I am really puzzled about a good combination of parts to make the steering work out on my Model A using split wishbones. It seems whatever combination of parts I can come up with, or have tried to think through, there is a potential for interference with the draglink to wishbone using a stock Model A steering box, or other box that's mounted to the frame rail and has the drag link more or less parallel with the frame rail, or potential interference with the drag link and/or tie rod to wishbone on a cross steering system. Below is a list of parts I currently have, but I'm not opposed to buying something else (Vega box or Unisteer unit, for instance) if I have a good feeling it will work out. Please post photos if you have come up with a combination of parts! I'm sure it has been done countless times. I have searched and searched, looked at lots of photos and have yet arrived at a good combination or solution. I currently have; Model A 2-tooth steering box. '35/'36 axle (stock) and also one with 4" drop. Model A wishbone (currently un-split, but I could if I need to) Pair of '37 (I believe) split wishbones. I'd still need to weld in bungs for the back end. '32 Ford spindles. '40 Ford spindles. Thanks, in advance, for guidance you can offer. Photos would be great! Lynn
I would prefer an F-1 or F-100 steering box for a traditional car. If you want split wishbones with this type of setup, just keep the rear end of the wishbone a bit under the frame rail. Should be no interference then. I really don't like the unisteer things.
alchemy....I appreciate you posting. Here are a couple photos I added to a post that was probably a result of the same issue I face. The first is looking down at the back of the '37(?) split wishbone with me holding a rod end in the approximate position where it would land on a bracket mounted to the inside of the frame rail. The second is the interference of the wishbone with the Model A pitman. Perhaps the F-1 sector shaft is a lot longer than the Model A 2-tooth shaft? I thought I was maybe on to something and thought I could remove the ball on the inside of the pitman arm and drill and taper a hole to use a tie rod end instead of the ball/socket end, but there's just not enough room to allow the pitman any movement for a left turn. I also thought heating and bending the pitman arm would be a possibility, but the bends would have to be substantial. Lynn
There are a lot of combinations of parts you can use to do what you need to to fit a V8 in a model A. I assume your talking about splitting the wishbone so you can run a V8 even though you don't state that in your posting? My set up in my A chassis with an 8BA is a dropped axle, 47 split bones turned over to clear the tie rod, bent in towards the center of the car some near the axle end, then pie cut to give me 7 degrees caster, F1 front brake setups, and F1 steering box. All of these items are installed and I have driven the car and there is no interference between components that I have seen. Many guys don't use the A bones if they are installing a V8 in an A as there is some concern as to the strength. Or the A steering box for that matter. Also a lot use the newer axles as well. If you don't have it you need to get the book How to Build a Hot Rod by Bishop and Tardel. It covers a lot of this stuff in pretty good detail. I can take pics of anything you want to see.
I am not in a quandary, but am looking to build a Model A coupe in the near future. Thought the information from this thread could be beneficial.
Ah, got it. I have to say just getting started on the A is making me feel dumb. I'm pretty much a loner at hot rods in the rural area I live in. Wished I had paid more attention to details of cars at shows. Lynn
If you really need to use that A box, can the pitman just be turned around on the sector so the ball points out? Then maybe a little heating and bending to make it clear the wishbone. I'm not sure if the square A sector has any taper or not. Ride your bike up here and we can load an F-1 box/column into the saddle bag.
It wouldn't be as "pretty" but mounting the bracket to the inside of the frame rail so the tie rod end can be put in from the inside with the nut exposed under the frame rail would move it in several inches with no real modifications and no added expense and it would probably actually handle a tad better in the process. Split bones are split to clear what you need to clear, they don't have to be spread out to the outside of the frame rail because there is some "this is how it is done or else" rule. There is a popular kit for 35 / 40 Fords to split the bones that doesn't even change the angle of the bones. It just gets the pivot point out of the way. Since I am too tired to copy and paste the photo this is a link to that bracket as an example. Won't fit on the A though. https://www.ebay.com/p/Vintage-Part...shbone-Kit/1230148567?iid=253726088791&chn=ps
Here's mine: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/automotive-a-d-d-the-28-tudor.753531/#post-9655681
^^^ This ^^^ I've even seen a car on here some years ago, and the builder could not steer it enough to get out of his tight driveway onto the narrow street he is on! His tires hit the bones. He had no idea that he could have, or "how", to move the bones inwards.
Thanks for all the great input and ideas. 1oldtimer....I read through the link you posted. Interesting and helpful stuff, for sure! alchemy....F-1 box and column strapped down on the motorcycle is quite a mental picture. I'm a wuss, so it might be a bit cold for me to ride even further North this time of year. Marty....That's a great looking roadster! I saved the photo for ideas and dreaming about a possible future build. The Model A pitman arm can indeed be flipped "inside out", but that didn't give me quite as much room as I would like to have, so I'm going to go Vega box. Several reasons.....I can mount the radius rods more easily and I'll go inboard on the rails with the bracket with the tie rod end stud pointing out to keep more inward angle on the radius rods. I plan on buying a Borgeson Vega box. I haven't read any bad reports about them, like the poorly reviewed Speedway box. The Borgeson is priced between the Speedway and Flaming River box so that does make it more attractive too. Also....It appears that by not using either the A or '32 spindles I have, instead using my set of '40 spindles with the '37-ish radius rods, that the tie rod might clear the underside of the radius rod. If the steering arms have to be bent it will be very slight. To get enough draglink/radius rod clearance for the cross-steer Vega setup, I was wondering if a very slight "bow" in the outer end of the draglink would cause concern? I'd likely be using 7/8" X .120" DOM tubing for the tie rod and drag link. A slight bow, or maybe just bending down the steering arms anyway would likely be needed to assure clearance for the draglink through suspension travel. Thanks. Lynn
This is a factory 48 Merc steering link. If the factory can do it, I bet you'll be just fine. The Wizzard
Thanks. Life is good. My draglink won't need anywhere near that much bend to make the extra bit of clearance I might need. I have about 1/2" to 3/4" between the tie rod and the radius rods now, but even if the draglink is parallel with the tie rod at ride height it will probably get dangerously close with front suspension extension. Lynn
Lynn, going with a Vega box will give you another issue and will have to use a panhard bar or a dead mans perch. You also can reverse the Vega box and use it like a f100 box... I like to use the 1932 to 1934 steering box and will give you clearance for the steering arm /split bones. This also will give you a steering column with no joint to look at and making a steering column mount on the bottom just the top. If retaining the original gas tank you can use a late 1931 column drop and can extend it by buying drop segments. You also can extend the late 31 drop. As for the bones the 37 is the way to go for a few reasons. The model a bones when split are a bit short and have a wrong angle on the axle mount. You can solve this by pie cutting the bones in the front so it rises faster and don’t have to use 6 inch mounting brackets.
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