First post. I'm been getting into the old hot rods for the past year (since selling my race cars). After so many years manufacturing parts for the race cars, I'm looking to go with a more "off the shelf, proven package". So after some research I think I've come up with what I'm looking for... First off, I'm getting a Brookville 29' frame/body kit. For the Engine I'm thinking: 8ba Scat rotating assemble (either 304 or 286) Isky cam (400jr or Max-1) Edelbrock Heads 74cc Edelbrock intake (either 3 carb or slingshot) MSD electric ignition Lake style headers For the trans T5: I've been doing a lot of research. For an old trans to work for me it would probably have to be giving to me. By the time I pay for the trans, tear it apart, purchase a rebuild kit.... I'm better off just purchasing the complete conversion kit with new trans, from Speedway. The differential: The Brookville kit comes with a 9" rear. However I would love put in one of the Winters Performance rear. As you can see still have some final choice I still have to make but I'm thinking its a solid plan. Thoughts? Thanks, Armando
Spending all that money on the Brookville kit, you might as well look into getting a French Flathead block from So-Cal or getting a turnkey unit from H&H.
Lakes headers? That means an open wheel car? I like it. Go easy on the Flathead overbore, they run hotter.
My first mission is to find a good machine shop, within driving distance. I'm in central FLA. So far closest I found is in College Park, GA. (Harold "Putt" Smith). That's about a 6hr drive. I don't mind the drive if he's truly the best around. As for the over-boring and running hot. This is why I'm thinking the 286 instead of the 304. If the 304 isn't gonna be that much of the difference, I go with the 286. thanks, Armando
I'm pulling a built Motor City Flathead with a GM 5 speed behind it out of a 39, 3 5/16 Bore X 4 " Stroke = 276 CI, w/Clay Smith 3/4 cam, 2- 97's & Malory dual point distributor w/PerTronix module and coil, engine Serial # S-374. Runs great, you can own the complete package for $10,800. Call if you have questions: 602 316-4430 Ted
Armando, http://www.earlyford.com/ call Early Ford V8 Sales and talk to them about their Flathead engine builder here in South Carolina. HRP
I guess another question I should ask is: Has anyone heard of Harold "Putt" Smith. Can you recommend him?
I've heard of Harold "Putt"... Think he's popular in 4 banger 'supe jobs'. $10K for a flathead? Gee, where do I line up? That'd make me mad if it wasn't so laughable. I'm doing another one right now... Gorgeous 59AB, Factory relieved. No cracks, (not even the tiny ones around the head studs!) I'm using a DELTA CAMS stick, a regrind of a Winfield SU1A...usual Total cost should come in at around 10% of the "10 grand flattie".
I've never met Putt, but I've seen his work- he is a legend here in GA, and worth having him build your engine. If you want more info- get a hold of John Sizemore in Douglasville, GA at Bright Star Hot Rods: https://www.facebook.com/Bright-Star-Hot-Rod-Restoration-272474986158125/
I know one guy that paid big bucks for a engine Putt built and after it sat for 5 years the engine had oil in the water and is now rebuilding the engine. HRP
My plan is to have the machine shop only do the machine work on the block. I'm going to do the assembling. Plus 5 years sitting, I wouldn't be surprised of it having issues.
If I was you I sure would go with Cornhusker Rod Shops 5 speed conversion rather than Speedways. You will not be sorry.......Give Gary a call as his set up is the best out there...Just don't mention speedways set to him as he might hang up on you. He has fixed so many problems with there set up he will not even talk to anyone about them any more.
So I'm thinking of the machine work, that I will be asking the machine shop to perform. This is what I've come up with so far, let me know if I missed anything (remember all the internals will be new)... magnaflux, clean line bore main caps bore out cylinders releave valve to cylinder area resize valves for 1.6 Chevy valves new valve seats machine lifter bore for adj lifters, plus drill hole for adjust tool. install cam bearings install freeze-out plugs port and polish intake/exhaust ports
I am just finishing a flattie build, and know both Putt Smith and Joe Smith....don't let anybody fool you, these guys both know Flatheads. Not related. Putt has built plenty, and now works along with his son, but to BUILD yours let me suggest Wills Machine in Chamblee GA for the machine work. These guys know their stuff, do excellent work, were very reasonable on price, and gave me some phone help on a couple issues that they could have passed me along on. Great guys, esp Mark Hodges, ask for him. You should do your own port and polish, get a kit from Jegs or Eastwood and do it....it cost a LOT to have this time consumer done....bore it the min you can, relieving is still arguable, keep your lift reasonable and take your time. Send me a message if you want refs, advise, sources, or what I used to guide me in my first build in 50 years of a flattie. Joe Smith is my parts source, great prices and loads of accurate info, plus he works with Wills as needed. Have Fun! (don't port til you see a couple videos, check on HAMB.)
Thanks for the advise. I already have all the porting tools. I used to do it to my Porsche racing engines. One thing I know about all port jobs, they get better with experience. So I was going to let the guys with the experience do the job. I'm also aware that there are a couple of spots on the block that are kinda thin and can if you're not careful, grind right through. As difficult to get these engines, I don't want to waste one cause I didn't know what I was doing. I'll give those guys you recommended a call. Another thing I'm hoping is that the machine shop can supply me with a buildable block.
Agreed you can scab up a block with too much grinding. Wills MAY have a block and can also get you to Joe Smith who had a block my last visit....he visits them often and is a flattie man for sure. Good Luck
I called Wills, I didn't ask for Mark. Which I should have, the guy I talked to didn't seem to know much. He referred a lot of the work I wanted to a go to a race shop.
Wow, that does not sound like them at all.....will PM you with two #s that are superb sources. Sorry for the rough start.
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