Can I use a rust convertor like Por 15 over the treated metal after it dries? I have some back in a area I cannot get to to sand or try to scuff it up to remove anything left from the treatment.
There is real drying if you use the phosphoric acid correctly. Keep it wet as it works, then dry completely with paper towels. At that point, it is ready to be coated. Don't use POR; crap. If you want a moisture cured product, use Master Series silver, then whatever top coat you wish.
After trying Ospho here and there I really prefer non caustic Evapo-Rust followed by the KBS Coatings products. Their "RustBlast" is a less concentrated product - KBS has the same instruction as many have said in this thread - Do NOT let it dry - wipe it off. It still leaves a protective zinc phosphate coating. Here's my results on my wagon roof: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=834529
I just read this whole topic. Maybe I missed it or it was not mentioned because it was thought to be common sense. But will the phosphorus acid effect wiring, hoses, bushings, etc? I want to use it on my 1950 Pontiac in the wheel wells, a-arms, frame section, etc. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That being said, anywhere you can wipe on and wipe off is not a problem. Meaning, don't leave it on, but in my experience with it over many years, it will not damage anything if you wipe it off in an orderly fashion. I keep some in a plastic contain, it's sold in plastic containers. I use it everywhere, just wipe clean.
Picked this up at tractor supply. It was $30.00 but works better than anything I have used or seen........ Hope you guys can comment on these: The directions say NOT TO WASH IT OFF! Says to paint over it with whatever paint you choose. What do you think about that? I have been using it in panel seams just soaking them down where sandblasters can't reach. The gray stripes you see on the surface are where it dripped off of the tip of the spray bottle. I have used KBS and washed it off. This stuff says it is formulated so you don't have to. Just curious how it will react to paint down the road.
You have to use common sense using any acid based cleaner or rust remover or converter FIRST--any acid will react more with copper(wire) or aluminum(wheels-trim-wire ends) than iron or steel parts and higher temps will speed the reaction and the stronger the acid the more reaction so muriatic acid or other stronger acids will ruin your part or hurt you much faster than phosphoric acid(ospho or whatever it's called) or vinegar --ospho turns rust to an inert form that can be painted over but if the rust is too thick it may only coat the top layer or be too rough to paint smoothly--YOU have to use your judgment --and when the reaction ends it's over If you soak your part it will keep reacting when you take it from the solution it is still reacting until it is spent, washed off or neutralized--and if you wash the part where BARE metal is exposed to the air--containing 0xygen--new oxidation in the form of rust if it is iron or steel will happen until the piece is coated with something to seal out the air
http://www.bapspaint.com/docs/psheets/PPG/Automotive/Deltron/P-226.pdf I see a lot of posts saying not to wash it off... So I wonder why PPG say's to RINSE IT OFF on their MSDS sheets? Those dummies don't know nothin I guess....
I've been in the auto restoration for about 35 years and use P/A often. I just did a 40 ford sedan roof that had heavy surface rust. What I do is lay out an old towel or two and saturate them with the P/A. then cover that with some light visqueen and let it set over night, the visqueen will keep it from drying out. the next day I remove the towels and wipe it clean. lastly I will wipe with a damp rag. when I have all the rust off I will go over all of it with a D/A and 80 grit. now wipe it until clean with metal prep and i'm ready for primer epoxy or what ever. I know that they say to let it dry, but I can't make myself spray paint over the residue that is left. I want good shinny clean metal. Jay D.
Acid is great, same time it is cruel. Going to post 2 photos. I used acid to clean my body panels on my avatar. Because I am a cheap arse and no access to decent sandblasting. First photo is a fender from my avatar, it cleaned up nice along with the other fender, hood etc... I parked in my office. Because that one piece did not get the acid neutralized properly. Even though parked inside, it flash rusted faster then normal. I am a noob with acid, I use ospho, I have phosphoric acid, I have muriatic acid. Probably doing it wrong. But it does work. The next photo is simply my truck with ospho acid on it. I already brought the front to bare metal and primer. The bed & running boards is covered with ospho. Until I get time to remove them anMy pressure washer washes the ospho off to bare metals clean it. Just saying different acids have different uses. These bedsides will get the roughest muriatic acid. But not til they are removed and moved 500' to the back yard away from the vehicle.
To save me key strokes I refer you to post #84 I did back when complete with pics of results. You didn't list washing off the wet conversion coat so guessing you didn't do that. The black/white residue/buildup is what you get when you don't wash off the acid wash. Sounds counter intuitive but it is a necessary step.
i use OSPHO on rusty stuff, mostly parts/places like inner fenders, frame stuff, inside doors & underneath fenders, spray on with hand pump sprayer (old windex sprayer), I brush it around with an old toothbrush, let dry, no wiping/rinsing, then paint with oil based paint. holds up very well. white part is dried OSPHO.
OSPHO behind hidden brackets lap seams cant be reached by blasting then Rust-Oleum primer holds up for years in my Seattle wet climate
Thank you for the response ... and you're right - we did not rinse it off. Your probable assumption that we jumped right in without the proper research is also right, but it's a good learning experience and something we should be able to address with a bit more work. Thanks again for the quick reply and pointer back to #84!
Great Info, I'm currently using eastwood fast etch and so far it has worked really well. i picked up this 54 that was sandblasted then sat for awhile and eventually rusted. I picked up a SCT contour with a wire wheel and it worked great! Next i will apply epoxy primer i purchased the eastwood and will see how well it sticks to the metal. i plan to knock the phosphate and neutralize the metal i do not want to use water so i am trying to figure out what's the best neutralizing agent before I DA and clean with acetone.