Register now to get rid of these ads!

"PENETROL" use it , or not.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FEDSLED, Dec 6, 2004.

  1. FEDSLED
    Joined: Jan 4, 2003
    Posts: 251

    FEDSLED
    Member
    from lynnweed

    How many of you guys have used or tried this stuff, it says it conditions the metal for a better paint adhesion. my question is, we plan on using DP90 on the car,it is in bare metal but has some hard to get to spots where this stuff might help. do you spray the whole car with it first and let it dry then clean it for the paint or mix it with the paint or do you not recomend it at all.
    any thoughts.
    FED
     
  2. kritz
    Joined: Aug 6, 2003
    Posts: 553

    kritz
    Member
    from flint, mi

    i've used it to add to my one shot while striping, seems to do just fine with that..seemed to make the stripes a little more durable and doesn't seem to have any negative effects on dry time or anything.

    as far as mixing with paint, or using as a pre- paint prep, i have no ideas...some of the painters on here might know...might want to pm mikeo about it...
     
  3. ResedaCoupe
    Joined: Nov 8, 2004
    Posts: 109

    ResedaCoupe
    Member

    FED,
    I used penetrol (white quart can?) when working on wooden boats, and oil based paints.
    I would not use it with the DP primer. If you are using the DP90LF or the DP90(with lead) I would spend the time prepping the sheetmetal. I used the old PPG DP alot and it will stick to anything. I don't think the penetrol would help the DP cure, which is one of DPs weak points. It likes warmth for many hours to really cure.
    There are some metal conditioners out there, I use them if I have a large area or many pieces. These are different the cleaner you used just before you spray. Check with your paint supplier, most are water based, some swear by em and some swear at em.
    To reach difficult areas you could adjust you fan pattern or use a jamb gun.
    Most painters become master chemists who have no use for directions, soon you too can do this.
    One of my paint reps said - Try it our way first, then try it your way.
    I used the PPG stuff in garage air dry situations. Feel free to PM me.
    Hope it Helps

    Steve



     
  4. Penetrol is a product made by the Flood co.,,,,it is used as an additive in oil based paints,,,I have sold it for years as a product targeted at home and industrial use.

    Penetrol,,,also used stright out of the can will make a old faded out fiberglass boat look like brand new,,, [​IMG]HRP
     

  5. FEDER
    Joined: Jan 5, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    FEDER
    Member

  6. whizzerick
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,109

    whizzerick
    Member

    Fedsled, for outstanding adhesion I would recommend starting with an Etching Primer (I use Sherwin Williams GBP980). It is a reactive (phosphating) base that actually 'bites' (etches) into the metal and will greatly promote adhesion of the primer. All major companies have etching primers as part of their systems.

    When I need to coat hard-to-reach areas,I will usually crank the air pressure, lower material output and spray in the recesses.

    In my humble opinion, it is a mandatory step for proper protection of sheetmetal.

    Just my 2 cents.
    whizzerick
     
  7. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,418

    DrJ
    Member

    I have used Penetrol in the past as a flow agent in the brushed-on varnish on the bed of my truck (an annual ritual, since the blue truck IS my daily driver and sits out all the time) and had good results with it, don't over do it though) but lately I have switched to a same-brand brushing agent as the varnish brand since the low voc formulas available now are so persnickity about formulas.
    Actually, I havent found a good easy flow shiny varnish available in about 6 years.
    They all fight the brush and dont shine worth a damn.

    Did I ever say I hate governments?
     
  8. Penetrol is better suited for Alkyd Enamels,like 1-Shot.




    I doubt very much it would help under modern Automotive finishes.
    The chemestry is entirely different.
     
  9. I agree with Rick; when starting with large areas of bare metal, I always use a self-etching primer. I also like the S-W stuff, but can't get it here, so I use the Martin Senour equivalent.
     
  10. FEDSLED
    Joined: Jan 4, 2003
    Posts: 251

    FEDSLED
    Member
    from lynnweed

    Thanks for all the input guys.
    FED
     
  11. grumpyredtruck
    Joined: Jan 20, 2017
    Posts: 1

    grumpyredtruck

    Can one use One Shot to paint the whole car with?
     
  12. philly the greek
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,864

    philly the greek
    Member
    from so . cal.

    Why , with all of the various brands and types of automotive specific paints available to everyone (along with the technical help available)
    would you even think about using a sign painting enamel to paint a car ?
     
  13. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 8,743

    5window
    Member

    That would be an awful lot of little tiny cans, too. :)
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.