John, just melt the piston out with the torch, it will turn to liquid long before you harm the bock. If it's that stuck, it's not worth saving anyhow.
I have used a thin feeler gauge as a scraper. Slide around piston to cylinder gap. Soak - scrape - repeat. Work from both top & bottom. I guarantee you will need o/s pistons & a bore job. If someone tells you they broke a rusted engine loose & it runs fine - they're lying.
ok I get it!!!! I try to save everything worth saving. yeah I know its a dodge. and money dont grow on trees. nuff said. as said piston will not go up or down now. with heat ice bfh all the mixes and blends. I know its shot. I was trying to save it thats all. the car that its in was found in current condition. its probably one of the most original cars that is around. no joke. down to the sawdust extra set of wintertreads in the trunk and the tires that are on the car. the car shows wear however it is a true original. That only happens once. But yea buy new pistons yada yada yada. another motor will be cheaper than going that route. I guese i was wondering what in the hell could be making it so tight after moving it 4 inches. after I cleaned out the grease the bore is smooth? dont know. thats were im at.
If someone tells you they broke a rusted engine loose & it runs fine - they're lying.[/QUOTE] that is so not true. I had a 51 international l series truck stuck for years. with some soaking time it did free up and did perform well for 30,000 miles then I sold it. still running great to this day.
Dip that part of the block with that piston in Diesel. I did this with a boat motor that had been dipped in sea water a few times and had been sitting for years. After a couple days, and with a bit of elbow grease (Hammer etc) she popped out. Not sure. There may be a better solution????? Worked for me though.... Also, as Rat Bastad said, WD-40 didn't do much for me either...... My 2 cents. HC.
Piston is at the bottom, clean the cylinder up and shove it out the top. It's broke loose. You're not going to save the piston, it's scrap. Get rough! Long bar and a sledge.
PSI is Pressure. Pressure is Force Per Unit Area. Force is not the same as Pressure. The Force applied by a given Pressure changes according to how large an area the pressure is applied over. 1,000 PSI applied to 1 square inch of surface area yields 1,000 LBS of Force (1/2 ton). 1,000 PSI applied to 100 square inches of surface area yields 100,000 LBS of Force (50 tons). Same pressure, two orders of magnitude difference in final applied force. This is how hydraulic jacks work. Your arm exerts ~50 LBS of force on a piston with an area of ~0.5 Sq Inches, and a stroke of 1 inch. This action displaces 1/2 cubic inch of fluid, at a pressure of 100 PSI. The tiny piston is connected via plumbing to a much larger piston. This piston will have an area ~12 sq inches, so the force it exerts will be 1,200 LBS, and it will be displaced 0.042" per stroke of the smaller piston. Get it? This is the principle of hydraulic multiplication, and is the foundation of a great many of the most useful inventions in history. Modern automotive brakes, construction equipment, forming and stamping presses, beer tappers, etc. Hell, I was completely lost until you said beer tappers. dka
One new piston is more money than another motor? Yeah yeah, you're supposed to do them all, but plenty were done back in the day with just what they needed and nothing else, as long as it has compression it's going to run regardless.
What's probably happended is that the rings are frozen in the piston, and the cylinder has a worn taper in it. Driving it down has driven it into the taper. Bash it back up and out the top. Depending on how munged up the piston is, you may be able to use it...although I doubt it. If not, just dig up a replacement piston, either new or used...
This has been answered (to the effect: "the FORCE does magically mutiply") but I wanted to show an old hydraulic press gage that visually confirms this - it has two scales, the outer is hydraulic PSI, and the inner scale is tons on a 10" ram. A 10" diameter ram has an area of about 78-1/2 inches (pi x R squared). Multiply that times the pressure per square inch and you get the tons of force from the ram. Or, divide the pounds of force wanted (tons x 2000) by 78.5 and you get the psi needed for the 10" ram. Neat gage... see the photos.
Man you guys are from ice age.... Bolt a steel bar across the cyld using the head bolt threads. Stick a piece of metal between the bar and the piston. Now tighten the other side the last 1/4" of a inch. It will move it or break it. UGOTPK
You have a lot to learn sonny. Just because you don't understand something, that don't make it a lie.
29Nash, Amen! you are right,,I have seen several old engines run very well after being stuck badly,,,,maybe just luck,,I don't know. I do know it is possible to run an engine a long time after being freed up. Tommy
tappers........hummmm. Multiple. Never thought of it 'til now. Two is better than one~! I'm on the way to the beer store!
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