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Projects Plymouth 1953 hardtop

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Moparguy_bmx, Oct 15, 2017.

  1. Already did that search, just wanted to know if it was feasible, if people do that, buying a new one from the states implicates 3 more weeks of delay and I'm hitting the road this saturday, if only I could fix this overheating problem haha. In p15-d24 I read that brass is better than steel for the tube, anyways as english is not my native lang I'm not sure what brass means !! I guess it should be cooper.

    I'm flattered with your comments, building an American coupe is something I really wanted to do for a long time and that I will continue to do so, I'm very thankful for your advice (I mean everybody advices too! )
  2. Yes, it does, also my water pump is leaking so I'll have to tear it apart right now ! haha
  3. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 4,640

    from Minnesota

    Here is a distribution tube for sale on the auction site.
    s s-l640.jpg s-l1600.jpg
  4. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 4,640

    from Minnesota

  5. Finally took it for a test drive, brakes need more adjustment, very little response if any and broke the radiator which was took from the garbage (Never look a gift horse in the mouth) haha. These are my fellas cars that cruised with me yesterday, the plymo is lots of fun !! loving the sound of the flattie more and more. 20180219_190818.jpg 20180219_190833.jpg
    Peanut 1959, RMR&C and 'Mo like this.
  6. Found this surfing the web that I guess will help me a lot adjusting my brakes which still pretty weak , there are also some booklets on that webpage. Also took the radiator off and started cleaning it, have you ever seen grass inside a radiator? haha No wonder why it overheated WhatsApp Image 2018-02-23 at 11.59.43.jpeg
  7. Ahh almost forgot, I want to know how the heater valve in the manifolds work, what is its purpose as well
  8. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 8,495

    Rusty O'Toole

    If the water distribution tube is missing or rusted out all the coolant will stream up the front of the engine. The front of the engine will be cool and the back will be hot. You can easily check this with an infrared thermometer. If the front and back of the engine are the same within 5 or 10 degrees you are good.

    You can buy radiator flushing compounds at auto parts stores. Or you can use CLR calcium lime and rust remover. Drain your cooling system, put in a bottle of CLR, fill with water and drive around for 50 or 100 miles. Then drain it out while the engine is warm before any sediment has a chance to settle out. Don't forget the drain plug at the front of the block on the left side.
    dan31 likes this.
  9. Here's some text and an illustration of the valve I think you are asking about. I put Langstrom headers on mine and had to install an adaptor to run hot water to heat the carb. BTW the flattie sounds GREAT with headers.
    Heat Riser 1.jpg Heat Riser 2.jpg
  10. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 2,789

    from NW Montana

    That radiator is a mess. Small animals living in there? Might want to check the water passages in the block and also water pump as well...
    Stick a garden hose in the block and flush it....before you hook up the cleaned radiator.
  11. Well, I don't have the thermostat is that too bad for my engine?
  12. The water distro tube is there in place, I'm going to check the temperature as you say to check it is working properly, I checked it with a steel wire to make sure I could reach the end of the block and then flushed the block through the tube with hi pressure water until it came out clear.
    RMR&C likes this.
  13. Haha maybe there were some insects living there yes!! it is already cleaned, have to weld it back and try it. The water pump was rechecked, no leaks, no rust of any kind, and cleaned the engine with hi pressure water until it came out clear. I'll let you know what happens with my overheat problems as soon as I assemble it again
    RMR&C likes this.
  14. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 8,495

    Rusty O'Toole

    You need a thermostat if you want your engine to run right and get good mileage. As you live in a hot climate I suggest a 160 degree thermostat (fahrenheit) and a 4 pound pressure cap (not too much pressure for an old rad). You could add a second seal to the rad cap if it doesn't have one, and install a coolant recovery bottle like more modern cars have. A 180 thermostat will make the engine more efficient if you think the cooling system will stand it.

