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Technical Pertronix Help

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by kartune, Apr 19, 2020.

  1. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    Hello everyone. I have a 57 Ford Ranch Wagon with a 71 Ford 400 engine, I built the car myself many years ago, I have over 23,000 miles on it trouble free. I had an engine fire in late 2018 and since I'm getting old I had a professional mechanic friend of mine fix the damage. I was running a Accel distributor but it was trashed so I bought a Pertronix Flamethrower distributor. After the car was fixed it ran great for a while but suddenly when I would accelerate hard I get a backfire then eventually it just wouldn't start. I had no spark tried everything I know to do but nothing worked. I then ordered a new module and installed it, still no spark. My mechanic friend came over to help but even he was stumped. Out of frustration I bought a stock distributor, because I have had such good luck with Pertronic in my other cars I decided to install an Igniter II, got it all installed and it fired right up. It was running great and I was so happy. Well yesterday I wanted to get it our for some exercise, I drove about two miles and it just quit, no spark. What the hell am I doing wrong! If anyone has any advise i would appreciate it. I know some will say go back to points and forget it, which I might do,
    but the Pertronix I have used in my other cars have been bullet proof. Thanks.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  2. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,976

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  3. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,866

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    What kind of troubleshooting have you done? Have you followed the information available from Pertronix? Or checked in with them for advice?
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  4. I have been running Pertronix modules in both my cars for year without any problem. The one thing I see over and over again is failures when you do not have the correct coil with the module. I always but the Pertronix Coil with the module.
     
    hrm2k, LM14, triumph 1 and 3 others like this.

  5. Are you using the suggested Pertronix flamethrower 50,000 volt coil? HRP
     
  6. mark latham
    Joined: Oct 24, 2018
    Posts: 104

    mark latham
    Member

    Check grounds, and are you running the recommended plug wires and coil?
     
    rockable likes this.
  7. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,040

    Dave Mc
    Member

    I had similar problem , Bubba said " Junk Chinese Flamethrower Coil is always the problem, get a Bosch # 9220081083 " I did = problem solved
     
    loudbang and olscrounger like this.
  8. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    I have followed their information and have been double checked by my mechanic friend but can't figure it out. I have the right coil 12v to the coil and so forth. I pretty stumped. I might just try putting the points back in it and see what happens. Like I said the Pertronix in my other cars have been perfect.
     
  9. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    Yes I am. I can't figure out why it runs great for a while and then quits, usually Petronix are go/no go.
     
  10. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    Great to know, I will give it a try! Thanks
     
    Dave Mc likes this.
  11. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    Yes.
     
  12. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    I had changed it to what Pertronix recommended for the Ignitor II.
     
  13. They are “purty” smart,,, them magnetic hall sensors.
    I’ve had a few that were “go for a while” then no go. Them other unitard and the damn Might suddenly die things all have problems and are unforgiving for doing dumb shit and wrong parts. Ya might go thru a few before you get a stop getting bad ones or get pissed off enough to find and fix the assumption that’s actually causing the failure.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2020
  14. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,524

    sdluck
    Member

    When it dies is there still power to the coil?
     
  15. dan griffin
    Joined: Dec 25, 2009
    Posts: 473

    dan griffin
    Member

    The ignitor 11 is high amperage system, the ignition switch may not be up to the load. Run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil.
     
    firstinsteele likes this.
  16. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,040

    Dave Mc
    Member

    Common characteristic of a bad coil = when it gets hot it quits.
     
    olscrounger, wheeldog57 and X38 like this.
  17. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,866

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    That's a pretty good clue right there that it aint the Pertronix, right?
    Remember, these just act as an electronic version of a set of points. Think, how does a point system work? What do you need for a points system to work properly? It's the same with a Pertronix system, only there is no points and no condenser. If the module fails, it's not going to start working again, something else is wrong.
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  18. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 25,258

    Jalopy Joker
    Member


  19. Call Pertronix customer service

    Ben
     
  20. Well lookie lookie there!
    They do, they do, I say they do come with instructions on how to outsmart the fickle little bitches.
     
    Blues4U and triumph 1 like this.
  21. My Pertronix Flamethrower is still working after 20000 miles.

    Ben
     
  22. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    Yes, 12v.
     
  23. kartune
    Joined: Oct 7, 2008
    Posts: 27

    kartune
    Member
    from Mounds, Ok

    I had done that early on, my coil gets a full 12 volts.
     
  24. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,934

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    How would a jumper wire from the battery work exactly? It has to be switched or the ignition is always "on". 12V power needs to be switched.
    SPark
     
  25. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,976

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Still suspect of coil. My son's 40 would do this as well-run fine for a bit then quit. Let it sit a while and it would start then die after a few minutes--coil was bad. It was an ignitor and their coil-new coil solved the problem. I was going to take my 40 somewhere so went and got gas and came back. It would not start. Put a sparkplug on one wire and had wife crank it--very weak yellow spark. Went and got a coil out of my stash (Delco) started right up-been there for 4 years.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2020
    X38 and 31Vicky with a hemi like this.
  26. Testing only.
    2 alligator clips and a wire
    One clip on + coil.
    zip tie the wire Out of harms way.
    Other alligator clip on the battery +.
    Test drive.
    if the problem changes you’ll now have a place to look for problems and solutions.
    If no change you’ll know you can eliminate that voltage to the coil isn’t the issue.

    either way you get a partial win and it’s cheap and easy.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2020
    Jibs, Blues4U, Chief 64 and 3 others like this.
  27. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 5,854

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Hopefully you don't have the old ballast resistor ahead of the distributor still? Have you checked voltage to the distributor to ensure it's the full battery voltage, and not lower than 12.5 vdc?
     
  28. Yes a test light or volt meter will show that,,,
    But since the test gets done while not moving, with no load, with you under the hood it’s not a true test for your problem.
    It shows that you have power with switch on, that’s about it,, a cursory check at best.

    So how long, how many run time hours or minutes exactly are these new units lasting before they quit?
     
  29. fordor41
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 921

    fordor41
    Member

    I had trouble with my Pertronix but it was the coil. Was using stock Ford coil. They told me how to check the coil and I had to buy 2 to get one that had correct ohm readings. Seems like sec. to primary was 7500 ohms. It's been a while. They didn't seem to worry that it was not one of theirs, just must have correct ohm readings.
     
  30. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 3,010

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There are 2 things you need to check, besides the coil. First is grounding. Chrome plating, ceramic coating and paint are your enemies. With an ohmmeter, you should read less than .2 ohm (if I recall correctly) between the negative post of your battery and the distributor housing. In order to make sure my distributor was properly grounded, I tapped a 10-24 hole in the housing and added a 2nd ground wire to the firewall. Check your negative battery cable, it's connection to the block and the interface of the distributor and ground clamp to the block.

    Second, is your alternator/voltage regulator. If they are not consistently in spec, they will kill the module. You cannot have any "iffy" connections. Everything must be solid and you must not have an over voltage situation. Also, if one of the diodes in your alternator is leaking, you could be getting AC current to the module and that will kill it.

    Good grounding, good connections, good charging are hard and fast requirements. On my OT truck, I finally replaced the alternator (which has built in regulator) and my problems went away.

    Good luck!
     
    warbird1 and Truckdoctor Andy like this.

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