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Hot Rods Pete & Jake's Model A Front Shock Kit

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Muttley, Jul 7, 2014.

  1. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member

    Does anyone have any photo's and or tips on how to go about installing a Pete & Jake's BOLT ON front shock kit on a full fendered Model A? Should be easy right? Right?!? :eek: :confused: The rivets on the front crossmember look to be in the way of the bolt on brackets. The tech guy suggested that I weld the crossmember in and grind the rivets down. :mad: When I informed him welding the crossmember in wasn't an option and that I'm not working on a bare frame he suggested just sending the kit back. :rolleyes: Anyone out there in HAMB land installed one of these bolt on kits with the original rivets in place? Anyway, here's what I'm working on in case anyone cares:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here's a picture of the shock kit:

    [​IMG]



     
  2. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,720

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Could you drill holes in the shock mounts where the rivets are? You know so it clears?
     
  3. I kinda had the same problem, except I've got a JW Rod Garage frame, but I had a problem with the shock brackets and fender brackets getting in each others way. I wound up cutting the ears off the shock brackets and welding them on. People just don't realize how much easier it is to build a fenderless car, but to me the full fendered look is worth the extra effort. Mighty nice lookin coupe you've got there.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Put the bottom mounts on. Put the shock on. Place the top mount where it is supposed to go. If the rivets are in the way then drill them out and put bolts in. Done!!
     

  5. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member

    I thought of that and it's most likely what I'll end up doing.

    I've got to get under the car tomorrow anyway, I'll try and mock it up and see what it looks like. It's just really frustrating when something is marketed as a "bolt on" and you have to end up cutting it up to get it to fit.
     
  6. Aren't there some bolts with heads that look like rivets?McMaster-Carr or Fastenal?
     
  7. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member

    It belongs to my Dad, I'll pass along your compliment.
     
  8. 26hotrod
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 889

    26hotrod
    Member
    from landis n c

    Call p&j about the rivet head bolts. They may have them..................
     
  9. 26hotrod
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 889

    26hotrod
    Member
    from landis n c

    Oh yeah. Great looking coupe......................
     
  10. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,359

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    I tell people all the time that "bolt on" doesn't mean fast or easy, it just means it installs with bolts.


    I've got to get under the car tomorrow anyway, I'll try and mock it up and see what it looks like. It's just really frustrating when something is marketed as a "bolt on" and you have to end up cutting it up to get it to fit. [/QUOTE]
     
  11. MAD 034
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 775

    MAD 034
    Member
    from Washington

    That coupe looks very nice -- like the wires.
     
  12. Those are called Carriage Bolts.
     
  13. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member

    I think you two misunderstood what I was asking for in the original post.

    Thanks, I'll pass that along to Dad.
     
  14. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member

    Dean, I don't need any bolts, I need their kit to fit properly without having to cut it to pieces. I could understand having to modify the parts if the frame weren't stock but it is. Why is it so hard to produce something advertised as "bolt on" to bolt on? It would have been nice if the catalog stated that modifications were necessary. Yes I realize that Hot Rodding is modifying but that could at least be stated in the ad. If it's not a direct bolt on don't advertise it as such.
     
    belair likes this.
  15. Yeah, I got that. Just passing on the correct name for "rivet head" bolts. And, did you really expect to bolt on "bolt on" parts? You know things rarely ever go like that. ;)
     
  16. thats bullshit when "bolt on" is advertised and it's not. send the shit back and make your own that clear the rivits! as long as they have been around tells me they don't give a shit! simply adding "minor mods needed" would generate a positive customer base instead of the inconvenience of "negative feedback" my blatant misrepresentation!
     
  17. pontman
    Joined: Mar 18, 2011
    Posts: 399

    pontman
    Member

    This is good stuff to know. I bought a 29 Fordor and this info will help me in the future.
     
  18. dualquads
    Joined: Apr 9, 2012
    Posts: 80

    dualquads
    Member

    frustrating i know, if it says it bolts on then that is what you expect, not the end of the world to sort though, i fitted these to my 30 coupe, drilled a suitable size hole in the bracket to allow the rivet head to fit through, lined it up, drilled the frame and bolted the brackets on just behind the fender braces, biggest pain was getting to some of the bolt heads as they are around the point where the front crossmember joins the frame rail, one thought, are you using standard model a spring perches ? i think you need later ones or aftermarket as there isnt enough thread on the a ones to bolt on the lower shock mount...

    kev
     
    a40lover likes this.
  19. 26hotrod
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 889

    26hotrod
    Member
    from landis n c

    WHEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  20. Check out Mac's P/N 28-22028-1 kit. The Model A guys in my club have used these and, I believe, they do bolt right on.
     
  21. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member

    Had a chance to get a closer look at what this entails this morning while changing the oil. There is no getting around it, either the bracket must be modified or the crossmember must have the rivet(s) removed and be welded in. Obviously, modifying the bracket for clearance is is the right choice in this case so that's what I'll be doing. I was under the impression that the only modification that would need to be made were the four holes (on each side) to mount the brackets. The modification to the bracket isn't a huge deal, it just would have been nice to know about it in the first place. I would also like to pass along a suggestion to P&J just in case anyone from there happens to read this thread...............get a hold of a stock Model A frame and include the necessary holes to clear the stock rivet(s) in your kits. Not only would they be easier to install for customers who don't have welded in crossmembers but they would also serve as locators so that there would be no eyeballing or guesswork as to where to drill the mounting holes for the shock brackets. I'll post some pictures once the parts are painted and installed.
     
  22. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member

    Thanks for the suggestion but I'm just going to stick with the P&J kit. I'm also planning to use a set of these for the rear:

    [​IMG]



     
  23. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,410

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    You'll have to pull the drums and install longer bolts – maybe you already realized this.

    Also, a no-weld solution for the upper mount could get interesting.
     
  24. lucas doolin
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 414

    lucas doolin
    Member

    If you don't want to modify the brackets, could you not make a spacer to go between the bracket and the frame, with holes drilled for the rivet heads to clear. Would not alter the geometry and no mods to the frame or brackets. Just saying.
     
  25. dualquads
    Joined: Apr 9, 2012
    Posts: 80

    dualquads
    Member

    i have those on the rear of my a as well on a 40 axle, they do bolt on !

    kev
     
  26. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,791

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Did you plan on new front spring perches too? The stock ones won't be long enough to hold those bolt-on lower mounts.
     
  27. Orange54
    Joined: Mar 6, 2004
    Posts: 795

    Orange54
    Member
    from Missouri

    http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html
    Might be beside the point but I bought these and they bolted on with no problem. I have not yet put my fenders on but I have a friend that has the same set up and no problem. You do have to drill 2 holes in your axle on the front.

    The backs bolt right on.
     
  28. Orange54
    Joined: Mar 6, 2004
    Posts: 795

    Orange54
    Member
    from Missouri

  29. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,417

    Muttley
    Member



    No, the car car the longer ones with the adjustable perch. ;)


    Yeah, should have had those ready to go when it was put together the first time. :oops: I guess it will give us a chance to make sure everything is OK inside. :rolleyes: I was thinking about drilling a hole in the rear crossmember and bolting a shock mount there. I haven't examined closely weather that plan will work or not yet. :confused: I still need to get the rear mounts ordered and then go from there.

    I may end up doing that. ;)



    Right on. :cool:


    Yep, got 'em. ;)
     

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