    I know you don't have an easy time getting parts. If a thermostat will fit in your thermostat housing, and is for an engine of similar size and power, and will allow enough water to flow through it will work as well as the correct one. I have substituted thermostats before, in cars that were hard to get parts for and had no problems. So you should be able to find a suitable thermostat at your local auto parts store.

    Chrysler products usually ran cool in all climates and did not have a problem with cooling unlike certain other flathead engines (Ford).

    If you don't use antifreeze be sure to add some water pump lubricant.

    If you put on a new muffler be sure the inlet and outlet pipes are at least as big as the original muffler. A muffler that is too small or restrictive can cause overheating.
  15. Radiator was gone, cleaned it but then realized it wasn't worth for the car, fixed it with poxi and put it apart in the stash in case of hurry. Bought a Mercedes Benz 300 radiator which was incredibly easy to install on the car, also got a cheap triple gauge to cover the radio hole and specially to know if it becomes hot! haha. Got the idea of putting a chrome trim below the triple gauge to make it more smooth. IMG-20180225-WA0011.jpeg IMG-20180228-WA0020.jpeg IMG-20180301-WA0072.jpeg IMG-20180301-WA0083.jpeg IMG-20180301-WA0089.jpeg IMG-20180222-WA0027.jpeg
    RMR&C and Hnstray like this.
  16. ring gap
    Joined: Dec 29, 2017
    Posts: 44

    ring gap

    That idea to get a different radiator was a wise choice...looking good...I'm curious about your cruising buddies cars ...which is the fastest in a short drag race???....:)
  17. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 5,519


    Nice progress.
    Thought you might like this.

    martin53 and RMR&C like this.
  18. That's a good question!, we don't know yet but I don't think that's me haha.
    Hnstray likes this.
  19. Temp issues are still on the table. When cruising the temp is still at 180F but when I stop and there's no more air flowing it raises till 220 :S , idling too. I checked the compression and realized that maybe the head gasket is worth changing, I'll took the carter off too, check valves, maybe grind the head, and as a plus I really want to fabricate some 3 to 1 exhaust manifolds as mine is already welded I guess because it got broken at some time. What should I take care the most when disassembling the old flattie, are rings a must do for ex?
  20. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 5,519


  21. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 9,727

    from Quincy, IL

    Great I don't have good answer for. However, you might try to estimate how much room you have above the valves, when they are open. Put some modeling clay on the head combustion chamber surface, directly above the valve area. Put the head back in place with a used gasket, or no gasket, snug a few head bolts here and there and turn the engine over. The valves will leave imprints in the clay (put a little oil on the valve heads so they don't stick to the clay and pull it loose). The imprints will suggest how much room you have available to change head height before impacting the valves.

  22. Well apparently based on the information I collected from the hamb and p15d24 forums my head was at stock height, anyways I measured the space between the valves and the chamber. Decided to mill the head .050. Valves are not closing properly so I must work on it today that's my free day, already got head and exhaust intake gaskets.
    Peanut 1959, 'Mo and Hnstray like this.
  23. 2bubbas
    Joined: Mar 19, 2011
    Posts: 541


    Family had several Dodge and Plymouth in late 40's- that six a tough motor- enjoying watching it come together-
  24. Decided to take the engine out, We still use the ford crane and let's see who can guess what this AMMCO machine is for, we haven't used it for 10 years at list. 28951702_10213966592310337_5533651918754152448_o.jpg 29025428_10213966518228485_5946702849210580992_o.jpg WhatsApp Image 2018-03-09 at 14.25.48 - copia.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2018-03-09 at 16.36.47 - copia.jpeg
    RMR&C and 'Mo like this.
  25. Boredpilot
    Joined: Mar 5, 2018
    Posts: 1


    Great work. Really cool watching it come together. Inspiring me to get busy on my 48 Plymouth special.
    'Mo likes this.
  26. head is ready, more updates about the engine tomorrow. The guy that milled the head couldn't go further than .025 and that was fair for me, I'm searching a carburetor duo for my new dual carb intake and 3/3 exhaust manifold, what would you recommend??

    Attached Files:

    Peanut 1959 likes this.

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