Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects "Pea Green" the '29 Tudor build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by '52 F-3, Sep 14, 2014.

  1. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    decided to go with an Odyssey PC680 battery after doing some research on HAMB. It seems to small and light, but reviews are great.
    battery box seemed alittle heavy, so I figured it needed a couple holes in a paisley pattern.
    20171013_184917.jpg 20171013_185450.jpg
     
    Tim_with_a_T, Stogy, Bam.inc and 2 others like this.
  2. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 11,935

    loudbang
    Member

    You mean it's not going to be painted green? :)
     
    '52 F-3 and Hotdoggin DaddyO like this.
  3. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,497

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  4. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    lol, you guys are real comedians. But I do paint everything brown or green I suppose. (there is a little off-white in this picture.)
    Getting pretty excited, picked up some fluids............

    20171017_144759.jpg 20171017_144845.jpg
     
  5. I can’t believe I haven’t seen this thread before . You are a true craftsman and artist . I won’t miss any more . Blue
     
    '52 F-3 likes this.
  6. What's the status on the interior? Any thing cool planned?
     
    '52 F-3 and loudbang like this.
  7. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    well, I have lots of ideas... I'm trying not think about it much until I get it running and driving (been without a driving hotrod for a few years now) and stay focused on what needs done first.
    Anyway interior will be kind of traditional with pleats or diamond pattern stitching etc.. on mostly flat panels. Thinking about using some medium brown distressed leather (maybe faux) with cream color vinyl, AND a crazy busy pattern cloth. I'm suspect it will be polarizing, you either love it or hate it :(

    Blue; thanks for nice words.
     
    brEad, Stogy, loudbang and 2 others like this.
  8. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    I've been thinking about dash stuff, and decided i'm going to just make a temp dash to get running/driving... Then I can spend a lot of time this winter on the real thing......ideas below. I kinda am liking the bottom sketch....(it'll have some brown leather and paint, some polished aluminum and the bottom corners upholstered to match door panels etc...)

    looks like my garage dog sneaked a lick of coffee...


    20171021_105507.jpg 20171021_105545.jpg
     
  9. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    took a break from working on the 29, been kinda bummed out engine didn't start.

    Short story is I'm 100% sure ignition timing is correct, I've verified valves closed when piston up etc... but noticed engine never "flooded" while trying to start even though I could see, smell gas in carb. (and seem to crank alittle slow) I noticed carb blowing air out once while cranking, so I checked compression with my thumb and noticed it didn't make much. I watched valve train and seen the intake valve closing as the piston is coming up on compression stroke not before. so I backed off rocker arms and checked compression. builds a ton like it should....

    I can't believe I installed camshaft/valve timing off...... kind of pissed. I've installed many cams/timing chains and don't know what I did. to make worse, I have to raise engine about 4" to get harmonic balancer off, AND to raise the engine that much I have to raise the body off the frame.

    here's the best picture I can find of the timing chain. Is there something about 1956 chevy 265 beside the camshaft notch for oiling that is different than most SBC's?

    I ground this notch in cam before installed and used special freeze plug.....

    hard to see timing marks...

    20160327_102926.jpg 20160410_095514.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
    chryslerfan55, loudbang and JOYFLEA like this.
  10. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,404

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Hang in there Bud! You kick this problems ass! And I'm sure you'll get the right help from the HAMB gurus.
    I'm sorry I cant be of any help though but don't give up....just keep a clear head and keep at it!!
     
  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,858

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    What am I missing that you couldn’t just un bolt the engine from the trans and lift it straight up instead of removing the body?

    Or pull the radiator and grill and go forward and up?

    That motor isn’t shoved nearly far enough back for me to think you’d need to pull the body to remove the motor?
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  12. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,858

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Scrolling back looking at photos of all your doing is pulling the balancer and cam off, shouldn’t you be able to pull the rad and grill and it’s sitting right in front of you?
     
    '52 F-3 likes this.
  13. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    I really wish is would be that easy, I have very little clearance... it's tighter that it looks in pics.

    20171206_112451.jpg 20171206_112635.jpg
    20170121_133641.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
    loudbang and chryslerfan55 like this.
  14. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,858

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Yeah that sucker sits pretty low. I’d take the rad/ grill off, unbolt the trans and with a load leveler on the cherry picker tilt it nose up a little and pull it up and forward out of the frame.

    Might need an extra hand but it’s way less bs than removing the body
     
    loudbang, chryslerfan55 and '52 F-3 like this.
  15. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,350

    97
    Member

    What about : take the front engine mount off and lower the engine in the frame until the balancer will come off ?...but before you do, ..THE TIMING MARKS AND CHAIN LOOK 100% CORRECT in the picture. So re lash the valves on 1 and 6 and check the compression again with you thumb on both..... making sure that its not just the distributor which is installed 180 degrees out.

    When you time the cam the dots aligned at 6 on cam and 12 on crank is the # 6 firing position, you need to turn the crank 360 degrees before you install the distributor...this has caught out many people .
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
    loudbang, Tim, Fabber McGee and 3 others like this.
  16. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,049

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    After you readjust the valves put your finger over #1 spark plug and feel for compression as you turn the motor over , just before top dead center it will blow your finger out and the timeing marks almost line up. Then line up the marks and drop the distributor in on #1 and she should fire up. Then use a timeing light and lock down your dristributor . Years ago I did the same thing. Frank
     
    loudbang and '52 F-3 like this.
  17. I'm looking at the last pic in post 459. I don't recognize the markings on the front of the heads. What are they or what is there casting number....curious about what they are. Tim
     
    '52 F-3 likes this.
  18. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    here's link with very little information on them, and a picture with the casting numbers.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/strange-small-block-chevy-head-casting-mark.1013792/
    if you find out anything, please let me know.... I bought already rebuilt, don't know their history
     
    loudbang likes this.
  19. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    I'm following you guys, I've checked it's not 180 out timing (I tried just incase) I'm going to re-adjust valve lash and check compression again. But i'm thinking something is odd with cam or timing gears still.

