG
    Also discovered that in addition to mice and chipmunks, a porcupine was once a resident.
    IMG_3838.JPG

     
  22. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    In attempt to imply progress, I offer what just arrived in the mail today from Brookville. A Henry was outta my price bracket. This cost about 1/4 of a beat-up original. IMG_3852.JPG
     
  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,086

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    All caught up. What a neat build
     
    winduptoy and loudbang like this.
  24. Nice looking work. Subfloors are nicely done. I've found lots of things in a project car but never porcupine quills. Lucky there wasn't a porcupine still attached to them.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  25. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Sub-rails are finally painted 'tho I don't have a pic. Not that interesting anyway, right! However, I am pleased to share that the frame is painted (mostly), the rearend is positioned and the several locating brackets tacked into place. Amazing how many times I had to measure to assure everything was square, parallel and on center,....at ride height. My Roadster's ride height gives me just 2-3/4" of travel and it's stiff and bottoms out on nasty bumps. I've set this up with 4-1/4" of travel and planning softer springs. It's all thermotical at this point but you gotta start somewhere and hopefully I've allowed enough "wiggle room" to tune the ride once it's up and running.
    IMG_3860.JPG IMG_3863.JPG IMG_3871.JPG
    All of the purchased parts bolted up without much drama except for the coil-overs. Somewhere along the way, the ladder bars, "C" notch in the frame and the upper shock mounts didn't line up to allow a "square mounting" of the coil overs. The following pic illustrates the problem which will be resolved via an extension of about 1/2" on the upper shock mount.
    IMG_3872.JPG
     
  26. Whoa! Looking really slick Bill. The way you are hammering away at your eh and Dale is working on his '55, I'm starting to feel like a slacker. I've gotta get out in the shop and not just sit on the creeper stool and look at my shit.
     
  27. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,715

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Well shit!!!!!! I was so looking forward to nesting the body and frame together and setting the whole package down at ride height and,....patting myself on the back for how cool it all came together and DOAH!!!!!.... couldn't slip the rearend past the stilts that suspend the body. Now the project is figger'n out how to lift the body, which is fairly flimsy, in order to remove the supporting stilts so's I can slide the frame and axle forward.
    IMG_3880.JPG
    There's virtually no room underneath to slip a jack or cherry picker,....much less a secure/solid point to lift on the body :mad:
     
    oliver westlund likes this.
  28. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 4,428

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Damn. As Roseane Rosannadanna used to say, "It just goes to show you, it's ALWAYS something! " Get 3 buddies to each lift a corner. :D
     
    Randall likes this.
  29. Can you just unbolt the rear axle from the frame and slide it in from the side? Or can you weld a new leg to the plate bolted to the body and zippy cut the old leg off?
     
  30. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,710

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Add another stilt leg behind the rear axle and cut off the existing stilt leg and you're in like Flynn!
     
    Tim_with_a_T and 34 5W Paul like this.

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