Dont even store a closed container of Muratic in your garage!!!!!!It WILL still cause damage to every thing stored there..Some BAD shit... Damn good weed killer.....
Can you weld through the metal treated with this stuff? Like If I treated my frame with it before boxing it?
I would clean the part your welding to get a good weld, depending on how rusty the metal was the iron phosphate can get pretty thick.
Serious as backyard bucket chemistry and the not always immeadeately obvious mishaps. What concentration did you buy???
Your right sometimes the most obvious detail is the most missed. Safety in my garage is Number One, so I assume it should be the same for everyone, of course sometimes that is not the case. Depends on which brand and where you buy it but here are the 2 major ones: PH-OSPHO-RIC PLUS+ (85% concentration) MSDS is sold at home depot Ospho (75% concentration) MSDS is sold at Ace Harware, Tru Value DATA SHEET for Ospho (pretty much the same for PH-OSPHO-RIC PLUS+): Chemical OSPHO is a balanced formula of Phosphoric acid, Sodium Dichromate, Surfactants, and Extenders. Physical: Boiling Point 240 degrees F Specific Gravity. 1.22 + .04 Average % Nonvolatile = 37.6% + / -0.5% Soluble in Water Color. Green Liquid Odor. Typical Acidic Spills: Neutralize with basic material, flush with plenty of water. Respiratory: Use adequate ventilation in confined areas, skin and eye protection should be used. Fire Data: No hazard Decomposition Products: Oxides of phosphorus Health Hazards: Irritant to eyes and mucous membranes. In case of external contact, flush with cool water. If swallowed, give 1 or 2 glasses of water or milk and call physician. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN Reactivity: Can react with various metals to generate hydrogen gas, which could form an explosive concentration in confined spaces. Use adequate ventilation.
Thats better! It just always bugs me when one smart guy shares SOME of his knowledge......then some other careful guys say "Hell...I'll give it a crack - what about Hydrogen embrittlement/neutralization/compatibility with undercoats etc"....then another dude is "cool.....can I slather it on my frame and start welding????" "A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing"....so PLEASE start with the safety aspects before you give matches to children!
There's absolutely no reason to use phosphoric acid or other hazardous materials to remove rust on your car, there are plenty of much safer (and even 'green' biodegradable) products that work as well or better without damaging other surfaces. Hell, you don't even need gloves to handle most of them. Plus, do you really want to wash phosphoric acid off on your street?
I read this post before and went on a hunt to buy this OSPHO. I went to Home Depot and Lowes and got the usual blank stares when I asked for this stuff. I went to the paint department where I though the chemicals and still no OSPHO. What gives????
I gotta ask, if this is the main ingrediant of Miracle-gro, what then would make it hazzardous to dispose of? Just throw it on the lawn. And 85% is right about pickeling, the step most often overlooked. I bought a gallon of DuPont Metalprep 30 years ago. never had to buy another. It lasts a long time.
I'm not going to argue about this one, but unless you are splashing the acid onto your car and letting it fly all over the place, splashing it on you, letting it puddle on the ground and everything around you then I would be concerned. Brush it on and contain it to certain areas of your metal. The stuff works, period. I screenprint and I use all green products (Franmar) to clean my equipment, screens, ink cleanup, so I know about green, disposal, its effects etc. Phosphoric acid is bad stuff, I am not contesting it, but careful use of it reaps great benefits. Did you know Coke has contains phosphoric acid and yes so does Miracle Grow. At Home Depot the product is named: Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep & Etch comes in a white container, its in the paint section near the paint remove, laquer thinner etc.
What are some of these products? Where do find them? I know citric acid will degrease, but what takes off rust?
I use it all the time . IT WORKS. Go to Hotrodders.com and check out KEN FERGUSONS rust removal article on a 40 Willys. Just sand off the residue before priming. HOK kp2cf epoxy primer peeled off because i didnt sand off the PA residue. SAND IT OFF AND WIPE DOWN WITH LACQUER THINNER> and its good to go. Later Mike
OSPHO can be bought at your local ACE hardware or most other hardware stores in the paint departments.
Interesting topic. Yes vinegar works good but real slow and flash rusts in a short time. Time to check out the other products. Thanks for the info.
Yep, works great when used as described. One serious caution is to make sure you're using plenty of ventilation. I burned my nasal passages RAW one time. Still can't smell things like I used to but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Now I can walk past the sewage counter (Fragrances) in a department store without gagging or holding my breath. You can also use it to clean and sharpen old files. Works great. If you rinse them in HOT water it will neutralize the acid AND evaporate before the files flash rust.
I've got some caustic soda sittin in the garage that I am just to sketched out to try( I've heard it's some powerful stuff). Maybe I'll try this.
Be carefull with the caustic soda, it's real caustic. Oh and you probably know this but be carefull not to mix the caustic soda and acid of any kind, it goes off like baking soda and vinegar on crack. (no really, no 'boom' or anything entertaining either ).
I've always used it on clean metal, like after using aircraft stripper... if I've used it on rusty and pitted metal, I wire brush off as mush as I can, then use Ospho, when it dries, I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to get the wet stuff in the nooks and crannies, then laquer thinner until the crusty stuff is smooth, sometimes you need sandpaper if it's really crusty, then lacquer thinner again then a metal prep, then (cheap) primer. Ospho has a smell all it's own...
http://www.evaporust.com/ http://www.safestrustremover.com/ http://www.newequipment.com/303/Pro...__Rust_Remover_Gel_from_Orison_Marketing.aspx http://www.worlds-best-products.com/MetalCleaning.html http://www.cortecvci.com/Products/single.php?code=10243 All of these will completely strip even the heaviest rust off sheetmetal. Pick up the Jan '09 issue of HOT ROD to see them tested. Also, Apple Cider vinegar works, but stinks like hell. Molasses kinda works, but slowly and only on light rust.
Thanks, I am always looking for alternatives. Again I am not contesting this stuff is toxic, i dont use it on a daily basis and am real careful when handling it but if someone were to use it daily, a more biodegradable route should be taken.
I have used it to remove rust from chromed parts. It did nothing to the chrome. A little alum paint in the rust holes and the parts look a lot better. Here is a shocker!! I use it to remove the crusty stuff from carb bowls. I even pored some in the bottom of a Strom 97. It eats the crud but did not harm the carb. Of course I only sat it in there for 30-60 seconds. Anyway, the crud dissappeared and the carb looks great.
OSPHO user for almost 30 years now. My brothers 38 Chevy coupe was chemically stripped (redi-strip)twenty some years ago. As soon as we got it back we sprayed it down with OSPHO in hand held spray bottles till it was dripping out of everywhere. Blew the puddles around with an air hose till it was semi dry. Almost 30 yrs. later it still wears the paint from back then and has never popped out anywhere. Sorry I don't have a better pic but this is my 63 Chevy chassis that I sandblasted 10 years ago then drenched with OSPHO. It has sat around the shop for 10 years now with nothing but OSPHO on it and NO sign of any surface rust at all. Looks the same today as when I OSPHO'd it. Well, except for the cobwebs anyhow...
I bought "Driveway" cleaner at Lowes and a plastic feed tub from Tractor Supply. I diluted the Driveway cleaner 6:1 with water because I was doing frame parts and wanted to soak for 24 hrs. Took that 60 yr old rust right off. Buffed the parts with scotch brite pads and gave them a coat of primer. Worked well. OH BIG O= This was done outside under a carport attached to removed garage.
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