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Technical Perch bolt shock mount help..what year is this from?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Goodguy65, Apr 27, 2017.

  1. Goodguy65
    Joined: Apr 24, 2017
    Posts: 46

    Goodguy65

    just purchased a 1936 ford coupe from the builder's daughter ( he passed away ) and have no idea on what what is happening here..looks like '42 spindles with juice brakes but cannot figure out if the wishbones etc are form '36. This is my first flathead Ford and am turning this into a traditional hot rod. I want the look of Dirty Dan's '36... IMG_1702.JPG IMG_1707.JPG
    any help would be very much appreciated!
     
  2. Squareback spindles and later juice brakes (46-48 2 adjusting cams), 35-36 perch pin and most likely a 35-36 axle.
     
  3. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,735

    The37Kid
    Member

    Shocks and the bolt on mounts are an aftermarket item. That hole in the bent out forging was for the old mechanical brake actuating arm mount.Bob
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  4. The spring is on the bump stops.
    It's too long or too flat or both.
    Were the bones split? That moves the perch ends closer together.
     

  5. Definitely a 35 36 wishbone. 35 - 36 wishbones curve out slightly toward the spindles. 37 to 40 are pretty much a straight shot. the 35-36 axle has the perch bolts closer together than the 37 to 40 wishbone. the curve in the spring perch on the 35 - 36 wishbone brings the location of the shackles to the same point as the 37 to 40 wishbone. That lets you use the same front spring for all 35 to 40 front ends.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  6. Goodguy65
    Joined: Apr 24, 2017
    Posts: 46

    Goodguy65

    Thanks for the quick response guys!
    So I can cut that piece off to clean up the front then..?
    I believe the bump stop is above the axle? You are right though the spring looks tired..the spring is likely not too long because the shackle angle looks correct no?
    I want to get the nose down 4-5 ". The bones are not split currently. Is this something I should consider or should I purchase an axle kit from Posies that doesn't require splitting the bones?
     
  7. Goodguy65
    Joined: Apr 24, 2017
    Posts: 46

    Goodguy65

    Thanks NJ! so if I want a drop axle should I be switching the bones to a 37-40 style and have them split? most stuff I have read all point to that solution...trying to be Scottish here...
     
  8. you can do that if you want to, however the easiest way to do it, is to either get the axle you already have dropped (Kohler Custom does real nice work) and then put it back in your original wishbone. Or you can get a Super Bell dropped axle for stock wishbone. If your leaving the stock trans there is no need to split the wishbone at all. Then use a Posies reversed eye front spring for stock un-split wishbone. I would drop the axle you have, Ford stuff is always the best. A 33 to 36 axle will get you about 2 inches of drop out of it, and narrow up the track width a little for steering clearance. Yes I said two inches of drop, the 33 to 36 axles already have about 2 inches of drop built into them from the perch pin boss to the king pin boss, so when you add it together with a 2 inch drop on it it works out the same as a 4 inch drop after market axle. I purposely go a 36 wishbone just to put a dropped 36 axle in to swap out on my 39 to lower the front more. the 37 to 40 axles are not as easy to get much drop out of because of how close the perch pin boss is to the king pin boss, just not enough material to get a decent drop out of it. If you want to go with a Super Bell axle just call Pete and Jakes, and tell them you want a four inch drop axle and new spring for a 36 with an unsplit wishbone. They can hook you right up.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  9. Goodguy65
    Joined: Apr 24, 2017
    Posts: 46

    Goodguy65

    awesome info! thanks much...I am going to call Kohler..on the west coast of Canada but may be worth the shipping and exchange rate to put Ford iron back under the car..do I need to change up the steering arms, tie rods and drag link then? have any great suggestions for the rear? want to leave the columbia 2spd in it with the transverse leaf set up..
     
