I am having some other parts plated for my 50 Merc and dumping a ton of money into the process. I have the polishing/buffing equipment to do most of the work myself, I just haven't taken the time to learn how to use it effectively. Here is a before and after shot of the Corvette A-arms for the Merc... yeah, yeah I know it's not DP90 but then again it's not billet either. I polished out all the casting lines and buffed off the anodizing (I haven't tried the E-Z Off removal process yet). I am learning that if you use a coarser grade of belt to knock down the imperfections in the early stages of this process, you will make more work for yourself later. Sounds kinda like common-sense but it isn't real until you actually do it. I know that Polisher and a few others on the board who make a living in this trade are probably grinnin' right now, I know I would be. I'll be out of town again this week but when I get back I intend to use my holiday vacation time to get this suspension (front and rear) assembled and mounted. Hope to have rolling chassis pics to post by the first of the year...
Looking good Charlie. Kinda cool to do it yourself is'nt it. I like bringing things back from dull and corroded back to shiney again. Gives 'ya a little satisfaction doing it yourself.Keep it up and learn as you go.
Polishing is hard work! Worth it, just for the boner you get while you watch it get shinny! How about some more pics of your 50? Thanks.
That's it another polishing addict in the making! The more you do, the worse it gets. IT's addictive you know!! You gotta use the EEZEE off on the anodised. Only way to go, So much easier. Just don't leave it more than 20 minutes. Remember the longest way is generally the shortest. Keep it up!
polisher, I have not forgot about you. I have been real busy with Xmas and all. It may be after the first of the year. Chris Nelson Kansas
I bought a book and video on metal polishing from BrightWorks some time ago and just drug it out again to see what I had overlooked. I bought a number of wheels but found that I didn't have the arbor adapters I needed to mount the air-flex buffs. The polishing/buffing that I did on the upper A-arms was with the 3600 RPM buffer; when I get the air-flex buffs mounted up I use the Blador 1800 RPM buffer to see if I can't get these pieces to glow. I have all new polyurethane bushings and new ball joints for this suspension and I'm eager to get them installed and get the frame on on 4 wheels again. Not good with patience, maybe as I get better with the polishing I will have developed a little better patience as well...
Charlie new guy here, just wanted to add my two cents for what its worth, I polished a 3 x 2 offy intake that had knucks and crannys every where. I started with a 4 inch makita with 80 grit sand disc. It took course pourus crap down fast then switch to 180 disc and dremel tool for tight spots. pain in the but, once smooth enough used black rouge and stiff buffer wheel, then brown with same buffer wheel, last used white rouge with soft wheel buffer. Belive it or not bought rouge sticks at home depot. It was a pain in but had black hands for day. keep taking gloves off to touch smoothness. Another option is to take to polisher. Most commercial polishers charge by how much work is involved take it to them mostly done and let them detail the rest for final gloss polish finish
Rude Dude, I just dropped off a set of wheels at the polisher that I bought and had de-chromed. Since he was doing the wheels I had him do the Corvette differential, "bat wing", and hubs...$320 for the differential and $60 each for the hubs! That's when I came home and started learning how to do this myself. I already had a couple of floor standing buffers and a collection of air tools, but today I bought a Metabo electric die grinder and a bunch of sanding rolls with mandrels so that I can do the fine stuff. I think polisher was right, was you get started polishing stuff on your car there's no end to it. Every part I look at now looks like it could use a polishing!
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