performance of a Duntov 30/30 camshaft

I ran them in 327's and 301's . I am a big cam fan so they never bothered me. Except for setting the lifters alot. Now they make hydraulic versions? Would that be comparable to a pocket pussy? Take a chance on it gain some experience. They are easy to change out. It's only time and money.

 

Yup, the L-79 cam is part #3863151 it's the hydraulic 350 hp 327 cam. For a truly vintage SBC grind it's tough to beat. Nasty sound, easy on the valve train, and still available from most major parts suppliers. There's just something I appreciate about old technology, just like bias plys....

 

Yeah, what he ^^^^ said! ..... On another note, don't use the factory aluminum L-79 intake manifold!! Not only is it "fugly" It's also very restrictive on some of the intake ports. You'd make more horse power with the 302/LT-1 intake or a Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold.

 

Ive ran them in 283,s they work good with a stick and gears. Dont know how much RPM I never ran a tach. I just built a 327 for our 55 2dr wagon. Edelbrock C4B intake and 57 fuelie heads. Stock 69 flatop pistons.Itr will be backed by a four speed and ford 9 inch 411 rear. I think Im gonna have a hard time getting the little woman to let me drive it OldWolf

 

LOL.... Good luck!

 

I am using a wide range muncie with a lower first gear...

 

Thanks for the advice...I may look into a different cam being im using the 3.55 gears...

 

He said exactly what I was going to. I had one in my T and then pulled the engine and put it in my 48 and adjusting the valves every couple of weeks gets pretty tiresome if you are really going to put miles on it.

They sound great and run great if you have everything else to go with them but plan on spending lots of time with the valve covers off and a feeler gauge in your hand and a ratchet and deep 5/8 in the other.

 

I have a Howards 510-242 @.50 in my roadster...built the engine 2 years ago and I put good comp cams roller rockers on it with good poly locks and I have never had to adjust them yet...I have had good luck so far...and besides...I like adjusting the rockers and have no problem with that side of a solid cam. I just love the noise they make!

 

I would like to add that I have two engines currently with solid lifter cams. Using modern aluminum roller rocker arms I have found that the lash rarely has to be set. Modern gear seems to hold the lash much better than the old OEM parts. One cam is a factory 427/L-71 grind and the other is a bottom of the page Comp Cam Extreme Energy stick for a 327. So, use stiff pushrods, roller rockers, good springs and you're set for many miles.

 

Fwiw, I ran a junk engine's used -097 cam along with it's coffee-canned solid lifters before I learned that I had to keep them matched to their lobes fine in my long gone ol' junk301!! (Bought new and still have '67SS/RS Camaro, M-20 and 3.31 posi car).

Sucker was a hoot from like 25 to 3,000 on up to above 7,500 rpm with new points! A week later and only up to like 7,000 rpm tho once the points spring got broken in.

All this said, the 30-30/-346 solid cam (365 and 375hp/327 engines) is a completely different high rpm animal than the old -097 cam top dawg 283's and 340 and 360hp/327 engines).



I strongly suggest installing Isky's old Z-30 solid lifter cam if you have your heart set on a 30-30 cam. A Z-30 cam will still be pulling at 7,200 and higher rpm in high gear so be prepared to rpm her like she's meant to be ran!!

And be Careful because she will go above 8,000 rpm easy in a 301/302 and 327 engine if you don't shift early enough or perhaps miss a shift!

pdq67

 

Back again, forgot to mention the '67/'68/'69 302 Z-28 engine's used the old 30-30 cam.

Sorry about that..

pdq67

 

Every thing else being equal a 350 hp/327 cam (the 151 as mentioned) will outperform the .030/.030 in everyday street driving. However you'll never match the sound of those lifters set so they sound like a threshing machine. So it's either sound good..............or go fast.

Frank

 

Ding... ding... ding... "Hotrod" did dyno tests that proved the 151 to out perform the 30/30 at a substantially greater rpm range!

Came to life sooner and almost pulled up to the 30/30 top end but not quit as high proving to be a better all around cam versus the 30/30!

 

I used both the 30-30 and the "151" cam, much prefer the "151", as it was easier to maintain and ran and ran and ran.

 

Im still on the fence between the 30-30 and the l-79 cam...I will probably go with the L-79 cam for the lower end power I think...3.55 gears I dont think will be enough. Thanks for all the input!

 

if you think you want solids, try the .097 Duntov, used in the 283 /270 and fuellies. Lots better low end and it will crank some serious rpms too. Used a lot of them back in the 60s on 283's and 301"s. Not as healthy on the low end as a hydraulic cam though. By the way, where can yu get an .097 cam now, does anyone know.

 

Fwiw, I ran the old -151 hy-cam in my '67SS/RS engine 1200 miles from new for several years. Cost me change out of a $20 and a case a Bud that evening!!

I have to say that it changed the characteristics of my 350 engine drastically.

It had a 3rd gear topend charge with my M-20, 3.31 posi and anywhere from stock D-70/14's at 25.3" to 25.5"s tall tires to Mud&Snow's at 29.5" tall tires that would run most cars down once outta the hole!!

pdq67

 

easyrider47--elgin makes a duplicate of the 097 cam in the procomp series--just put one in my 57 fuel injected BelAir--car has 3:70 posi and a 3spd--run very well and the FI likes it--pulls hard from about 2000 and really comes on after about 4000--and I love the sound of solids-this cam also runs very well in a 327 I have--