The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by '52 F-3, Sep 14, 2014.
Ha ya went to far, its only about 20 posts back on this page.
For some one who bitches about poor reading comprehension on the forums I read that post three times and some how never retained that first paragraph, lol thanks for pointing it out
Haha, I knew I had seen it, but I had to hunt a few minutes to find it again. The human brain is a strange machine.
was very carefully adjusting rocker arms today, but something just wasn't going right. after I'd crank engine (ignition off) and go back around to recheck, some had loosened up? it took a few times to find this...
That sucks. Pins or screw ins to fix it?
yeah it is quite common for press in rocker studs to move after you have cranked a motor over with collapsed lifters...in which case you better check on pushrod condition too..... possibly bent or cracked /chipped ends/tips.
sometimes they will press back in and stay , but screw in studs is a better idea.
Don't try to loctite them in, unless you cut a groove down the side of the stud or the hole....if you don't, and you press them back in with oil or loctite etc, it will hydraulic and split the boss and wreck the head (I have seen this happen ). loctite 620 will work if the surfaces are very clean and the stud is still a tight fit in the head.....you still need a groove for the excess loctite to escape.
97; thanks for the replies and info about studs, what do you think about the ones below?
I ordered these screw in studs that don't require the boss machined flat. And this tool designed to help pull the studs and align the tap to cut threads straight. I don't like the ideas of taping while still installed but removing heads I like less
fyi, I bought these rebuild unique SBC heads that don't show up on any casting charts with stud/springs/valves installed. Think I'll pull a couple springs and test tension while I'm installing new stud.
So much easier to buy a box of 1/8" roll pins, drill and pin the studs. We did that 50 years ago before screw in studs were available. 100's of passes over 7500 rpm, and never a failure. Why make it harder?
Probably should check for coil bind too. Might have more lift than the springs will allow.
yes , just put plenty of grease around where you are tapping to catch the cuttings and clean it up carefully with a rag. Dean's way is the trad way .. you still have to press the studs all the way back to where they came from.
I did tonight, not all studs have moved, also all pushrods are undamaged
To my surprise antifreeze came out of first stud I removed, so I moved down to another cylinder and same thing. Is this normal on a small block chevy head? If so I guess I won't get any hydraulic lock when putting back in. Also that means metal tap pieces will be going into water passage.
since I discovered water on the first 2 pulled, and notice about 2/3rds of the studs have not moved at all. I might drill and pin as you suggest.
I still think I have something wrong with the valve timing, plan to put timing tape on my balancer and see what degree valves are starting to open/close etc...
Got all the studs replaced with screw in, and while doing I notice a problem. Many of the pushrods were rubbing on the valve cover spacer. Pictures show pretty good, I clearanced and put back together.
I'm really hoping that's the reason the valve weren't closing soon enough (not much compression) and the slow cranking speed with a fully charged battery. I got my fingers crossed these were my only problems.
Sounds like you’ve got it figured out
WHAT you mean you didn't paint the rockers GREEN?
(a little humor to brighten this mess)
I can't hear it running.... maybe I'm too far away.
Hopefully you will be showing up at York in June with this cool ride ??
LOL, no you couldn't hear it even if you were in my garage.
I really wanna have ready for driving this spring...(but without an interior)
So I just had to step away for awhile, the rocker studs wasn't the last problem. Everything seems to point to the camshaft being installed wrong or the wrong one.
I've been working on other projects but today I thought I better get back at it. Decided to cut top half of timing chain cover off and try to see whats going on. I'm really hoping cam is off like 120 degrees or something, but we'll see. Found my cam paperwork and going to try to check valve timing etc... tomorrow.
How did you manage to cut that with out getting metal down into everything?
I suspect you've already gone down the push rod length and rocker arm geometry road Anxious to see what the deal is with the engine.
I'm curious about that too.
Short answer is I didn't. But as with tapping of rocker studs I put grease on the cutting edge to catch as much metal as I could. I was carful as can be, but am sure some got inside.... I used this Multi-Tool with a bi-metal blade to do the cutting.
30tudor: I did check that stuff, but thanks...
so I was trying to visualize my valve timing and found this website that you can put in your camshaft specs and it make this.
I checked and recorded the valve timing of the cam as installed as best I could and then penciled next to what it should be.
So...... it looks like my camshaft is installed 120 degrees off.
Hmmm, I can't decide it that's good news or bad news. At least I know my next move.
Finally 1 step forward...
I was able to remove the 3 bolts from camshaft gear and rotate cam 120 degrees counter clockwise, (same as rotating crank 120 clockwise) then hang chain below crank gear and rotate chain and upper gear to line backup with cam. 1st try I was 1 tooth off, 2nd try my reference marks were lined up perfecto...
Installed and adjusted #1's rocker arms and bingo. Great compression (180psi), I installed all rocker arms and upper timing cover (with some shady tree'ing)
Hopefully have energy and time early next week to finish putting together and try to start again.
I expect you got the damper off by now. Of course the cover needs to be replaced and the pan needs to come down anyway if for nothing else than cleaning.
Picture in post 498 makes a lot of people very nervous. And for good reason. Sometimes when we think we see the light at the end of the tunnel we get a little more anxious than we should. You've shown a lot of patience and attention to detail throughout this build, now is not the time to hurry. Tread lightly young warrior.
Turning the cam 120 degrees CCW is not the same as turning the crank 120 degrees CW. While not impossible; it does seem it would have been prudent to establish whether the timing set or the cam was in fact defective and replace what was needed.
Good to See Ya cranking again Dude!
Sent from my SM-G930T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks, I see you've made a lot of progress yourself...
I got it more that "cranking" too. After rotating cam (and resetting ignition timing) I got it to start and run very smooth (only for 10 seconds). I need to install radiator etc.... but am starting to get excited.
That's very good to hear!
It was sunny and not freezing out today, so rolled it out for first time and let run awhile/start stop etc...
still got plenty to do, but can kind of imagine driving this spring/summer.
NOTE: this is not the permanent battery location
That's Awesome! You must stoked. Oh and I watched your other video on YouTube and now I may have to build one for my John Deere 214. Thanks just what I need is another project. But I think it would be great for when I need to move something heavy on the gravel and/or lawn.
Separate names with a comma.