    97, that's a great idea about lowering engine to get balancer off..... I'll be looking into that tomorrow.

    thanks to all for replies,
    Gregg
     
  20. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 493

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    The photo shows your timing marks are on the money. I would forget about going to all the trouble of pulling the timing cover to see the same thing you see in that picture. Don't worry about low compression at cranking speed. Performance cams close the valves later than stock cams and often don't make a lot of cranking compression. An engine with the ignition timing way off will often whistle or puff through the intake.
    Do you have spark?
    To be sure your piston is at the top, you can bust the guts out of an old spark plug and tack a bolt or something in the hole sticking out an inch or so. Thread it into the plug hole and rotate the engine by hand until it stops and make a mark on the damper where your timing pointer is. Then rotate the other direction until it stops again and make another mark. TDC is halfway between your new marks and that is where the factory TDC mark on the damper should be. If it isn't, make a new one where it's supposed to be. Then put the distributor back in with the points just starting to open and the rotor pointed at your number one wire on the cap. Also, be sure you wired the cap for the same rotation as the rotor makes. I'm sure you already know this basic stuff, but sometimes the simplest things are the easiest to overlook. I've done a lot of head scratching over the years for some really simple (dumb assed) mistakes.
     
    Tim, loudbang and Stogy like this.
  21. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 493

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    If you have to see the timing marks, let the front of the pan down a bit, pull the water pump and you might be able to slide the cover forward and tip it far enough to see them. But.... you already know they're right.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  22. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 907

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    Not to add another variable to the mix, but I had very similar problems firing my engine for the first time, and it ended up being two things. First, I somehow had the distributor off a tooth or 180 out. There's a great YouTube video where Freiburger shows you how to dead time an engine - the most interesting thing was after he found TDC on #1 compression stroke, he rolled the balancer back 12*, then dropped in the distributor. That way you don't have to screw around with the advance too much once it lights off.

    The second problem I had was that PC680. I don't know if I had a bad one or if it sat around too long, but it wouldn't turn my engine fast enough. Once I switched batteries, no more issues and it fired right up. You'll get it!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    spurgeonforge and loudbang like this.
  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,858

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Ok since this thread gets pretty good traffic maybe you could give us more than “it doesn’t start” and some valve train/ compression trouble shooting that could be a variety of things.

    It’s very possible that it’s a simple tweak but we don’t know what it’s doing.

    Does it crank?
    Does it click?
    Does it try to run!

    I mean throw a guy a polka dotted paisley green and brown bone over here ;)
     
    spurgeonforge, JOYFLEA and loudbang like this.
  24. Gregg - amazing build and skills!

    I know you will get it figured out.
     
  25. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 812

    '52 F-3
    Member

    thanks to all for ideas/support...

    I got to talk with and engine builder friend today and told him my story. He's 99% sure I collapsed the lifters when I initially adjusting rocker arms. He said it's pretty easy todo, maybe just to make me feel better :) When I told him I have 15/20 psi of oil pressure while cranking and no oil coming up push rods, that points to collapsed lifters.

    So next time I'm in the garage, I plan to back off all rocker arms, pull spark plugs and crank engine a couple times a little bit, hoping to pump up hydraulic lifters. then go back and adjust again.

    hopefully I'll have a good update for next post....
     
    spurgeonforge, loudbang, Tim and 3 others like this.
  26. Hope that’s it . That car is a beautiful one and needs to be driven . You did a great job . Blue
     
    '52 F-3 likes this.
  27. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 493

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    I also hope that's it, it will be something simple. Looking forward to the first drive video. Don't let it bum you out, just keep pecking away at it and you'll be cruisin' before you know it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017
    spurgeonforge, loudbang and '52 F-3 like this.
  28. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,350

    97
    Member


    It spit back through the carb when cranking but won't start and run...
    He has shown us a pic of the long block ... cam timed and without the timing cover on, it is correct ....crank key at 2 oclock , cam locating dowel at 3 oclock and marks lined up...this is the #6 firing position.
    Cranking is kinda slow and the motor spitting back, I am now wondering if it is advanced by nearly 1 cylinder on the distributor...... ignition timing can look correct under the cap , but without putting a timing light on it it is hard to eyeball .
    The only other thing I can think of is hydraulic lifters pumping up while cranking ... lash set to tight on dry lifters...loosen them off to zero lash (roll the pushrod , while you tighten until it gets resistance to find zero) and then down half a turn for initial lash..... making sure the valves don't move when you do that....if the valve moves it means the lifters haven't got any oil in them.
     
    '52 F-3 likes this.
  29. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,350

    97
    Member

    Ha I just read the latest posts......I see that your engine builder and I concurr.... he is correct it is easy to collapse them, if they have never been filled with oil...
     
    loudbang and '52 F-3 like this.
  30. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,858

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Yup sounds like you e found your gremlin :)

    97 I went back a few pages looking for any info other than “it won’t start” and didn’t see anything talking about it back firing and etc. must have missed it
     
    loudbang likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2013 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.