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pertronix failed again!! any suggestions?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chucksrodgarage, Sep 8, 2013.

  1. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,033

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have had several Pertronix coils go bad
     
  2. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,010

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    why not use the MOPAR electronic ign that was OEM on later /6's. Plug and play with the correct donor car, assuming you have changed to 12V neg. Several folks have converted those systems and modified distributors to fire their flathead 6's once they went to 12V.
     
  3. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    points triggering an MSD. You'll probably never replace the points in your lifetime...
     
  4. You say it has a slant 6 in it if so use the stock mopar electronic dist in it and quit messing around with the aftermarket junk. It is a simple conversion.
     
  5. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,363

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    Ignition modules die from heat. They use the distributor mounting plate as a heat sink. Look at the size of the contact surface of an HEI module compared to the ignitor II. The HEI module is mounted to the aluminum housing and uses it as a heat sink with thermal conducting grease.

    With the Pertronix you have a smaller area going to a steel breaker plate. The contact between these two surfaces will be critical. They must be clean, then coated with the thermal conducting grease. Use a scotchbrite or similar to polish the two surfaces, drop by an electronics store and get a good quality thermal grease for a CPU Not much better but better, easier to apply with the Syringe).

    The Ignitor II is rated for a .6 ohm coil. I would add a .25 Ohm ballast resistor to drop the current if I had a low ohm coil and experienced repeated failure. Place it next to the coil, the module wants 12 volts.

    The despiking diodes are a good idea, the AC clutch is a big offender. When we would lose one (they are in the connector) we got all kids of issues.

    Rarely do we need a super hot ignition on a relatively stock engine. A little moderation on coil current can greatly extend component life. For your 6 I would want closer to 1.5 ohms total (coil plus ballast).

    With a breaker point ignition we are maxed out at 4 amps, and HEI was 5.5 and needed a large heat sink to survive.

    Of course metal wires would be a no-no.

    jm2c
     
  6. 4woody
    Joined: Sep 4, 2002
    Posts: 2,101

    4woody
    Member

    I almost agree: Run the Mopar electronic dizzy, but with a basic GM 4-pin HEI module. Best of both worlds. Cheap & simple.

    Much discussion & explaination of it at Slantsix.org:
    http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779
     
  7. c334charlie
    Joined: Nov 30, 2012
    Posts: 19

    c334charlie
    Member

    we have had good luck with pertronix ing. but. you can not run solid core plug wire. they will kill pertronix modules.
     
  8. terryr
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 286

    terryr
    Member
    from earth

    And probably solid spark plugs as well.

    I try to use factory stuff whenever possible. They are made to last the warranty. Aftermarket stuff is made to get out the door of the store.
    And if you want parts? Factory is easy. Aftermarket, forget it. Buy an entire new one buddy.

    This guy has some stuff on factory electronic ignition;

    http://www.gofastforless.com/
     
  9. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,079

    sunbeam
    Member

    Ya the factory went to electronic just so they could sell more stuff.
     
  10. chucksrodgarage
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 180

    chucksrodgarage
    Member
    from wisconsin

    just got this email from one of the head people at pertronix. he also attatched a link on testing power and ground.
    no i am running taylor spiral core wires, all testing at 2000 ohms or greater


    Hi Chuck,



    I am not sure exactly what steps our tech department recommended. I would guess that they went through the whole resistance wire thing, They hopefully verified that your system is 12V, and they probably hammered you about power and grounds. If not, please do go through the steps in the attached PWRGND document, because bad power and ground circuits account for 90% of our customer’s problems with Ignitor modules. Sometimes they are not obvious problems.



    The tech department may also have asked you whether you are running solid core plug wires. My best guess is that your issue has something to do with this. Ignitor II modules will not last long at all running in the presence of solid core plug or coil wires. You can check them by removing a plug wire and placing the leads of an Ohm meter on each end. There should be at least 500 Ohms of resistance across the wire if it is not solid core. Don’t worry if there is a lot more resistance, the spark energy has no problem getting through the suppression wires, it is only the noise that gets blocked.



