Technical Pinion damage - usable or not

I dismantled the rear axle ( 1948 banjo) and noticed surface damage on the pinion teeth, plus one place with corrosion. it does not seem to be deeply corroded, but the surface is no longer as smooth as it should be. In your opinion, is this part suitable for use or should I buy a new one? I must mention that before I took the rear axle apart, everything was running smoothly without any jams.Ring gear looks very good.
It looks like it was working with too little oil.What do you think, gentlemen

 

I would use it. That is, in something that required nothing stronger than a Banjo Rear

 

Under the hood there will be a V8 24stud 221cui, supercharged with Frenzel . I drive calmly and I don't plan on burning tires or racing. Gear ratio 3.78

 

I'd use it too.

 

Use a Scotchbrite pad in a 90 degree sander,,,,hit the teeth in a polishing fashion .
Those will clean right up .
Actually,,,,they look really good,,,,it will work almost like new .

Of course,,,,,a thorough cleaning of all the parts goes with that too .

Tommy

 

Yea. I would clean it all up as stated and run it.

 

Use it. Bla Bla Bla…

 

Thanks guys. I will buy new bearings and will use this ring and pinion set.Bearings looking like that:

Unfortunately, there was some moisture inside and parts were damaged by corrosion. The bearings are generally in excellent condition and if it weren't for these minor damages, you could easily leave them as they are and drive them.

 

Bearings are different….rust pits (some call patina) on ring and pinions just carry more oil!.

 

I don't feel good with those rust spots on the pinion but maybe I'm to precize...?

 

I´d put in new bearings, polish the pinion teeth a bit and run it. You should see the gears I´ve been running in my 55 Chevy 3 speed OD trans for over 65k miles now without any troubles.

 

What does the bearing surface look like at the back end, under the roller bearing? I find this to be a weak link in the banjo's. That bear goes out, then it will spin in the case and wreck that too

 

It look very good. One small rust spot but outside of the bearing track.

 

Clean the bearings really good and post pics of the cage & roller as well as outer race. You might be ok, that's assuming they are original Timkens. Can't tell if that one roller is spalled or not...
If water did get in and any of the races or rollers are rusty, replace them with usa made Timken, not the China made Timkens.

 

Putting it back will sharpen your hearing, you'll wonder about every little noise you hear.

 

I have a transmission with straight cut gears, a couple look like your pinion. I burnished with a wire brush and plan on running with the slight damage. I wonder if I could shot peen the tooth surfaces if that would help?
I would put new bearings in and run it if it was mine.
Dan

 

Stuff it full of over ripe bananas! That's the real old school way...

 

I'd polish the pinion teeth, put new quality bearings/races in it and when you assembly it, setup the pinion preload and then the backlash as it should be - and you should be fine.

Also, use die-chem and fine lapping compound to lap the rear hubs onto the tapered axle shafts. This is especially important if you're putting new/different drums/hubs on the axle. The key is not designed to take the load --> the taper takes the load and that is why it is important to have a precise fitment of the hubs to the axles.

Lastly, add some aftermarket accessory broken-axle-save-your-ass brackets (they mount to the top two hydraulic cyl bolts and are a u-shape that goes over the drum). They are used to ensure the drum stays on if you break an axle. They are not that expensive and very important insurance!

 

Dave, you must be older than dirt!

 

I believe I see some spalling on the gear teeth where chunks of metal have been removed. If I tore a rear end apart and found gears in this condition; it would be getting new gears. I like to do a job once and not worry about "iffy" parts.

Could you run these gears a long time? I'd give it a definite maybe, but I wouldn't try.

 

I don't see the thinking behind all that is involved in going through a axle and putting a gear set back that is already coming apart. But that is just me.

 

You're good. And like the guys said, clean it up a bit. Die grinder, sanding disc, file, whatever you have. New bearings for sure

 

Yes I have mixed feelings.

Anybody know the name off company which makes those new gear sets?
I heard they are located in Italy... not sure if it's true. If so I could maybe buy new gears directly from them because I'm currently living in Europe.
Next thing - where I can get USA made bearings. I've seen some on ebay but most of them have rust... I already have rusty bearings so I don't need NOS rusty ones.

 

I agree if you can find and afford the gears, in may case I have 300 in bearings etc, but if I replace the gears I’m looking at 1600. Not sure how easy it is to find banjo gears or what they cost.
Dan

 

Check with Southside Obsolete. Fred Wilmer is the fellow’s name. He has buildings full of NOS Ford parts. He may have a new set.

 

I agree , it is easy to spend a couple grand putting any kind of axle together. But what else do you do ? patch it. Just my thoughts on it.

 

A couple questions:
You guys talking about polishing or smoothing out the gear teeth, how do you do it? Those teeth are harder than stone!

And the guys saying to just buy a new set, have you seen the prices? Let alone the uncertainty about the quality?

 

Well... sometime you have no choice. To do it right will cost some money.

 

Speedway sells them for about 360$ as far as I heard they are good quality... probably not as good as original one but anyway.

 

I can buy four rearends for that and surely there’s a good ring and pinion in one of them.