SO I have an old bent axle with good bones (I've already split them) but now I need to get the bones off the axle. I've soaked cotter pin bolts in mmo, I tried "wicking", I've beat with a punch and a 5lb sledge . still connected. SO I ground head and cotter pin off of one side. Wicked repeatedly, soaked. beat some more. NO GO.is there a solution? an easy out? more brute force? WTF is the secret? what tonnage do i need to get these sob's out? anyone got pics of jig used to hold the whole fucking asssembly if you used big press. Ryan
Been there.....the onliest way I had [no access to a press] was to heat and beat with emphisis on the heat. If I was doing it and the axle was no good, I'd cut the axle up with a torch to get the bones. Drilling down through the middle of the perch bolts will help relieve prressure from mushrooming the goddamn bolt! You can bet after you beat the livin shit outa those bolts, they've swelled in the hole. A hole drilled through them will help get 'em moving if you have no access to a "blue wrench".......
Dude,I had to use a 45 ton press and a torch to get them out.Your right, it is a pain in the ass.I guess Henry never heard of Never-Seaze.
Big Rosebud tip on the torch. In my experience I heat the axle and the perch to red hot..takes a while. Let it partly cool until all red is gone. Now reheat and focus on the axle around the perch bolt but not the bolt so much. Big hammer and a couple cracks. If it don't move a little in 2 or 3 cracks repeat above process. If axle will be discarded I just cut/trim the axle away from the perch bolt. Can be quite a vigorous activity Steve
[ QUOTE ] what tonnage do i need to get these sob's out? [/ QUOTE ] I made a press specifically for this job. 12+ tons and 20 minutes of cutting torch heat wasn't enough for mine. [ QUOTE ] SO I ground head and cotter pin off of one side. [/ QUOTE ] If they are anything like mine,the nut is tapered like a wheel nut. So grinding it down flush isn't enough.And the top is tapered too. I would suggest you drill them out,or cut the axle.
spring in front bones side a : the side I gound the cotter nut and the head off of. side b : I "wicked" the nut off. both bolts are still stuck. Mutiliation has begun on side a. five sawzall blades and 1 hacksaw mini-bootcamp later the axle is split. All I have at home is a propane bottle job and I burnt up the 20 dollar grinder turned makeshift cutting torch. Hopefully I'll get to the shop this busy week and torch-rescue this side. Side b I'm going to try and practice patience and keep heating/wicking. But if after freeing side a by the mutilation method I'm still stuck on side b, then further mutilation will follow. Thanks for the help. Self doubt was creeping in. But just the acknowledgment that its a bitch for everyone lends enough in the perservence bank to continue battling the eternal Rockwell 50 POS forging gods. Ryan
I tried everything including BFH, penetrating oil. heat wrench... Nothing worked. What did work was to cut off the perch bolt head and drill down the center.It finally came out. Be carefull to center the drill bit if you need to save the axle. Don
try heating the area and get some parrafin to melt around the bolt. have used it to unstick frozen bolts a few times with it. look for "canning wax" at the market. jerry
Sometimes, ya gotta just go midevil on 'em. cut, swear, beat, scream, pound, threaten, heat and maybe even spit at 'em with a couple "motherfucker"s thrown in for effect. Works for me.
what rocky said helps but drillin down the center and wakin it works best, mine came right out, drill as far through as you can. I just went through the rocky method about a mouth ago , my left thomb still hurts. later horty
I tried all of the above, nothing! So I got the sawzall and cut at the radius rod axle joint (all four) now I have two loose radius rods and an axle with the cutoff pins still in it! I will now drill through them, heat, and 20 ton press (20 ton press didn't even move em before!) If I get them out I will have to make "shim washers" to make up what the saw took out. Damn!
Drill a hole down the centre of the perch bolt nearly the whole way through large enough to loosely fit a 3/8 high grade bolt or cap screw in and then press it,the bolt should help collapse the sides of the perch bolt allowing it to move.It worked for me.
Heat, quench and beat hell out of it. Repeat as often as needed. The worst one I ever did I played with off and on for 2 days before I got it. The other side came out fine.
They pull easier than pushed. Rig up a little bottle jack on top and some supports and pull them out. Weld a lug on the top of the perch.
OA heat and an impact hammer, zip gun, rivet gun, jack hammer, etc - air powered hammer thing. Your arm will fall off before you beat them out from what it sounds like.
Haha! Yeah, used the same method as well and my thumb turned many different colors. I also tried all the other methods mentioned above, to no avail. I can't say that I saved the axle...nor the bones I ended up buying new ones. Blah.
I think some of you just need a bigger hammer. ... I haven't ran across a set yet I couldn't get out with enough heat and a 5 lb sledge... and I've took apart some rusty sob's. Brian
Here's a perch bolt puller I made that works quite well. Scroll down about half-way. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138025&highlight=perch+bolt+puller
I took Andy's suggestion and built this puller. Pushing or hammering on the bolt expands it making it tighter in the hole. Made from 3" channel, 3/4-16 threaded rod, flat bar etc. Tightned the puller, put heat on the axle, then hit the end of the perch with an air hammer (muffler tool). Do this over and over till bolt is out. Did not damage the perches.
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