    Please do that check, (don’t forget to check the coil wire too) and if you still have a problem, you can send the module to me directly (mail it in with “ATTENTION: Patrick” on the label). I will dissect the module and see if I can figure out why it failed.
     
  11. chucksrodgarage
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 180

    chucksrodgarage
    Member
    from wisconsin

    this is the link he sent. don't know if it copied correctly though.



    PWRGNDCHK10JUL 029.docView online
    Do
     
  12. chucksrodgarage
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 180

    chucksrodgarage
    Member
    from wisconsin

  13. chucksrodgarage
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 180

    chucksrodgarage
    Member
    from wisconsin

    last one should work
     

  14. Nope, it's asking for a name and password to view it.
     
  15. This!
    Do you happen to have a schematic on how to wire?
     
  16. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 7,733

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    With a Chiltons manual that has a Chrysler electronic ignition wiring diagram its not hard to wire up the OEM equipment that can be bought at all the parts stores,done it on a 68 Newport years ago and use the OEM electronic ignitions on all the cars I convert.
     
  17. 4woody
    Joined: Sep 4, 2002
    Posts: 2,101

    4woody
    Member

  18. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,363

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    Be sure to heat sink the GM Module if you go that way.
     
  19. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,410

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    My pertronix is 7 yrs old on my 390 fe ford.Just sayin!
     
  20. I've used pertronix in everything I've built. Fords, Chevys, Buicks, Packards... never had one fail. I have one that is going on 17 years old!

    I have seen a couple coils fail (not mine) due to heat and being left on.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2013
  21. lizzard71
    Joined: Nov 11, 2011
    Posts: 28

    lizzard71
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    I too have a Pertronix kit and coil in a SBC since 2001 with no problem.
     
  22. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,515

    73RR
    Member

    ...I fail to understand why anyone would use pertronix in a Mopar when the factory electronic system and replacement parts are readily available everywhere ....

    .
     
  23. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,189

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Personally, I would stay with a points and condenser ignition. Easy to fix in the middle of nowhere and they have worked well for many years.
     
  24. wingman9
    Joined: Dec 30, 2009
    Posts: 804

    wingman9
    Member
    from left coast

    Good call, George. I've been using this setup since the early '70s. Works great. Not really traditional but the box is hidden behind the dash. Nobody should be looking under there anyway. :eek:
     
  25. Your belief would be fully wrong. Out failure rate is well below the industry standards and more importantly the PerTronix Modules are made in San Dimas California, so please do not try and start rumors about our electronioc products being Chinese
     
  26. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Really, although I like the MSD/points deal, I agree with this. Nothing at all wrong with the factory Chrysler stuff for this application.
     
  27. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 28,099

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have never run a Petronix ign in anything of my own but from dealing with electronic ignition problems on a number of other setups I'd have to say that any rig having multiple ignition system failures on the same component has some additional problem added in to the mix.

    As others said, voltage spike, high voltage, wrong grounds or other incorrect installation. Add in something in the secondary circuit that is causing too high of a resistance and who knows what else in the mix.
     
  28. Speed~On
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 1,288

    Speed~On
    Member

    FWIW-
    I use a PerTronix as well. I have the Pertronix II and I believe they recommend that you use the Pertronix II Coil (which I believe is the high output flamethrower coil) as they are designed to run together. Hotroddon would know for sure. Make sure the coil you are using is compatible with the Pertronix unit in your distributor.

    Also, as was stated and I'm sure you know, I never leave my key in the 'on' (or 'Power') position for ANY length of time as it will fry the PerTronix unit.
     
  29. Been running a pertronix II in my rocket for about 4 years now and runs great. And with a 32A generator.

    I blew my first pertronix (I) because I used the wrong coil with it. I then talked to pertronix about it and then went with a pertronix II with one of there coils this way I had a complete matching system. Been running ever since.

    The other thing I did was remove my dizzy when I installed the module so I could properly space the module and insure proper spacing over the entire dizzy rotation.

    As someone said above you may have some underlying issues if you keep blowing these units.

    Good luck.
     

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