  10. You will need to take your original spindles and heat and bend them to clear the dropped axle. I would modify them to clear, and then replace the king pins and bushings afterwards. If you don't want to the heat and bend of the original spindles, DONT'T CUT THE STEERING ARMS OFF! Sell the original spindles and get a new set from Pete and Jakes or someplace that you can use the bolt on steering arms with. They make new spindle all day long so don't cut the original ones off, someone else can use them. You will need to shorten you tie rod and drag link the same amount that the axle is narrowed up. sometimes you can just trim the ends off a little bit and screw the tie rod in to make up the difference. it all depends on the amount the axle has been narrowed. but replacement tie rods and drag links are not too expensive and you can get them in the appropriate widths for you front end.

    As for the rear, I would start with a new Posies rear spring and see what you think. IF that doesn't get you quite low a enough, a friend of mine here in VA makes brackets that bolt to the wish bone and space the axle up a bit more, I think its like an inch or so. That with the spring should get you pretty close to how you want it to look. That Columbia rear is super cool. Wish I still had the one I sold a few years ago. It would have been great in my 39 sedan!.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  11. Goodguy65
    Joined: Apr 24, 2017
    Posts: 46

    Goodguy65

    Thanks for info once again! I took your advice and called Andy Kohler..great guy and very helpful. He will also bend my steering arms at the same time he does the axle so everything is a near perfect match! I was seriously considering a Posies spring for the rear but unsure if it will get it down low enough...I am running a tall tire ( 7.00 x 16 ) so want the top of the tire tucked in..
     
  12. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,250

    lodaddyo
    Member

    You can get the posies spring for the rear. If its not lower you can make longer shackles .
    Or if you have a press you can reverse the eyes on your stock main yourself. I just lowered the rear of my 47 that way. Reversed eye main leaf and longer rear shackles. Lots of great tech info on here about reversing spring eyes. I made the new shackles by cutting and drilling 1" flat bar . 1/4" thick. I made mine 6" center to center. Had to file the hole on one end to make it square. Worked great. Working on shortening the track bar right now. Mine came stock with track bars front and rear. I dont believe yours
    Does. You would definitely need to add
    One if you do the shackle method. Keeps the rear from too much side to side movement

    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
     
  13. the Posies rear spring should get you about 2 1/2 inches drop over a stock one. Old springs have been doing there job for a long time, so they are not as stong as they once were. I would think about changing the spring out. The Posies ride really nice and, if its not quite low enough you can get a bit more drop by using 41 shackles in the rear and new stock type shackle bushings. that should get you another 3/4 to 1 1/4 drop, and not affect handling.​
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  14. Goodguy65
    Joined: Apr 24, 2017
    Posts: 46

    Goodguy65

    great ride height on the '47..do you know of anyone that has done a track / panhard bar on a '36 banjo rearend. also what si the safest way to remove the springs without putting a hole in my shop wall or me?cool build thread btw on the roadster! nice work
     
  15. Goodguy65
    Joined: Apr 24, 2017
    Posts: 46

    Goodguy65

    41 shackles...does the combo of those shackles and the posies leaf present and angle issues with shackle once mounted do you know? or do you think it will still have the correct 45 degree angle? I think my stock spring is beginning to give it up because it already looks somewhat lowered..
     
  16. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,189

    manyolcars

    Nope. Those shock mounts are stock Ford. But my memory fails me 46/47? maybe pickup?
     
  17. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,250

    lodaddyo
    Member

    Thanks! I got side tracked fooling with this 47. Ill get back on the roadster soon. I removed the stock rubber bump stops on the rear. Put some 1" bump stops from energy suspension. Have about 5" till the axle hits the frame. Im working on shock mounts. When you remove the spring make sure you jack the frame up and get all the tension off the spring. Then you can remove the shackles and then unbolt the spring from the crossmember. I think anyone of the aftermarket panhard kits would work. It will take a little fabrication
     
  18. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,735

    The37Kid
    Member

    Ok, but they were never on the 1936 Ford when it left the factory. Bob
     
  19. it wont be quite at 45 degrees but its pretty close. They are a little longer than the stock shackle that's how you get the drop, It wont cause any crazy handling issues, but any longer than the 41 shackles it probably would with out a pan-hard bar. Ive done it on a 39 coupe of a friend of mines and he loves how it drives. I have the shackles to do it to my 39 rear spring but have yet to get the posies rear spring for it.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.

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