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Please help!!Gas tank full of rust particle!Any ways of cleaning at home methods?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lonely king, May 28, 2006.

  1. lonely king
    Joined: Mar 8, 2006
    Posts: 418

    lonely king

    My shoebox's gas tank is full of rust particals..Carberater keep on over flowing with rust i dropped the gas tank and man is not pretty inside..Any one cleaned there gas tanks at home or a shop in the los anges area clean gas tanks for a reasonable price..or any one local have a good tank for a shoebox (1950) for sale..i also need the hose that connects the gas tank to the neck filler and the sending unit ..any where i can buy this new?any help will be greatly appreciated..:confused:
  2. Bugman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 3,483


    drain it, rinse it out, dry it out, put 3 feet of chain in it, shake it like crazy, and dump it out. repeat as needed. The chain will knock all the rust loose. Then, when you reinstall it, put a clear plastic fuel filter(NOT a glass one) in an easily accessible location so you can change it when it gets clogged.
  3. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,678

    Dirty Dug

    I've used a handfull of roofing nail and about a half a gallon of kerosene. Put the nails in the tank add kerosene and shake then shake somemore, might take two people to really agitate. Then remove the nails, not hard, rince and shake again with just kerosene. It worked well for me.
  4. I just took mine to pacific radiator on colorado blvd.They are next to the glendale galleria.I had them clean and boil it, and paint it.It came out killer for 130.00.Mac's antique auto parts has all the parts you need for your 50.The hose is about 5 bucks and the sending unit is 30.00.

  5. dirthawker1313
    Joined: Apr 18, 2005
    Posts: 647


    for the sending unit and the gas neck piece try c & g early ford in escondido i belive.760-740-2400 i got that rubber piece for my 51 and sending unit there.
  6. Another variation:

    Drop it, drain it, flush it good with a water hose, put three gallons of muratic acid in it & spend a 1/2 day tilting it side to side & top & bottom.

    Drain it, flush with a water hose for an hour or so, once it dries dump a quart can of tank sealer in it.

    It won't give you any more trouble.

  7. cuznbrucie
    Joined: May 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,567


    Use the Eastwood kit for about $ will do the complete job and Presto more least for me since I did it a couple of years ago......good luck....

  8. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,555

    from UTARRGH!

    eastwood or POR15 kit. thats what i gots.
  9. I've had problems with the Eastwood stuff.
    Cleaned the tank with muriatic acid, shook it with nuts in it, did what I was supposed to do, but still had stuff peeling off the sides (the sealer) of the tank and clogging the fuel filter.
    Finally heeded an article in a mag about GasTankRenu. Now I've done six tanks that way and have had no problem with any. Jaguar I did seven-eight years ago is still fine. Car sits a LOT, no problems.
    Cost was between $175 and $200, but since all I did was onbolt and carry it over, I saved on aggravation (ever tried shaking a 26 gallon tank from a Cadillac?? Not easy). Guaranteed for life. Impervious to all but nitro (don't use on a Top Fueler...).
    Available at many radiator shops.
  10. Replace Tank And Quit Screwin Around. Check "tanks" They Have Poly Unrustables
    It Will Be At Night On A Lonely Road That It Will Haunt You.
    Be Done And Drive It
    Fuel Is Too Expensive To Be Spillin It All Over In- Out
    Don't Put That Crappy Gas In The Mower!
    Do Run A See Thru Filter Tho

    Good Luck
  11. chrisntx
    Joined: Jan 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,798

    from Texas .

    VonMoldy is the Winner!
    After cleaning it out, use POR-15 gas tank sealer. It is the best there is!
    Its about $25. If tou are rich, you can follow those other suggestions. and regret it. Even a brand new steel tank should be sealed with POR. I am sure I dont want a plastic tank!
  12. 46stude
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,716


    You need to try & figure on just how bad the rust is inside the tank. I yanked the tank out of my latest distraction (non-HAMB material Toyota on 35's) & cleaned the tank by dropping a few handfuls of pea gravel in it & shaking it around real good. Then I reinstalled the tank & put fuel in it. Too bad I knocked a few good sized rust flakes off in there & created several pinholes for the fuel to escape from.

    If your tank is scaled up w/ rust real bad inside, I'd look for a replacement before I went thru the trouble to clean it out.
  13. I'd say pull it and powerwash it with the drain plug open and just keep blasting it until the water comes out clean.

    Of course you can do that with the tank still mounted but you can't move the powerwasher around enough to blast a larger area inside the tank.

    The chain and roofing nails ideas are also awesome. I'd almost suggest some media blasting but man it would be hell to make sure every single bit of it was out of there so me personally, I'd just use my powerwasher. Or you can take it to a car wash but that sure would take a lotta quarters.

    Then change fuel filters every 10 or so miles for a few times.
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,220


    I'd replace it. Why chance a breakdown. How many carb kits are you gonna go through when it starts again. You're off on a cruise with friends and they have to pull over with ya. Worried about the plastic tank? Paint it. Mix up a bare steel lookin color, wash the new tank really well with soap and water 1st then some good solvent. Spray it with Bulldog adhesion promoter (or similar) then paint it. Problem solved forever at that point.
  15. pail44
    Joined: Nov 14, 2005
    Posts: 140


    I just went to the carwash and sprayed mine for about 10 minutes until everything seemed to come out clean. This got most of the loose rust. Added a see thru filter and had to change it after about 700 miles. Now have about 500 miles on the 2nd filter and it still looks good. I used nuts on a cushman scooter tank and they worked great also. It just too hard to handle a large tank this way. The muric acid sounds good also. Just hope you don't end up with pinholes, then you have to use a sealer for sure.
  16. PorkChop
    Joined: Jan 31, 2002
    Posts: 189

    from Austin

  17. I read somewhere (probably here) about someone putting chain or nuts&bolts in one and straping it to a tractor wheel and letting the tractor idle in low gear to agitate. I thought it was prety ingenious.
    I just got done cleaning mine with plain gas and me agitating, the clear filter is still clear after 300mi, where it was clogging after 2-300 mi before.
    I suggest in the following order
    1) Free methods above
    2) New tank if available
    3) Comercial sealers if new tank not available.
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,248


    since the car is driving, my super secret method is to put a powerful magnet near the outlet, then keep driving. this has been my proven method on some of my stock model A's-
    richards69impala likes this.
  19. Bugman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 3,483


    You mean like this? :D

    Attached Files:

  20. i used shotgun shell shot in my was heavy as heck, but a 25 pound sack of it and a little gas will work real good with no chance of knockin holes in beer and bring a freind..takes awhile!!!
  21. lonely king
    Joined: Mar 8, 2006
    Posts: 418

    lonely king

  22. LOL
  23. That was it! I was real close to asking my neighbor with a tractor to give me a hand with mine:eek: , but I think I got most of it by hand.:D
  24. flynstone
    Joined: Aug 14, 2005
    Posts: 1,712


    i took mine to the radiator shop on nordoff just west of reseda bl 120.00 super clean and then he tested it for leaks it doesent matter how old it is mine sat for 40 years and was very bad vola its like new now.......
  25. I know if it was a Chevy you could just buy a new tank for $200. I'd be surprised if no one is making a shoebox Ford tank in the same price range.

    Save the hard work that costs the same money for cars like Packards or Studebakers or anything else that you can't just go buy an off the shelf tank for.

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