Im throwing ideas around my head as to build a framing table. I need some pics, ideas, dimensions. IM also thinking of building a bench top style welding jig for welding tubing at precise angles. Ive seen them for 1 1/2 in square tubing, but im thinking bigger is better. Like up to four inches. Also the ones ive seen only do 90 degree angles. Any input on this?
60s Style has a pretty slick frame table. I guess if I was after something and had the cash i'd be after a platrten. but your talking 0 to no mobility and tons of cash. You could make up a table with a plate top and holes in it like a peg board, then you could work out any angle you want.
My table is a 1/2" steel plate, 36" X 114". It is bolted to the 3" X 3" X 1/4" frame with countersunk-head bolts so I can shim it for flatness. The four legs of the frame are adjustable so it can be levelled. I use an 8 foot aluminum straight-edge to check for flat and a digital level for that measurement. I've been using it for more than 25 years and it has performed flawlessly. Sorry it doesn't show up much in this photo.
Here's a few shots I took yesterday of the progress on my frame, it shows the frame jig somewhat. Very nice thing about this jig is it can be turned 360* so I don't have to lay on my back and have molten metal run down my neck!!
this is mine, only used once (low miles!) made of 1/8" wall 2x6 rectangular tubing, with rotating supports at each end. To use it I need to tack weld rectangular tubes across to support the frame, and clamp the frame parts to these tubes. It has "rotisserie action", which is nice for us guys who aren't so hot at welding overhead. But this means that I have to level it carefully frequently, and also keep after diagonal measurements. Not a production jig, but it works for occasional use. And it comes apart and leans up against the wall in the shop, out of the way.
this one is NOT mine , i stole the picture online...maybe from here? i'm using it as a pattern for the one i'm making
here's mine, made in a few hours from scrounged steel, only cost aside from gas and wire was for the four Harbor Freight casters. it measures four feet wide, ten feet long and two and a half feet tall. if I had more steel I would have made it a foot taller... and it does take up a lot of room when it's not being used, which is like, always
Thanks for all of the pictures guys. You guys all did bang up jobs on yours. When i start building mine ill be asking for help im sure.
Here's what I'm using...a 60's vintage Evinrude boat trailer...8" I-beam construction...DISC BRAKES!...I'm leaving the axle in place so I can rent it out if needed....paid $50.00 for it at a marine dealer auction (gave the boat away!)....
I guess it depends on frequency of use and need. I plan to use a couple of 5 or 6 inch I beams, bout 6' long, some detachable legs with scaffold casters (they have brakes), and give them the ability to be plumbed and leveled. Without the legs 2 beams at the front and back of the average tubbed car should allow me to build at ride ht (just the way I like it), and best of all goes against the wall when not used. My floor is only 3yrs old and still nearly spot on for level. Makes it easy I guess. Home or frequent shop use?
I was thinking of making one similar to theHighlander except that I was thinking about having 2 separate sets of legs. A taller set with flat bases with jacking screws to allow levelling and this set would set the top of the jig rails about 30" off the floor, and a second set with castor wheels and this set would set the top of the jig rails about 15" off the floor. When the body is mounted on the chassis this would allow you to work below the car on a creeper, but not need an extension ladder to climb up into the car to work on things such as steering and radiator mounting etc. I have my eye on a couple of old no longer used phone line poles made of about 6" x 3" I beam. Michael
Couple pics of mine with my 34 pickup frame in it. Note it's a little shy on uprights for the 34, I was only planning on doing one of these frames, so the jigging for these particular measurements was a quickie. The setup for our hibiy frames has a crossbar and an upright every 12". Remember when you build a frame jig, bigger is better and huge is best. a 5 or 6" rail will pull a lot of other stuff crooked with it as it heats and cools.
Nice looking jigs in here! here are a few pictures of our jig......it's big, it's not easily moved.... But it is functional, The stations are removable, you can work in it....you can also measure off it... here are a few pics....with stations in/out, working in it and the rear end jig that is adjustable..... it is set up at 3 degrees of rake, building at ride hieght.
This is an old post but I was wondering if anyone has pics of their frame jigs to add to it? I am starting to scrounge some junk for mine.
Check around an auto body frame equipment supply or body shop for a used Cellete or Blackhawk bench. I know that measuring systems were available for both brands and even later laser types can be adapted. I know a used Blackhawk would sell for $500.00 to $1000.00. These machines were designed for anchoring, pulling and restoreing body dimensions after a collision and are easily adapted for a fabrication fixture. Have a Blackhawk here at the shop and it works well for us. Larry Larry
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