The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Moparguy_bmx, Oct 15, 2017.
Here is a distribution tube for sale on the auction site.
That looks like it has slots in the top to let the water out. May be a real bastard to get out with some rust on it. Here is the link to the auction.
Finally took it for a test drive, brakes need more adjustment, very little response if any and broke the radiator which was took from the garbage (Never look a gift horse in the mouth) haha. These are my fellas cars that cruised with me yesterday, the plymo is lots of fun !! loving the sound of the flattie more and more.
Found this surfing the web that I guess will help me a lot adjusting my brakes which still pretty weak http://www.ply33.com/Repair/brakes , there are also some booklets on that webpage. Also took the radiator off and started cleaning it, have you ever seen grass inside a radiator? haha No wonder why it overheated
Ahh almost forgot, I want to know how the heater valve in the manifolds work, what is its purpose as well
If the water distribution tube is missing or rusted out all the coolant will stream up the front of the engine. The front of the engine will be cool and the back will be hot. You can easily check this with an infrared thermometer. If the front and back of the engine are the same within 5 or 10 degrees you are good.
You can buy radiator flushing compounds at auto parts stores. Or you can use CLR calcium lime and rust remover. Drain your cooling system, put in a bottle of CLR, fill with water and drive around for 50 or 100 miles. Then drain it out while the engine is warm before any sediment has a chance to settle out. Don't forget the drain plug at the front of the block on the left side.
Here's some text and an illustration of the valve I think you are asking about. I put Langstrom headers on mine and had to install an adaptor to run hot water to heat the carb. BTW the flattie sounds GREAT with headers.
You can still get a printed shop manual on Amazon. It was a great source of information when I was working on my '53 wagon. Here's the link:
That radiator is a mess. Small animals living in there? Might want to check the water passages in the block and also water pump as well...
Stick a garden hose in the block and flush it....before you hook up the cleaned radiator.
Well, I don't have the thermostat is that too bad for my engine?
The water distro tube is there in place, I'm going to check the temperature as you say to check it is working properly, I checked it with a steel wire to make sure I could reach the end of the block and then flushed the block through the tube with hi pressure water until it came out clear.
I wish I could pay for a pdf version so I don't have to wait a month for it !!
Haha maybe there were some insects living there yes!! it is already cleaned, have to weld it back and try it. The water pump was rechecked, no leaks, no rust of any kind, and cleaned the engine with hi pressure water until it came out clear. I'll let you know what happens with my overheat problems as soon as I assemble it again
You need a thermostat if you want your engine to run right and get good mileage. As you live in a hot climate I suggest a 160 degree thermostat (fahrenheit) and a 4 pound pressure cap (not too much pressure for an old rad). You could add a second seal to the rad cap if it doesn't have one, and install a coolant recovery bottle like more modern cars have. A 180 thermostat will make the engine more efficient if you think the cooling system will stand it.
I know you don't have an easy time getting parts. If a thermostat will fit in your thermostat housing, and is for an engine of similar size and power, and will allow enough water to flow through it will work as well as the correct one. I have substituted thermostats before, in cars that were hard to get parts for and had no problems. So you should be able to find a suitable thermostat at your local auto parts store.
Chrysler products usually ran cool in all climates and did not have a problem with cooling unlike certain other flathead engines (Ford).
If you don't use antifreeze be sure to add some water pump lubricant.
If you put on a new muffler be sure the inlet and outlet pipes are at least as big as the original muffler. A muffler that is too small or restrictive can cause overheating.
Radiator was gone, cleaned it but then realized it wasn't worth for the car, fixed it with poxi and put it apart in the stash in case of hurry. Bought a Mercedes Benz 300 radiator which was incredibly easy to install on the car, also got a cheap triple gauge to cover the radio hole and specially to know if it becomes hot! haha. Got the idea of putting a chrome trim below the triple gauge to make it more smooth.
That idea to get a different radiator was a wise choice...looking good...I'm curious about your cruising buddies cars ...which is the fastest in a short drag race???....
That's a good question!, we don't know yet but I don't think that's me haha.
Temp issues are still on the table. When cruising the temp is still at 180F but when I stop and there's no more air flowing it raises till 220 :S , idling too. I checked the compression and realized that maybe the head gasket is worth changing, I'll took the carter off too, check valves, maybe grind the head, and as a plus I really want to fabricate some 3 to 1 exhaust manifolds as mine is already welded I guess because it got broken at some time. What should I take care the most when disassembling the old flattie, are rings a must do for ex?
Compression is key to power. I would definitely mill the head.
Here is a good link:https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...illing-the-cylinder-head-hop-up-parts.261711/
I want to mill the head, that thread was very useful, trying to get the complete book of hot rodding, anyways how can I measure if the head was milled before??
Great question....one I don't have good answer for. However, you might try to estimate how much room you have above the valves, when they are open. Put some modeling clay on the head combustion chamber surface, directly above the valve area. Put the head back in place with a used gasket, or no gasket, snug a few head bolts here and there and turn the engine over. The valves will leave imprints in the clay (put a little oil on the valve heads so they don't stick to the clay and pull it loose). The imprints will suggest how much room you have available to change head height before impacting the valves.
Well apparently based on the information I collected from the hamb and p15d24 forums my head was at stock height, anyways I measured the space between the valves and the chamber. Decided to mill the head .050. Valves are not closing properly so I must work on it today that's my free day, already got head and exhaust intake gaskets.
Family had several Dodge and Plymouth in late 40's- that six a tough motor- enjoying watching it come together-
Decided to take the engine out, We still use the ford crane and let's see who can guess what this AMMCO machine is for, we haven't used it for 10 years at list.
Great work. Really cool watching it come together. Inspiring me to get busy on my 48 Plymouth special.
head is ready, more updates about the engine tomorrow. The guy that milled the head couldn't go further than .025 and that was fair for me, I'm searching a carburetor duo for my new dual carb intake and 3/3 exhaust manifold, what would you recommend??
For dual carbs they used to use the original carb and buy an identical rebuilt from the local auto parts store.
Carters are nice. (True for Chevies, too.)
Looks like this one has a Plymouth ship hood ornament.
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