Used to fool around with striping when I was 17 and stayed at it for a couple years. Designs weren't too bad, but the big trick was pulling a good line. After watching some good pinstripers at a few car shows the last few years the light dawned that one of the biggest secrets is paint viscosity. Thinning the paint in other words. Something you have to learn mainly for ease of pulling a line, but also because the paint thickens up every time you open it. I'm finding it works pretty well to get the paint out onto the pallette - a thick, slick papered magazine works well, many womens mags are printed on quality paper and let's face it, not many of us are going to sacrifice our Hot Rod mags. Better ask first though, sometimes the gals are saving an old mag as a reference etc. Once the paint is on the pallette I like to lay the lid on the can right side up and thin the paint with turpentine from an old and clean tuna can about 1/4 full. I did run some experiments on overly thinned and not thinned at all paint on a primered trunk lid. Thin will give you a line that will run where the brush first touched down. Un-thinned, the line starts overly thin and doesn't flow out very well. Overly thinned will give you a brush that droops too much when you lift it off the pallette. Not enough thinner is hard to tell from "just right" because the brush doesn't droop much and neither does the perfectly thinned paint. If you're not sure it seems to help to lay down a line on the clean area of the magazine page and take note of what it looks like at the start. One thing I tried this time around was using a Stabilo pencil. I have one in white and one in blue. Blue seems to make a more visible pattern if the cars base color will allow that. This small re-interest in striping due to my pal (CK) getting his good looking 46 Ford striped a few days back. We saw the stripers, signs etc. on our way back from Viva Las Vegas the previous Saturday and it looked like pretty good work. So we drove out in both his car and my roadster - he wanted company since he'd just put his engine back together and was a bit worried since this would be the first out of town trip with it. We had a nice breakfast and I went out first to take a look at how things were going. I found a small, not very artistic nor well done pattern on the nose of the car and figured the striper was letting it dry a bit before applying an additional color. Not so the kid said, he was all done. What I think happened here was we saw some nice striping done by a very experienced guy and he let the "apprentice" do it. So aside from that little misadventure I got to thinking about the big blank trunk lid on my 32. A little striping there would be nice and I figured at the least I could do better than the kid had done. Thinking too was I better practice a while so I don't really screw things up. To that end I figured my slightly faded 89 Ranger 4x4 would be a good canvas to practice on. Thinking back to CKs 29 roadster that had some really nice striping on it, I realized the striper had laid out a 1" grid pattern and ran his lines over that. Struck me as a good idea. I've always been bugged by assymmetrical lines within a symmetrical pattern and the lines should go a long way toward helping. I did use the blue Stabilo pencil to lay out a triangular pattern with a couple more and steeper angled triangular lines inside the base triangle. I added a couple of horizontal lines to help as well. And in retrospect I should have laid some more horizontal lines down. Regardless, it didn't come out too bad. A few good lines, most ok, some not so swift and a touch of poor symmetry in a few places, but all in all it'll work. The pattern . . . a ten footer for sure, but I'll do some more in the next few days and if there's some improvement I'll stripe the 32s trunk lid. One thing I've seen done was laying out the pattern, curves and all with the Stabilo and then simply laying lines over the Stabilo lines. It works I guess, but doesn't seem right to me. If any of you are thinking of trying this, give it a shot. You-Tube has a bunch of interesting videos and you'll pick up a lot of info. Pay particular attention to the brush angles used on straight lines and curves. Search for "pin striping." The paint I used was One-Shot. Wish I would have used it as a kid, we all used Sherwin-Williams 4 hour enamel then and it worked ok, but the One-Shot seems to work better. Thinner was Turpentine. Brush was a Mack 00 - I also have an 0 - both with blue ferrules. Great brushes in my opinion. I have a few green ferrule Macks and have never been too happy with them. They're the ones you find in many auto-paint supply stores. Surprisingly you can find striping brushes in some stationary stores. I used to have some Grumbachers I liked until I loaned them to a friend and he 'trimmed' them. Same guy I loaned a nice Holley 4 bbl to just so he could get home. I got it back "all tuned up" and running like shit. Never loaned him anything after that. A few questions: Drying time on One-Shot? We gave it an hour before driving down the highway with CKs freshly pinstriped car. Semed to work ok and it's one of those gotta do it deals. Anyway, I laid some lines down with Process Blue (a One- Shot color) and let it dry 24 hours before laying down some white One-Shot. Worked ok and what I'm wondering here is how long should you wait before running one color over the top of another one? Tomorrow the third color goes on. Debating right now between red or purple. Red, white and blue is always a good combo. The Ranger is metallic silver and has a purple, blue & black graphic down the side. Probably go for the purple here, but on the 32 it'll get red, white and blue. Only colors on the car are black except for the red calipers and tan interior. I cleaned the Rangers hood front with Simple Green. No worries about wax here, the little truck sat out in the Las Vegas sun the last four years and only got washed. (I bought it new in 89, son-in-law had it for four years and I got it back in November 2007. Kinda cool to once again have a 4x4 with all the places we have to explore out here.) I'm wondering if Simple Green is harsh enough to clean the wax off the 32's trunk lid? I was surprised to hear the stripers who did CKs car cleaned the wax and many bugs from the short trip off with lacquer thinner. We have a very good pro painter in our Saturday morning donut gang and he tells me that lacquer thinner is commonly used for that purpose. When I mentioned I had acrylic lacquer on the 32 he strongly advised against using lacquer thinner on it. I did hit the local paint shop for some wax remover, but for $28. a gallon, including tax, I'm not gonna buy a gallon, use a teacup and let it collect dust. I'da bought a quart for under $10., but they tell me wax remover doesn't come in quarts. Can anyone recommend an acceptable substitute? I'm guessing that several scrubbings with Simple Green or dish washing detergent may do the trick if there isn't a good substitute for wax remover.